Shimming a scope.

[SidecarFlip]

To answer the question the scope has no zero stop feature. I have the scope mounted in 30mm rings. The rail was designed to fit the ridiculous Ruger#1 set up and thus it is hard to tell if there is a taper. My problem is I can not turn the turret down any more and it is still shooting about 10 or more inches high.

Easy to ascertain if it has a dimensional difference for MOA and I believe you mean EGW not EAB.

Remove the scope and (rail if necessary) and using calipers r a micrometer, measure the backe end and front end. If it's a MOA rail, the front dimension will be less than the rear dimension. EGW's come in 10-20 and 30 MOA cant.

 

[7magcreedmoor]

Easy to ascertain if it has a dimensional difference for MOA and I believe you mean EGW not EAB.

Remove the scope and (rail if necessary) and using calipers r a micrometer, measure the backe end and front end. If it's a MOA rail, the front dimension will be less than the rear dimension. EGW's come in 10-20 and 30 MOA cant.

EABCO makes a picatinny rail overlay for the Ruger No1. That's the mess he is trying to sort out.

 

[Alibiiv]

All things being said I forgot to ask is it the front of the scope that I will need to raise. The reason I ask is I am assuming a 20 MOA rail is slightly taller at the back right.

Just curious, if the rail appears to be higher in the back, is it possible that the rail is on backwards, or can you turn the rail around? Have you installed the scope on another rifle so you know that the scope is functioning properly? Could you have a bad set of rings? A Wheeler scope mounting kit ($100) has a set of mandrels with centers that would help you to determine? There's also a mandrel in the kit that will allow you to lap the rings. Lastly I'd never shim a scope ring, I'd rather place a shim under the rear of the rail where it screws to the action.

 

[WildBillG]

Alibiiv on the Ruger#1 there is no way to get the rail on backwards. Every thing is extremely tapered on their set up. I have had the scope and rings on another rifle and they were fine. I can not remember but I do not believe you can get a shim under this rail. The shim would have to go at the front of the rail to solve my problem. My rifle is shooting 10 inches high at 100yds and I am out of adjustment on the scope. From what I can gather with the help of the good folks on here and the Burris web site I will need their XTR Signature rings. This is assuming I can run their MOA adjustment on the front ring just like the rear ring. These rings have adjustment from 0 to 40 MOA according to Burris.
Thank you understanding what I am trying to say 7magcreedmoor.

 

[Alibiiv]

Alibiiv on the Ruger#1 there is no way to get the rail on backwards. Every thing is extremely tapered on their set up. I have had the scope and rings on another rifle and they were fine. I can not remember but I do not believe you can get a shim under this rail. The shim would have to go at the front of the rail to solve my problem. My rifle is shooting 10 inches high at 100yds and I am out of adjustment on the scope. From what I can gather with the help of the good folks on here and the Burris web site I will need their XTR Signature rings. This is assuming I can run their MOA adjustment on the front ring just like the rear ring. These rings have adjustment from 0 to 40 MOA according to Burris.
Thank you understanding what I am trying to say 7magcreedmoor.

Okay I get it, was trying a basic, common sense approach. Sometimes the simplest remedies are overlooked. Sorry about the shim placement, you're right about shim placement having to be in the front. It seems to me that I've read something about Ruger#1s having a rail issue, however I think it was due to them loosening up.

 

[7magcreedmoor]

Alibiiv on the Ruger#1 there is no way to get the rail on backwards. Every thing is extremely tapered on their set up. I have had the scope and rings on another rifle and they were fine. I can not remember but I do not believe you can get a shim under this rail. The shim would have to go at the front of the rail to solve my problem. My rifle is shooting 10 inches high at 100yds and I am out of adjustment on the scope. From what I can gather with the help of the good folks on here and the Burris web site I will need their XTR Signature rings. This is assuming I can run their MOA adjustment on the front ring just like the rear ring. These rings have adjustment from 0 to 40 MOA according to Burris.
Thank you understanding what I am trying to say 7magcreedmoor.

The ring inserts have 10 moa of offset. If you orient the offsets opposite each other you'll get 20 moa of correction. That will fix your 10 inch problem and get you another 10 inches away from your mechanical limit of your turret.

 

[HARPERC]

...............EABCO makes a picatinny rail overlay for the Ruger No1. That's the mess he is trying to sort out....

.....From what I can find my rail must be the EGW one.

