Need to Crimp with another die

[Varmint Hunter]

I come from the opposite side of the street from Bean. I've never crimped anything in 40yrs and I have some exceptionally accurate rifles/loads. The only exception for me was my 45-70 and that probably didn't need to be crimped either.

However - Bean has got me test crimping cases for the "Hammer bullets" which have very little bearing surface in contact with case necks. So far, I have seen some improvements in shot-to-shot consistency and a slight increase in velocity by crimping "Hammer bullets" into the case necks.

One thing I realize by reading the words of accomplished shooters is that there are many ways to get to the end of the road. I'd suggest that you work on the most basic methods and move forward there.

Good luck

 

[105Coues]

I would not crimp unless you have to. I have never crimped those and been shooting the 300 a loooooong time. Like was mentioned there are many ways to the same place, was always easier for me not to crimp them. Good luck

 

[ButterBean]

I would not crimp unless you have to. I have never crimped those and been shooting the 300 a loooooong time. Like was mentioned there are many ways to the same place, was always easier for me not to crimp them. Good luck

folks like make me smile

 

[Mike D Texas]

folks like make me smile

Bean can you show some pictures of how much you crimp with the Hammers? I used to crimp everything before a started using bushing dies but it sure seemed to be hard on the brass. Always left a ring at the ends of the case neck.

Maybe I was crimping too much?

 

[john k]

I have been loading, shooting, and hunting for many years and only crimped when loading for my BAR's. However, talking to Steve (Hammer) and ordering some Hammers, I listened to Bean's YouTube channel and reached out to him for advice and help, I ordered a FCD die and will begin crimping. Bean was helpful and more than willing to help. If you haven't yet, check out his channel. I enjoy this forum and have learned quite a bit from seasoned shooters/loaders. Sometimes we get set in our ways (including myself) and miss out on some great advice. For me, it's a continual Learning process due to my never being content. I thoroughly enjoy hunting/loading/shooting along with this forum. Thanks

 

[flassen]

Waiting for Butterbean's photos...

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Since I started crimping Hammer bullets, I've been using a "noticeable" crimp. If you look at some of the military .223 ammo you can plainly see the factory crimp. That is what my ammo looks like.
I set the seating depth so that one of the parabolic recesses (or whatever you call them) is under the case mouth. This allows the FCD to easily crimp the case in a visible & meaningful way.

This is just the way I've been testing and so far it has improved things a bit. I believe that most other shooters are crimping on the bullet shaft itself rather then in a groove. I've also had good luck without crimping. The 30Nosler group I posted (152H & H1000) that went into .340" at 400yds was not crimped because I don't have a crimp die for the 30Nosler.

Overall, I think crimping with the Hammers is a good idea and I don't see a downside to doing it. You just have to experiment with crimping and see what works best for you.

Thanks to Bean, I now own 6 new Lee FCDs. :>)

 

[dougduey]

Bean taught me to crimp when I first started reloading almost 8 years ago.
Below is directly from the Lee Load Manual. It explains that the crimp provides a uniform start pressure just like seating a bullet to the lands. Richard Lee goes on to state that this is why factory ammunition is crimped (because they have to be seated to a depth that works in all SAAMI spec firearms and can have a consistent uniform starting pressure when fired).

 

[ButterBean]

Bean can you show some pictures of how much you crimp with the Hammers? I used to crimp everything before a started using bushing dies but it sure seemed to be hard on the brass. Always left a ring at the ends of the case neck.

Maybe I was crimping too much?

 

[flassen]

Thanks for sharing Butterbean.

 

[ButterBean]

Thanks for sharing Butterbean.

This works on all bullets not just Hammers, Start at the 1/8th turn and work up from there to a half turn if you need to

 

[martinakl]

Thank You
What is IIWY
Any thoughts on the Norma VS Peterson Long brass
Or once again don't complicate it and just go with the Norma for Now.

The Peterson 300 long brass is what I run lately. Makes sense to me to have a little less brass stretch upon your first firing. I can't tell a difference when I chamber it. Last I knew, it's available at grafs.com.

For me, I'd buy any of these: ADG, Peterson (long or short), or Lapua. Whatever you can get your hands on.

 

[Teri Anne]

I come from the opposite side of the street from Bean. I've never crimped anything in 40yrs and I have some exceptionally accurate rifles/loads. The only exception for me was my 45-70 and that probably didn't need to be crimped either.

However - Bean has got me test crimping cases for the "Hammer bullets" which have very little bearing surface in contact with case necks. So far, I have seen some improvements in shot-to-shot consistency and a slight increase in velocity by crimping "Hammer bullets" into the case necks.

One thing I realize by reading the words of accomplished shooters is that there are many ways to get to the end of the road. I'd suggest that you work on the most basic methods and move forward there.

Good luck

The only ones that I have ever crimped are those that go into tubular magazines for lever action rifles. If it has a box magazine crimping is not really needed, but to each their own.

 

[ButterBean]

The only ones that I have ever crimped are those that go into tubular magazines for lever action rifles. If it has a box magazine crimping is not really needed, but to each their own.

That's your opinion and your entitled to it but the LEE FCD has been proven to be beneficial, The military crimps everything for a reason