Reloading calipers?

[Tiny Tim]

I have a Hornady digital caliper and an Igaging. They both work, but the Hornady will sometimes forget the zero. And I have to re-zero it with the comparator body or anvil. Sometimes I don't immediately notice it's done this.

That could be problematic if you didn't catch it during set up. A good reminder to check things multiple times throughout your reloading process.

 

[ntsqd]

I nearly always check zero on calipers, dial or digital, before every measurement. If they have left my hand, zero gets checked before the next measurement. I was trained to do that and it has become habit, one that I think is a good one to have.

Read on for a bit of a bio, maybe it adds context to my posts:

I'm not a Journeyman Machinist, I don't have the depth of training for that as that properly is years of apprenticeship. I did work as the "special projects" machinist/fabricator in a racing engines machine shop and under a retired Tool & Die machinist in a Vintage Racing & Touring car restoration/preparation shop during my undergrad years and for both on occasion since earning my Engineering degree. I think that I was about 7 or 8 when I made my first metal lathe project. That was more than a few decades ago.

 

[Jud96]

Mitutoyo would be the best in my opinion. But what do I use? I use a set of $18 digital calipers from Harbor Freight. My Dad uses the same set and has had his for 3-4 years and they work fine to this day. Mine are very repeatable and I don't think you can go wrong for the price. I use Mitutoyo calipers when I'm machining, but the Harbor Freight ones work great for just measuring trim length, CBTO, and headspace on the shoulder.

 

[Mikecr]

That's right Jud96.
So given reloading bench measurement costs, the money needs to go where higher precision than calipers is actually needed. For me that's been Indicators & ball & blade mics & setup jigs for them.

 

[Overkill338]

I have a Hornady digital caliper and an Igaging. They both work, but the Hornady will sometimes forget the zero. And I have to re-zero it with the comparator body or anvil. Sometimes I don't immediately notice it's done this.

I have to say, my Spi never has to be zeroed.