Recoil management-poor shooting

[Ed Loccisano]

hydraulic shock absorber in the stock helps to tame the recoil

Shop - FalconStrike

Purchase FalconStrike Hydraulic Recoil Pad (Custom or Multi-Fit) to Reduce Recoil. Greater Accuracy, Less Flinching and More Endurance.

www.falconstrikeusa.com

 

[RuninL8]

So, a few things and I see this all of time with guys wanting a custom light build in a wsm or straight mag. When you reduce rifle weight and increase energy....the felt energy (recoil) has to go somewhere. Harmonics go to crap and you end up with all sorts of tuning issues. 3 things: 1: reduce bullet weight, it's been mentioned. 2: add a limbsaver or kickeez recoil pad, please don't add a slip on :/ find a gun smith to properly grind one for ya, if you can't send it to me, cost ya $120. 3: have the barrel ported, adding a muzzle brake may cause some major issues in precision (or may not) yes, the noice will increase but you'll only have to squeeze the trigger once if you do your job and at the range you should be wearing hearing protection anyway.

 

[wildcat westerner]

Every reply here is well intentioned and accurate. Sakos' are beautiful jewels, as rifles. I visited that Finnish factory and its special. So, you can't have LIGHT weight and NO recoil, especially in a WSM or other magnum caliber. You cannot beat laws of physics. MY 300 WSM is heavy, and has a muzzlebrake, and a LImbsaver recoil pad. hint. hint. hint. Its also placed 4 shots in 1 15/16" at 600 yards.

WW

 

[JAYgs8163]

Some here have used these clamp on brakes with excellent results. Worth a try perhaps. Do a search here and read the many positive reviews,

Clamp-Ons - Witt Machine

Clamp on adapters for unthreaded barrels. Threaded adapters to allow quality muzzle devices to be attached to your unthreaded barrel.

www.wittmachine.net

 

[emp1953]

Lots of good advice here from picking lighter bullets/ loads to a muzzle brake. I'd go the muzzle brake option but you could always take your 375 H&H for your hunt.

I have never used my Lead Sled for any string of shots. I use it mostly one or two shots, when I'm having problems getting a group. After a flier I'll use the sled. If it's back in the group then most likely I am the problem. If its still out of the group then I start looking at the rifle, the ammo, the scope.

 

[big johnson]

Years ago I owned several ssk hand cannons ,recoil was pretty stiff, called J.D. Jones and he told me " recoil is the figment of ones imagination " Bull........t I have wrist problems now , can't fix stupid .

 

[RuninL8]

So, someone hit on the lead sled. Great for getting your rifle on paper. After that you need to shoot the rifle how you plan to use it in the field. Again, recoil and harmonics are different and so can the poi (point of inpact).

 

[Buano]

Magna-Porting will help quite a bit. I bought a used Stainless Sako .375 H&H that was Magna-Ported. I was impressed with the recoil reduction. That said, any muzzle brake will reduce felt recoil a lot more than Magna-Porting. My Weatherby .338/.375 mag with a brake is as comfortable to shoot as my .243. In your situation I would opt for a muzzle-brake and a set of electronic earplugs. You will be very happy, and your shoulder, neck, and head will thank you.

 

[Sjspin]

I had a finnlight that had a bad barrel. Sent it to Beretta and they said it was fine. If I shot it scalding hot, groups were excellent. Otherwise, groups were all over. Replaced the barrel, pillar and glass bedded in a McMillan and not it's a shooter.

The 85 has a unique bedding lug and a cheap, flexible stock. My point is, it could be one or more items, poor bedding, contact with the stock, or a bad barrel. Even custom barrel makers have dogs. Before you invest in parts you might want to 1) ensure it's free floating, 2) check for wear marks around the lug to ensure the stock lug is mating well with the boss, and 3) have a another shooter shoot it and see how it groups. It could be an easy fix before investing.

Also, I found the stock barrel to be front light on balance and harder to maintain good form while shooting unsupported. I really had to focus on technique to ensure I didn't cause a flyer.
All the other recommendations are on point, but you may want to eliminate the other areas first.

 

[mbse20]

Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.

I have a little browning abolt stalker in 300wsm that would easily leave a bruise if I shot it with just a t-shirt on. I put a limbsaver recoil pad on it and it was a night and day improvement. Could be alot of factors on why it groups like that besides a flinch though. Mine doesn't group very well unless I use match bullets

 

[xsn10s]

Post #16 ! Stock does not fit. Pads are good band-aids, but a proper stock and you may not even need a specialty pad.
Years back, I was given an .06 that I could only shoot three rounds before tossing down on the bench and giving up. Just a .30-06 !. I added a good pad, but little help.
Changed to a good stock shape, and it's been my go-to game killer ever since. No add on pad. Can shoot it all day.

Most definetely stock design, or a poor fitting stock, can make felt recoil worse. One of my buddy complained of a 30-06 he had recoiled bad, and it sure did. I blamed the stock design. I had him get a Sims recoil pad and it fixed the problem. So far I've installed Sims recoil pad on five rifles including a 338 RUM and all are much more pleasant to shoot. YMMV.

 

[SSG Graybush]

Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.

You should thread it for either a break or a can. But If you thread it for a break, hearing protection will be needed for the shot while hunting. A can will be ideal. I have a 7mag 8T with a Hypertap break that reduces recoil by 84% and I shoot 180 vld-h at 2925 fps and it feels like 6.5 grendel without a brake. The Hypertap is the best and I highly recommend it if you go with a brake. But.... its loud! Any brake that works well is loud. But I make sure hearing protection is in well at the range.
For hunting a titanium lightweight can like the Trash Panda by Q, 11.8 oz's would be ideal. Q's mount the Cherry Bomb is very good, for mounting cans but not much of a break. Its tapered design keeps the can concentric to the bore. Seen a guy with the Cherry Bomb with a Omega can at my range and his poi shift was like .2" or .3" with or without the can on. And it grouped the same as well, about .3 moa. Q designes it stuff to require no special tools, a 3/4" wrench fit the front of the can and a deep 1/2" socket fits the Cherry Bomb. Smart.
If your gonna go brake get the Hypertap but be prepared to use hearing protection. If you go can consider the Trash Panda. Ive been looking into a can for a while now and thats where am headed.

 

[BPollard]

Easiest recoil reduction on the 300WSM is drop down in bullet weight. Maybe try the 162AH or even 152 HH. Or 168 ABLR. Dropping bullet weight will help it a lot. All will kill up to elk easily.

Use loads that use less powder to achieve velocities you need for above bullets.

Nothing kills scopes, base screws, rings faster than lead sled. Manage the recoil in rifle thru bullet weight and even consider dropping loads down. Animals don't measure bullet velocity that kills them. You really don't loose that much in performance for mid range work.

I just completed a ladder test with 165 Barnes ttsx for my friend a real tack driver and I pussycat. And the bullet will put down most anything

 

[.338 RCM]

I agree that if you're gonna go with that rifle spend the money, and have a top end recoil pad installed, and also a weighted stock.

If you decide to go with something else see if you can get your hands on a .300 H & H magnum. I LOVE mine, and it's a SS/synthetic Browning! It's more like the push of you're 375H&H..