Recoil solution

[Dragoon300]

I thought I would suggest an item that a partner of mine came up with. I use it whenever I shoot a nasty hard kicking weapon from the bench. It totally eliminates felt recoil allowing you to concentrate on the basics without fear of being whacked. It can be used in many ways, and for many things related to shooting and hunting. All in all it is a nice inexpensive piece of kit to have with you. We never had the time to get it to the market, but I do still have some in the package for $30.00 if you or anyone would be interested. At least it gives you another option that works well on the range, and can be used in the field with some imagination.

 

[Orange Dust]

One thing that doesn't get a lot of press is blast. Blast really makes recoil seem much worse than it actually is. A 300RUM with a 26" barrel has enough of it to really get your attention. A 30-378 seems like 10X more. Brakes make it even worse. Increasing barrel length is the best answer even though that decreases muzzle pressure and you lose some of the effectiveness of the brake. They also have high recoil speed. They kick hard and FAST, also lowering the comfort rate shooting the thing. You can change this somewhat with powder burn rate and bullet weight. Slowest powders have lower recoil speed, but usually more recoil since you are burning more of it. They also tend to have the most muzzle pressure, which adds to blast and the effectiveness of the brake. Lighter bullets have less recoil but faster recoil speed. You can use this as a basic guide to play around with your load and address what seems to bother you most. Make sure the stock fits you well. Consult a good gunfitter. Then you have to actually shoot the thing often enough to get past the rest. Big fast guns kick hard and fast, its not going away in a rifle that is light enough to carry all day unless you are one strong cookie. You can learn to shoot it very well, and the reward is the thing is an absolute hammer for a long ways out.

 

[B1s BmagX2]

Like Brush4646 said take a look at what Witt Machine has to offer. I've had great results with their breaks on everything from 22-250 to 378 Weatherby.
[h4][/h4]

 

[Orange Dust]

I thought I would suggest an item that a partner of mine came up with. I use it whenever I shoot a nasty hard kicking weapon from the bench. It totally eliminates felt recoil allowing you to concentrate on the basics without fear of being whacked. It can be used in many ways, and for many things related to shooting and hunting. All in all it is a nice inexpensive piece of kit to have with you. We never had the time to get it to the market, but I do still have some in the package for $30.00 if you or anyone would be interested. At least it gives you another option that works well on the range, and can be used in the field with some imagination. View attachment 246202View attachment 246203

Really good way to break a stock on a big magnum looks like to me.

 

[jarnold37]

Good day everyone:
This is my first post ever although I have Beene eating posts on this site for a couple of yearrs.
I have been shooting and hunting since I was a kid and also reloading. I have many firearms but this post is for advice.
Some years ago I purchased a 700 Remington Moutain SS rifle in 300 RUM for an anticipated bear hunt that never materialized.
I am normally not recoil sensitive having shot calibers up to 416 magnum with no issues.
This rifle has the nastiest recoil I have ever experienced! In an effort to tame it somewhat a radial brake and Limbsaver recoil pad replaced the stock pad.
Very little improvement.
This rifle weighs 8.6 lbs unloaded w scope and the thin barrel is threaded 5x28 with a diameter around .650. I am looking for a recommendation on what brake will settle the recoil down some more. From what I am seeing from the experts here, APA seems to be
the most recommended. What say you?

There are sacrifices that can be made that may solve one problem but sometimes will create a different problem. In wanting to shoot longer distances, I realized I needed more remaining energy at those longer distances. Thus bigger capacity cartridges were needed. The recoil became a problem and made it harder to shoot accurately, remember this is long range hunting. I decided something needed to change because a clean shot without any sign of flinch became paramount. Most hunters count the ease of carrying and lightweight as their number one priority. Well,with me, I started hunting with heavier rifles. Yes it involved a sacrifice, Yes-it makes it more difficult to pack, but weight is the best way to reduce primary recoil-which is the opposite reaction of the energy expended to start the bulletin its travel. Secondary recoil is likened to jet propulsion, as the gases blow out the muzzle it pushes the rifle rearward. I tried muzzle brakes and they helped reduce the secondary recoil, but they drastically increase the noise level to the shooter. I use both and I always wear ear protection no matter what, even when shooting with no brake. But if listening while hunting is important, and you dont want to use ear protection then weight becomes your friend. The difference in a 7 lb rifle and a 14 lb rifle is very noticeable. But arranging priorities and sacrifices seems to come into factor. The only advantage to a light rifle is it is easier to carry

 

[Dragoon300]

On the contrary, the nylon straps absorb all of the energy without shock. I have used it without any issues whatsoever.

 

[wbm]

Ross Schuler muzzle brakes. You can pay a lot more but not get any better. He makes first rate brakes!

About

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rossbrakes.com

 

[Citified]

This is all good input. I am not into the strap option, just saying. I have hunted with unbraked heavier rifles for years and don't mind the weight. I have a couple of rifles with brakes for bench work but don't hunt with those. This rifle needs a brake and as previously stated I am not normally recoil sensitive. It is getting one. Today I will verify the thread pitch to be sure it is US and not metric. This rifle action was trued, lugs cut and reheadspaced early on. Jewel trigger which I like. The smith selected the original radial brake which is useless.
I am aware of the back blast from a side ported brake and while obnoxious to nearby shooters, it doesn't bother me.
I wear hearing protection while in the field.
Don't want to go deaf!

