Primer pockets?
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crkckr
Well-Known Member
Actually, if you use the right Loctite, the stuff works just fine! You want the red, #271 Stud and Bearing Mount. I have bushed primer pockets with the stuff and other than being way too labor intensive, it did work and lasted thru several reloadings. Now, if you want really scary, try putting a crimp on a primed case... with a center punch! Never did it on a loaded case but even a primed case would at least scare the beejeesus out of a body! I've never had one go off... so far. The problem is, I'm so cheap that by the time I put all the effort of decapping, cleaning, trimming, sorting, etc., there's no way I'm going to toss a case unless it's really, really bad! Little cracks don't worry me much! Loose pockets get either the loctite or punch treatment and then it gets shot. THEN it gets tossed into the scrap bin! I shot "seconds" for so long it's almost painful to shoot perfectly good ammo! When I had my reloading business, everything I shot, except test loads, were seconds... neck cracks (in pistols, as long as it doesn't go below the bullet... rifles get the bullet pulled), smeared primers (anyone that loads with a Dillon knows what those are!), corroded brass, basically anything I wouldn't sell. It was either shoot 'em or pull 'em apart and I didn't have time for that. I barely had time to go shoot the darn things. With rifle stuff I'm a bit more picky... but not all *that* much! Never once had a problem. I don't think I could even guess how many rounds like that I've fired. Just use a good stout firearm and you're good to go. Of course, I'm more than just a little crazy, so I don't recommend others do the same as I do!
Cheers,
crkckr
Cheers,
crkckr
Flatbow
Well-Known Member
Yea... no thanks!
Even as expensive as Nosler (I use it for my RUM) and even Lapua (for my CM) brass is I dont think I would be gluing in any primers any time soon!
Even as expensive as Nosler (I use it for my RUM) and even Lapua (for my CM) brass is I dont think I would be gluing in any primers any time soon!
MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
Here is my take. I've scrapped most of my cases over the years for loose pockets. That being said there are a few things you can do to prolong their life.
1. New cases for the first two or three firings should not be max loads. New case heads are as soft as they will ever be and they will flow/stretch easier in the first few firings. Have had primer pockets go south on load #1 from max loads.
2. Before priming I always thoroughly clean each pocket with a rubbing alcohol dampened paper towel to insure there is no residue on the sidewalls of the pocket.
Believe this helps create a "quicker" seal of the primer during pressure build up.
3. Related to the above, after de-priming each pocket is visually checked with a small flashlight for the progression of residue up the pocket sidewall from the pocket bottom. As pockets become looser the residue (usually grey/white color) travels farther from the bottom.
Good shiny brass sides indicate a good seal. Grey residue that reaches up 1/2 way or more shows that your bolt face is in jeopardy and these pockets are already loose. The results of the visual usually correlate with the seating "feel".
4. If primer seats borderline "soft", I use a recapping rod by hand, if I can push it out by hand, I then scrap the brass.
On a side note once I got up to 35 loadings with a 260 and Remington brass. Started losing primer pockets at around 25 loading and to see how far they would go I started the inspection/cleaning regiment. Only 4 of them made it to 35.
My .02,
Randy
1. New cases for the first two or three firings should not be max loads. New case heads are as soft as they will ever be and they will flow/stretch easier in the first few firings. Have had primer pockets go south on load #1 from max loads.
2. Before priming I always thoroughly clean each pocket with a rubbing alcohol dampened paper towel to insure there is no residue on the sidewalls of the pocket.
Believe this helps create a "quicker" seal of the primer during pressure build up.
3. Related to the above, after de-priming each pocket is visually checked with a small flashlight for the progression of residue up the pocket sidewall from the pocket bottom. As pockets become looser the residue (usually grey/white color) travels farther from the bottom.
Good shiny brass sides indicate a good seal. Grey residue that reaches up 1/2 way or more shows that your bolt face is in jeopardy and these pockets are already loose. The results of the visual usually correlate with the seating "feel".
4. If primer seats borderline "soft", I use a recapping rod by hand, if I can push it out by hand, I then scrap the brass.
On a side note once I got up to 35 loadings with a 260 and Remington brass. Started losing primer pockets at around 25 loading and to see how far they would go I started the inspection/cleaning regiment. Only 4 of them made it to 35.
My .02,
Randy
LoneTraveler
Well-Known Member
What kind of primers are you using? I have had primer pockets that Winchester, CCI and Remington would be loose, Federal would fit very snug and sealed good.
I have stayed away from Norma brass for years. Had a box of factory ammo that half the cases had loose primer pockets, To loose to feel safe loading them.
I have stayed away from Norma brass for years. Had a box of factory ammo that half the cases had loose primer pockets, To loose to feel safe loading them.
I'm using CCI primers last shot they still seemed to seal fine but four of the 20 pressed in noticeably easier than the others. I've seen many federal factory loads with a blue or red sealant of some kind on the primers over the years, I have always assumed it was just a water seal, anyone know for sure?
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MNbogboy
Well-Known Member
I use CCI primers almost exclusively but have noticed "fit" differences in them from brick to brick.
As far as brass goes taken from factory loaded ammunition, their recipie for a certain load may actually be a "max" load for an individual rifle. Factory loaded ammo brass may or may not be the same brass as what is sold for reloading brass.
Quality controls keep brass in a range of softness/hardness. Brass hardens as it works, that is why I never start with "max" or "hot" loads. Generally it takes two or more firings to stabilize case capacity anyway so I believe why stress the green brass before it strengthens itself.
Second .02
