If it is an HS-T scope, then it came with a small plastic bag of U-shaped brass shims that you install that allow you to set your own custom zero-stop.I am sure my scope has no form of zero stop. All you do is lift turret dial and turn it to zero on index line. How ever I will look more closely at it to be sure and find the box to get model for sure. The rail I put on it I am sure was made by E Arthur Browm for the Ruger #1 rifle. Last night while looking it over it appears as though when the scope is level in rear ring that it does not touch the front one. I put a small shim in the saddle of front ring and the scope does not rock. The rings a matched set from the package they came in. From what I remember they are Talley's with adjustable windage in them.
There's a reason why Leupold dovetail rings and bases are not very popular anymore...I have put a 10 thousand shim under the scope on the rear ring for years to get a 100 zero and according to Leupold it is ok up to 12 thousands but now I just use Tally rings with a 20 moa built in
If you put a rail on it, do not shim anything. Let the rail do its job like it was designed to do. A good quality rail should not give you any issues. I recommend EGW (Evolution Gun Works).All things being said I forgot to ask is it the front of the scope that I will need to raise. The reason I ask is I am assuming a 20 MOA rail is slightly taller at the back right.
I've EXPERMENTED with SHIMS, if you're OUT THERE Friend where you need that much Elevation, you'd best find a LR Smith or a helluva good Machinest, and Invest in have a Custom Base & Rings MADE to suit your NEEDS! That's what I did.Contrary to Fuddlore, you don't EVER shim a scope or scope mount...EVER! It puts stress on the optic and/or mount in wrong places. I've replaced LOTS of optics for customers that heard it was recommended, and it screwed their optics up.