Shimming a scope.

[danny lee mccall]

shim the scope

 

[HARPERC]

.....In fact I would have got rid of it years ago if it did not look so nice. I read an article years ago if you got a shooter they really shoot if not tisk tisk......

I'm always looking for a priced right No.1 donor!

 

[WildBillG]

Keep lurking Harper but I'll warn you I'm stubborn. Some thing still tells me I will find a load this gun likes.

 

[HARPERC]

Once you figure out the scope mount issue it may surprise you.

 

[HARPERC]

.....Bill Ruger designed a pretty stick with his No. 1 but they aren't shooters by a long shot. Last one I had, I had to drill the forestock, install a thread insert and run a set screw up against the bottom of the barrel to get rid of the bad harmonics to get it to shoot halfway decent. It's long gone. Too much grief and too heavy.......

We see plenty of bolt guns needing an action trued, a stock replaced, or at least has serious bedding issues, need re-barreled, a trigger job, or issues with mounting hole alignment. We fix them and move forward. Easier generally, as after market fixes are common, and more are skilled in their application.

The No.1's like wise can come in a well assembled piece, or with issues, but frequently some get hung up on the pretty side of the equation.

 

[Swiftkill]

Any of the Burris signature *** align rings are AWESOME. I have almost all of my guns with them on. I have a TC contender in 223 and 4570 and two Burris rings hold them, to death. No shifting and no rotating. I have them on two 300 win mags and they hold to death. In fact, if yo look close at my avatar photo here those are *** align rings on my 220 swift.
Yes, the offsets work. You are not stressing the scope with the burris rings, The elliptical inserts pivot together so the scope tube is always dead straight to the clamping forces. If you try them you will understand how they work. I use the two piece XTR bases with regular *** align rings. I just put a set on my new long range 300 mag and was able to use the two .10 inserts to get a 20 MOA tilt and I am able to get a perfect optical center. PERFECT!.

 

[Alibiiv]

Well after reading my last post to AllmondGrower I'm begining to think I may have a drinking problem. I was trying to say shooting high and even edited it and typed low. Any how I put a shim in between the front screw and recoil lug. Maybe tomorrow I can try it again and see if it helped. If it gets me to dead on just think of how much I will be able to dial for long range.
Sidecarflip you are right thet are very pretty rifles. It is just to bad that is as far as they go. In fact I would have got rid of it years ago if it did not look so nice. I read an article years ago if you got a shooter they really shoot if not tisk tisk.
Mudrunner all my problems started when I changed the scope. Before I had always been able to zero this rifle. When I was placing a shim on the front and had the rail off it is in fact an EGW rail. My best guess although I do not know why now it has some thing to do with the rings.

You are right they Ruger #1 is a very unique and pretty rifle. If you find one that shoots, keep it because you have a very reliable rifle. And if you don't have one that shoots, then you are up for a lot of extra work "in hopes" that you can make it shoot. Glass bedding the fore end where it meets the action is one option. I bought a "HICKS" accurizer for one of the Ruger #1's that I had in 7mm RemMag. It goes between the fore end and the barrel and acts similar to Browning's boss system by changing the harmonics of the barrel by tightening a set screw. As the setscrew is tightened the actual size of the group changes and you can really dial the rifle n with it. But....if you own a Ruger #1 you probably already know about the HICKS. The HICKS will not fix your 10 inches low problem, however if you have other Ruger #1s and want to try one I'll give you a deal with a new one still in the package. PM me with your information.

 

[WildBillG]

I have actually not heard of the Hicks system. It sounds interesting And I don't think my gun needs alot to shoot better. It is shooting 1.25 to 1.5 MOA now. I know the 25-06 can do a lot better my old Tikka did.

 

[Alibiiv]

I have actually not heard of the Hicks system. It sounds interesting And I don't think my gun needs alot to shoot better. It is shooting 1.25 to 1.5 MOA now. I know the 25-06 can do a lot better my old Tikka did.

You might want try Googling Hicks system and find a YouTube, they do work.

 

[HARPERC]

The fore end fixes solve some issue, the Hicks works, strips of tape at the tip can work. Didn't resolve all the issues with this .30-06. Which was Ok as it was bought as a donor. Sent it off to Oregunsmithing for a synthetic replacement, pillar bedded front and rear solved all the issues. To the point I'm struggling to replace the barrel as I originally intended.

The narrow fore end of the 1A, and rounded 1B's, make them difficult to shoot from a bench. Raising the combs also helps immensely.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Here is the easiest and least expensive solution IMO

 

[den]

you probably don't need the heavy duty xtr rings you can get the regular 30 mm burris signature weaver style rings for $50 from amazon I believe that the 30mm come with the +and- 10 moa inserts

 

[WildBillG]

Good to know den as that was not clear on the Burris web site. Thank you for the accurising tips Alibiiv and HarperC I am getting way more help from this thread then I had hoped. As I had said this gun I believe only needs a little masage to shoot a lot better then it is.

 

[Swiftkill]

I have been using the standard 30mm *** aligns. Yes, they come with +10 and -10 inserts. You only need medium height rings for a flat mounted scope, which is the lowest available. It clears all my 50mm OBJ with room for butler creek caps, especially if you use a sunshade, it extends it further down the taper of the barrel. I use the 2 piece bases because I like the access at the loading port and they are much lower than a one piece EGW or similar. The angle (MOA tilt) you get with the inserts depends upon how far apart the rings are. Their chart approximates the moa. The rings should be 5-6 inches apart for approx. 20 MOA. Shown is a 300 win mag long action with a sendero weight barrel. Those are HIGH RINGS because I knew i was going to put a Cant on it. Mediums MIGHT fit but unnecessary. I still have a good cheekweld.