I won't say there aren't problem EABCO No. 1 rails, but mine works fine. The existing quarter rib on my current No. 1 is really solid, but can see where one might not be.

Are you able to move the rings without having clearance problems?

 

[Almondgrower]

If I'm understanding you wildbillg , you need to raise the point of impact UP 9-10" at 100 yds . 20 MOA rail is a very common setup, measure front and rear of rail to confirm it is a rail with built in elevation . If it does , swap it out for a zero MOA rail or one that has half of the amount of MOA built in . It sounds like your rail has too much built in for your combination .Try not to ever shim rings , rail shimming is ok but ring shimming would need to be for a very specific reason and lapping May be needed

 

[Almondgrower]

take to raise the POI about 9 inches. Also I don't

My rifle is shooting 10 inches high at 100yds and

Now I'm confusing myself , lol . In your first post you say u need to raise your poi 9" implying you ar 9" low , now after re reading a more recent post of yours you say it's 10" high . I'll go with your more recent post . If that's the case then I'd bet a zero MOA rail will solve your problem . I think I read a post that said you had a 10 MOA rail now , if so and I have it flipped then try the 20moa rail . If you do in fact have mounts like 7magcreedmore is implying then he's correct and that could be your issue before the rail issue . Measure everything with calipers the way it's mounted now then comaire what you need to adj/swap out from there .

 

[MudRunner2005]

Alibiiv on the Ruger#1 there is no way to get the rail on backwards. Every thing is extremely tapered on their set up. I have had the scope and rings on another rifle and they were fine. I can not remember but I do not believe you can get a shim under this rail. The shim would have to go at the front of the rail to solve my problem. My rifle is shooting 10 inches high at 100yds and I am out of adjustment on the scope. From what I can gather with the help of the good folks on here and the Burris web site I will need their XTR Signature rings. This is assuming I can run their MOA adjustment on the front ring just like the rear ring. These rings have adjustment from 0 to 40 MOA according to Burris.
Thank you understanding what I am trying to say 7magcreedmoor.

Now that I know it's a Ruger #1... I hate to break it to you bud, but it sounds like you're barrel and receiver face are out of square and your barrel has pressure on it (or your barrel could be slightly bent), causing it to shoot upwards. Have a smith look into this rifle ASAP, before wasting anymore time or ammo trying to sight this rifle in. If this same setup worked on another Ruger #1, but not on this one, and you can't get zero, take it to a smith. Might need a new barrel put on it, and have the receiver trued up and squared.

 

[WildBillG]

AlmondGrower you are right to be confused by my original post. I said I was shooting low then said I wanted to raise my POI. Where I wanted to ask how to make the POI lower. If shimming the base is ok I will shim the front of it. This will save me 130 bucks on the Burris rings. Does any one have an idea of how much of a shim I will need.

 

[Almondgrower]

No prob , just trying to help u sort this out , .001 = 1 MOA at 100 yds ( very roughly , lol ) , if you need 10" @ 100 then try .010 , this is a very foggy memory from a calculation I did long ago . It's a starting point at best but let's just say u did get 10" and were on at 100 yds then you would still be maxed on your turret so you may want to go past the point of aim you need then ( dial back from there so have a bit of adjustability) I would max out at .020 at most . I would use this for testing only then as soon as you are able I'd try to figure out the situation so no shims are needed

 

[SidecarFlip]

Bill Ruger designed a pretty stick with his No. 1 but they aren't shooters by a long shot. Last one I had, I had to drill the forestock, install a thread insert and run a set screw up against the bottom of the barrel to get rid of the bad harmonics to get it to shoot halfway decent. It's long gone. Too much grief and too heavy.

 

[WildBillG]

Well after reading my last post to AllmondGrower I'm begining to think I may have a drinking problem. I was trying to say shooting high and even edited it and typed low. Any how I put a shim in between the front screw and recoil lug. Maybe tomorrow I can try it again and see if it helped. If it gets me to dead on just think of how much I will be able to dial for long range.
Sidecarflip you are right thet are very pretty rifles. It is just to bad that is as far as they go. In fact I would have got rid of it years ago if it did not look so nice. I read an article years ago if you got a shooter they really shoot if not tisk tisk.
Mudrunner all my problems started when I changed the scope. Before I had always been able to zero this rifle. When I was placing a shim on the front and had the rail off it is in fact an EGW rail. My best guess although I do not know why now it has some thing to do with the rings.