Reloading to replicate another caliber?

And before anyone says I can carry a 1911.... I can, but sometimes you go to Wal Mart at 10:30pm in gym shorts and I don't need the ladies chasing me around trying to score my digits. ;)

I get power and energy and all that, but don't matter if you can't hit with it. My dad is almost 80, and is still an absolute menance with a 22LR. Couldn't hit the side of his house with a Glock, but a squirrel at 30 yards sitting on a limb is dead meat.
I actually laughed at your Wal-Mart at 10:30! When I retired from the AF we lived in Florida, where a T-shirt, shorts, and flipflops are too many clothes. Hence why we carried Ruger LCP's there. Now in Nebraska in the winter you can conceal a 44. Not that I do

Tell your dad not to sweat the Glock accuracy, they are an accuired taste. I was horrible with one until my uncle who is in LE, gave me some pointers. When it comes to polymer framed guns, you have to try several. You know the triggers on a typical 22 are pretty decent, that is probably a lot of it.
 
Now, I am guilty of light loading, primarily cast bullets, for money savings, less recoil, less wear and tear on the rifle, and simply…..just for the hell of it! 😜 memtb
I have a bunch of old car batteries, in the qounset. I should get around to breaking them down and getting into casting, some target loads in the GP100 or Super Blackhawk might be fun.
 
I have a bunch of old car batteries, in the qounset. I should get around to breaking them down and getting into casting, some target loads in the GP100 or Super Blackhawk might be fun.

You'll need a bit of tin and antimony to add to that lead…..but, casting/shooting is very satisfying. It was much easier when wheel weights were lead/tin/antimony were available and free or cheap.

If you kill some big game with your cast bullets……all the better! memtb
 
To each their own, but we all have been in the debates. A bench guy is going to want something different than a hunter and within the hunting crowd there will be variants as well. I usually opt to load a heavier bullet than lighter, so I already accept my velocity will be lower. I also will pick a slower node if it is across a wider band than a faster one. I've purchased specific guns for their shorter barrels, or had others cut down for running suppressed. Each of these reasons either independently or together mean I am typically running at velocities lower than what the caliber 'could do'. Safety, components and wear/tear are all factors in why I don't chase the 'next caliber up' speeds. To me, unless you are trying to kill something at a very extended range for a given caliber, the effective range is usually just a little more rotation of the dial, a little more adjustment for wind to make contact.
 
You'll need a bit of tin and antimony to add to that lead…..but, casting/shooting is very satisfying. It was much easier when wheel weights were lead/tin/antimony were available and free or cheap.

If you kill some big game with your cast bullets……all the better! memtb
Well if I get into it, I'll holler at you!
 
To each their own, but we all have been in the debates. A bench guy is going to want something different than a hunter and within the hunting crowd there will be variants as well. I usually opt to load a heavier bullet than lighter, so I already accept my velocity will be lower. I also will pick a slower node if it is across a wider band than a faster one. I've purchased specific guns for their shorter barrels, or had others cut down for running suppressed. Each of these reasons either independently or together mean I am typically running at velocities lower than what the caliber 'could do'. Safety, components and wear/tear are all factors in why I don't chase the 'next caliber up' speeds. To me, unless you are trying to kill something at a very extended range for a given caliber, the effective range is usually just a little more rotation of the dial, a little more adjustment for wind to make contact.
Good points on the slower, wider node.
 
I have a bunch of old car batteries, in the qounset. I should get around to breaking them down and getting into casting, some target loads in the GP100 or Super Blackhawk might be fun.
Just a tip. Unless those are old batteries, you won't get a lot of lead out of them. My local NAPA will give me $15.00 to recycle batteries. Then buy lead on E-Bay. NAPA only lets me recycle two batteries at a time.
 
I reload for accuracy. Then the hot rod part of me comes out at times and push it a little harder if accuracy stayson certain rifles. But trying to make a 308 or a 6.5 creed fast, is pointless.

nothing around here is stock, trucks, guns, tractors etc lol. My 3/4 ton truck stock made 325hp, now makes 1520 last time I had it on a dyno. But It sure is fun to drive when we go out to eat at times, and it's obviously more dangerous to drive now.
 
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Over the years I have read many stories about people hurting themselves, a bystander or destroying their firearm in pursuit of the absolute maximum velocity for that caliber and a particular weight bullet. If a published or slightly over, X caliber and X bullet weight at X velocity is not cutting it and you push it, why? Why not just buy a firearm in a cartridge that does that at published loads? IE, pushing a 308 to risky levels, when you could just get a 300WM?

On the flip side, I have been shooting pistols at a range and had people comment on a load that has a bit of a "bark", and asked what load I was shooting. And when I tell them it is a published but below MAX (Hodgdon, Nosler, Sierra, Speer, Hornady manual load), they ask why I load so hot for practice. Well if I wanted 380 performance out of a 9mm, or 40S&W performance from a 100mm, or 38special performance out of a 357, I would have just bought one those calibers. Also, you should practice with what you are going to use to defend yourself.

So why do we load trying to duplicate a caliber that already exists?

I reload for the savings (not $ wise but in rounds fired), which are not as great as they once were, the enjoyment of it, or for accuracy that I am not getting from shelf ammo.

There are legit reasons, your modern gun is much stronger than those that the caliber originally came in (45 Colt). Or the original chambered guns had a chamber blueprint error, hampering pressure levels, but factory loads have to be loaded to be safe in the short freebored rifles that exist (6.8 SPC I vs II). Or you are restricted by platform (AR15).
Do you mean cartridge or caliber? Reloading doesn't change a caliber.
 
Well if I get into it, I'll holler at you!

I'm certainly no expert……pretty "Neanderthal"! I've done very little over the last 10 years or so……started back around '72. Though a while back, I did start powder coating my bullets, which in my opinion, is the "only" way go!

Lately I've cast only for my Marlin 45-70, and my S&W 460. But, have cast for .270 Win., .30 calibers, .338 WM., 38/357, .375 H&H, 44 Special/Mag., and the aforementioned 45-70 and 460.

I don't get into exotic alloys, strictly use wheel weights. If you are considering getting into casting there is a forum "Cast Boolits (https://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?8-Cast-Boolits) that cover the range from raw beginners to the expert competitive shooters!

And, I can try to help as well! memtb
 
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I'm certainly no expert……pretty "Neanderthal"! I've done very little over the last 10 years or so……started back around '72. Though a while back, I did start powder coating my bullets, which in my opinion, is the "only" way go!

Lately I've cast only for my Marlin 45-70, and my S&W 460. But, have cast for .270 Win., .30 calibers, .338 WM., 38/357, .375 H&H, 44 Special/Mag., and the aforementioned 45-70 and 460.

I don't get into exotic alloys, strictly use wheel weights. If you are considering getting into casting there is a forum "Cast Boolits (https://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?8-Cast-Boolits) that cover the range from raw beginners to the expert competitive shooters!

And, I can try to help as well! memtb
I was thinking 45auto, heavy 44, and heavy 50cal muzzle loader.
 
Just a tip. Unless those are old batteries, you won't get a lot of lead out of them. My local NAPA will give me $15.00 to recycle batteries. Then buy lead on E-Bay. NAPA only lets me recycle two batteries at a time.
Might be easier in the long run. Apparently there is some nasty stuff in newer batteries. They are as heavy as batteries back in the day, but I understand that it may not be "just" lead, some research is going to be needed.
 
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