Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
Maybe you could drill a hole big enough to weld in and weld from the bottom.
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TIGHTEN PRIMER POCKETS, here's how.
- Thread starter tbrice23
- Start date
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Looks good. Just ordered a 10-pack of 1" chrome steel ball bearings. Will weld one to a plate and see how they work on the large primer pockets. I liked the 3/4" on the small primer pockets, and the 1" increases the diameter in the same ratio as the increase in large primer diameter to small primer diameter.
(.212/.175) ~= (1.0/0.75)
10 of the 1" ball bearings cost $8.69 from Amazon, delivered. Something I can afford.
(.212/.175) ~= (1.0/0.75)
10 of the 1" ball bearings cost $8.69 from Amazon, delivered. Something I can afford.
Oh yeah, it is filet welded on bottom and fused on top.
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I wouldn't use anything bigger than 1" diameter.
One option I thought of that could improve tightening of LR pockets is to start with the 3/4" ball, and then next follow that using the 1" ball bearing. The 3/4" ball will begin to flare the surface perimeter of the primer pocket, and then the 1" ball will be more easily able to improve the tightening of the sidewalls further down into the pocket - without additional case head depression at the edge of the primer pocket.
Those that have used this process will be best able to understand this two-step conceptual process, and how it could work. This is something I will try after I receive, and weld up, the 1" ball bearing 'anvil'.
I like it.
But I have to be carefull not to make the I.D. too small. Lately I've been chucking a RCBS P.P. uniformer in my drill and running it in the pockets just in case. It measures .206" for the large PP uniformer.
But running a double radius inside the PP then reaming would definitely restore the ID deeper.
Yes, I have also overdone it, but similar to your corrective measure, I will run my K&M primer pocket uniforming cutter into the primer pocket (PP). It's a carbide cutter which removes a little brass at the surface of the case head, as necessary.
Actually, I'm leaning towards a little over-tightening as a standard operating practice in order to extend the tightening down further into the PP. Then remove a little brass at the entrance of the PP with the uniforming cutter. This could also be expected to improve the consistency of the PP ID across all cases.
It's another step, and a bit tedious. But the tightening of PPs isn't performed on all cases, so it's not a big burden. Only necessary on the cases where I've overdone throttle pedal force.
Actually, I'm leaning towards a little over-tightening as a standard operating practice in order to extend the tightening down further into the PP. Then remove a little brass at the entrance of the PP with the uniforming cutter. This could also be expected to improve the consistency of the PP ID across all cases.
It's another step, and a bit tedious. But the tightening of PPs isn't performed on all cases, so it's not a big burden. Only necessary on the cases where I've overdone throttle pedal force.
Ball bearing method is good enough for my application but...
Here's another way to do it!!!!!!!!! Wow!
