Reloading to replicate another caliber?

[Will.284]

Reading this thread agin at 4 am , instead of pushing something to the maximum and possibly getting hurt why not get 2 of the next caliber up. Why 2 of them - they won't get lonely that way and 2 is better than 1 and it's an even number!! This theory get me in trouble sometimes

 

[ARlife4me]

Reading this thread agin at 4 am , instead of pushing something to the maximum and possibly getting hurt why not get 2 of the next caliber up. Why 2 of them - they won't get lonely that way and 2 is better than 1 and it's an even number!! This theory get me in trouble sometimes

I like that logic! I couldn't let my 7-08 get lonely so I got a 7saum. I have very few calibers with only 1 cartridge (5.56/223, 243win, 338lm & 45-70).

 

[Will.284]

I like that logic! I couldn't let my 7-08 get lonely so I got a 7saum. I have very few calibers with only 1 cartridge (5.56/223, 243win, 338lm & 45-70).

Good man!! I've lost count of rifles/pistols per caliber but I do count them on occasion to make sure they haven't reproduced. What's bad is my wife will bring home a stray once in a while so I then have to get it a friend for company!! Lmao!!

 

[Will.284]

The ar thing really gets me into a mess as I've started doing 80% lowers. I have a hard time letting them sit in built

 

[highfinblue]

I showed my wife a Midway ad the other day of an O/U shotgun in its own case and told my wife she could get me this if she wanted to. I was just messing with her, but she asked me how much it was, and I had no idea, so I told her it was probably around 2K, let's just say I got the look lol. I remember the first small caliber I reloaded for. It was a .204 Ruger, and I went through my standard practice back then of increasing powder a half grain at a time. After the first few series I pulled the trigger, and I knew when it went off it was different. I was able to lift the bolt, but it was super heavy. I can't remember what the brass or primer looked like, but I knew it was way too hot. I called my gun guy, and he quickly let me know 1/10th grain increment increases at the most 2/10ths for small guns were maximum. Fortunately for me it was a cheap lesson, but most of us know some folks don't get the second chance. He was also the guy that told me if I wanted more out of a cartridge than it was made for to step up to the next one. For any inexperienced out there, don't be afraid to ask questions, especially on issues like this one.

 

[Ranger Rick]

I see your angle and you do hear people say "______ cartridge (with smaller case capacity) replicates the performance of a larger cartridge"
I load for best performance. If max performance is similar to factory ammo of a larger cartridge, so be it. I buy guns like I buy tools. They are job specific. Not breaking concrete with a framing hammer.

As a retired carpenter, I agree. And, a jack hammer is not the best tool for rebar reinforced concrete.

 

[JAYgs8163]

Amazing how some just lack common sense.

 

[NotLongRange]

Yes, you're absolutely right! I see a lot of people trying to push the outer limits of a 280 Ackley to get to 7mm Mag velocities. My question has always been "why don't you just by a 7mm Magnum?".

Now I see a lot of people doing the same thing with the 7 PRC and 28 Nosler…

 

[FEENIX]

We all have varying experiences, preferences, and intended purposes. I will load whatever I want on my set-up. I am heavy for a caliber guy. But one thing I will never compromise is safety. There is no substitute for safety because Murphy does not discriminate.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Under 60grs of powder, only go up .2grs of powder, Cases over 60 cases you can go up .5grs at a time. Besure to get them in order, and not mix them up. Set up and index as to which load is where and start at the low powder load. A great many years ago and no guidance on 70gr case I moved up .1 at a time. I was going into unexplored area for me at that time. I also learned about temp sensitive powder. That's where I almost got into trouble. Never cross that bridge again. If I use temp sensitive powders, work up a load in the summer time when the powder is at it's max in velocity change. If it's cold it's less chamber pressure, and the velocity is down. There only two powder that I use the are temp sensitive. W760 and IMR 4064. Both were developed in hot weather. W760 change as much as 1.42fps per degree of temp, and IMR4064 change about 0.45fps change per degree. The balance of my powder are H powders 4350, 4831 & sc, 4895, 1000, and Retumbo

 

[ARlife4me]

We all have varying experiences, preferences, and intended purposes. I will load whatever I want on my set-up. I am heavy for a caliber guy. But one thing I will never compromise is safety. There is no substitute for safety because Murphy does not discriminate.