 

[George Dean]

Good day everyone:
This is my first post ever although I have Beene eating posts on this site for a couple of yearrs.
I have been shooting and hunting since I was a kid and also reloading. I have many firearms but this post is for advice.
Some years ago I purchased a 700 Remington Moutain SS rifle in 300 RUM for an anticipated bear hunt that never materialized.
I am normally not recoil sensitive having shot calibers up to 416 magnum with no issues.
This rifle has the nastiest recoil I have ever experienced! In an effort to tame it somewhat a radial brake and Limbsaver recoil pad replaced the stock pad.
Very little improvement.
This rifle weighs 8.6 lbs unloaded w scope and the thin barrel is threaded 5x28 with a diameter around .650. I am looking for a recommendation on what brake will settle the recoil down some more. From what I am seeing from the experts here, APA seems to be
the most recommended. What say you?

I suggest you try Limbsaver recoil pads. He has some youtube videos on how to trim to fit, or you can ship your stock to him. That and a good brake should do it for you.

 

[azarcher10x]

Good day everyone:
This is my first post ever although I have Beene eating posts on this site for a couple of yearrs.
I have been shooting and hunting since I was a kid and also reloading. I have many firearms but this post is for advice.
Some years ago I purchased a 700 Remington Moutain SS rifle in 300 RUM for an anticipated bear hunt that never materialized.
I am normally not recoil sensitive having shot calibers up to 416 magnum with no issues.
This rifle has the nastiest recoil I have ever experienced! In an effort to tame it somewhat a radial brake and Limbsaver recoil pad replaced the stock pad.
Very little improvement.
This rifle weighs 8.6 lbs unloaded w scope and the thin barrel is threaded 5x28 with a diameter around .650. I am looking for a recommendation on what brake will settle the recoil down some more. From what I am seeing from the experts here, APA seems to be
the most recommended. What say you?

I'd recommend LR Customs for a brake. My rifle is a stock 300 RUM SPS, and I can shoot it all day compared to my 30-06. lrcustomsinc.com

 

[Orange Dust]

This is all good input. I am not into the strap option, just saying. I have hunted with unbraked heavier rifles for years and don't mind the weight. I have a couple of rifles with brakes for bench work but don't hunt with those. This rifle needs a brake and as previously stated I am not normally recoil sensitive. It is getting one. Today I will verify the thread pitch to be sure it is US and not metric. This rifle action was trued, lugs cut and reheadspaced early on. Jewel trigger which I like. The smith selected the original radial brake which is useless.
I am aware of the back blast from a side ported brake and while obnoxious to nearby shooters, it doesn't bother me.
I wear hearing protection while in the field.
Don't want to go deaf!

You never said how long the barrel is or I missed it. Not really talking about noise, concussion from blast. My 30-378 would knock my hat and muffs off on every shot. Watch the angle of the ports. My RUM isn't nearly like that but it will get your attention if shooting prone. It is impressive for others to watch you shoot prone in dry conditions. To the shooter it is worse than shooting a muzzleloader, only dust and debris. So much for "No ports on the bottom"!!!

 

[Wolf01]

I thought I would suggest an item that a partner of mine came up with. I use it whenever I shoot a nasty hard kicking weapon from the bench. It totally eliminates felt recoil allowing you to concentrate on the basics without fear of being whacked. It can be used in many ways, and for many things related to shooting and hunting. All in all it is a nice inexpensive piece of kit to have with you. We never had the time to get it to the market, but I do still have some in the package for $30.00 if you or anyone would be interested. At least it gives you another option that works well on the range, and can be used in the field with some imagination. View attachment 246202View attachment 246203

That's slick.

 

[Dragoon300]

That's slick.

Thanks!
It really is a pleasure to use with light weight magnums or 10 gauge slug guns! When my partner came to me with the idea I thought it wasn't very practical, or worse would cause problems. But, it has worked very well, especially when used on a bench. It is small enough to fit in your pocket unlike a lead sled, yet completely eliminates the felt recoil. For those that lije to load their bipod, you can loop it around your rear bag and the bipod legs. When you are holding the rear bag you can lean into the bipod and load it as much as you want, even on ice! It can be used to secure items on your pack, as a hasty sling, or drag an animal out of the field.

 

[jdyoung]

You might consider having a Smith look at the back of your stock and change the angle...look on You Tube for more information on this. There are folks out there that have found amazing differences..just about as good as brakes with this.....just my 2¢ ! ( And much quieter fix...lol)

Yeah, What skipglo wrote ....... and when you change your stock, consider putting a Mercury recoil suppressor in the butt stock along with changing the angle.
MERCURY RECOIL SUPPRESSORS, RECOIL REDUCTION, REDUCE RECOIL IN SHOTGUNS AND RIFLES