If 1 forgoes reloading safety, then might as well forgoe firearm safety! Safety should be paramount!

This is me agreeing with you.

 

[Lee Goodwin]

One replication that comes to mind is 277 fury in a 270 win. Which sounds kind of boring but if you're bored. Over bore.?
Anyway, maybe hodgdon super performance powder in a well built 30.06....trying to squeeze an extra 100 to"200" fps out of the 30.06...?
I goofed around with super performance using, then, published loads, but, it kicked hard and wasn't accurate and scared me.
It really isn't worth it.

 

[Mike Matteson]

One replication that comes to mind is 277 fury in a 270 win. Which sounds kind of boring but if you're bored. Over bore.?
Anyway, maybe hodgdon super performance powder in a well built 30.06....trying to squeeze an extra 100 to"200" fps out of the 30.06...?
I goofed around with super performance using, then, published loads, but, it kicked hard and wasn't accurate and scared me.
It really isn't worth it.

That's part of load development, Finding out what works, and what doesn't work. Just shoot 200fps faster doesn't get it. There needs to be a reason behind the increase in velocity. Me I have several rifles that I use for hunting. If possible I get them to 3200 to 3300fps velocity. Got to group under 1/2" @ 100yds, and hold a 3" group @ 500yds. I generally use a 2x8 or 7 duplex leupold scopes on my rifles. At the higher powder I can size up and animual in the scope at the top powder to determine the range of the animal out 500yds, I do two thinks, I can determine the range of the animal and where to hold on the animal. I develop it a long time ago. It doesn't make much differents in the drop if the bullet is at the same velocity and of the same type or design.
So I can look thru the scope and see what the range is and where to hold the crosshairs. Being is a duplex type of scope, I can raised the cross up to adjust for range. I only went to 500yds with that system of judging range and hold. I did that n the days of no range finders or they so bad, it made bad look good. It's quick and doesn't make you change from range finder to rifle and scope. Then reacquire the animal in the rifle scope. Just have to besure that the scope is turned up to max powder.
Part of this is I built frames and targets with the top of the paint target to the bottom of the target. To the chest size of the animals I going to hunt. Then I used the scope on full power to see how it fit inside the scope. So the different distances, I would change my hold or crosshairs to a different spot on the animal depending on how it was showning up. Did shooting at those targets at those ranges to verify the hold and where the bullets were hitting.
Bottom line is I could take out any of my rilfes and not have to determine what my velocity is and where to hold the rifle on the animal. I am shooting @ 3200fps to 3300fps, and how much was that drop. I was shooting one or about one veloicty so the drop was all about the same. That was before all the scopes that can be adjusted for elevation and windage. Smiple and quick. I still use it today.

 

[wallhangergun]

I like to start with crimped factory loads that will live in the magazine most of the time and sight in with those- "cold gun", because it's the first shot that counts. I hunt elk- often in the timber- so that's a 30/06 with 180/220 or 7mm mag with 175 grain bullets. Then I try to make accurate (enough- 1"@100yds) handloads which regulate to the same point of impact with lighter cheaper bullets at the same velocity so I can practice with less wear and tear on myself and the equipment. Then practice under realistic conditions, leaning against a tree (is best) resting on a fence post, from a shooting stick, sitting, offhand, kneeling...get to be good with the gun, used to the trigger, consistent with gun-mount...the longest shot I ever made was 250 yards -on an antelope, from the top of a fence post. I remember the old adage, "Those who don't know how to hunt have to know how to shoot."