really need help with rifle build off my remington 700

[GERDES G]

Last question first, in short, yes. Cost seems to be high on your list of priorities. This saves smith fee's and frankly, it's not difficult. Although, I wouldn't build on an action that wasn't trued up. It will definitely help shrink that group.

Caliber selection is like girlfriend selection. Some guys are into X, you may not be. Recoil being your deal, I'd consider the calibers you mentioned (6.5 CM, 7-08) and there is nothing that the 7-08 does that the 6.5 CM wont. The 280 AI is essentially 7RM. There is almost no detectable difference. In a lighter sporter, the recoil will likely be in the 30-06 neighborhood unless you are loading the lighter loads, exclusively.

If you go with the 6.5, have it throated for the long heavies and made with a little faster twist (1:7.5).... Just in case

Girlfriend selection! Haha! But also like an 80's fad which has been a 6.5 model for way too long. Haha

 

[Joe6pack]

my 2 cents
I was faced with similar issues over the past years
1. I had a M700 with a synthetic stock chambered in 280 rem
2. I had it Ackly Improved back in the late 80's and never looked back
3. I have killed all manners of NA big game with it - varmints to elk.

My rifle started as a factory rifle, in version 1 the new chambering came.
In version 2 after 8,000 rounds I had some more work done as the barrel was eroding. I decided to do the following:
a. Add a McMillan hunter stock
b. Add a Hart barrel-24" Magnum taper with a 3" heavy section in front of the action (for heat dispersion -it sounded good at the time)
c. Trued and blue printed action
d. Timney trigger
e. bedded the action
f. all in 280 AI 40 deg shoulder
I chose Wally Hart in PA to do this work and they did a great job for a very fair price. The old man is gone now but his shop still does a fine job.

The rifle is on the heavy side but serviceable and very accurate. I normally get 3/4 MOA or less with my loads.

I would encourage you to look hard at the 280AI as it is now a factory cartridge, readily available at almost all gun shops and Nosler makes some great factory stuff from reports.

My opinion based on my chrono, targets and game is that the 280AI is accurate and capable. My elk load with 160gr partitions and RL-22 I get true cloverleafs at 100 yds and 3,026 fps with no signs of pressure.

The 280AI will not beat you up, is inherently accurate and capable. Build your rifle your way, you will enjoy shooting it and will shoot it more than other rifles you may have.

Cheers

 

[wonderman4]

You are not going to accomplish anything recoil wise by going to the 280. It will be close to what you are complaining about now with the 30-06.

I have put together 2 long action 308 Win rifles and they work really good.

Recoil is less than the 30-06. Use a #2 or #3 contour barrel with 1:8 twist. It will work for the 150 gr bullets and you can load up some heavier bullets. The longer bullets will work good in the long action without having to seat them deep in the short 308 Win case.

Just so the reason for my doing so is not a guessing game, I have four rifles 30-06 in the safe and had no 308 Win. Now I have 2. I thought about doing a 243 Win, but barrel life is much better with the 308 Win.

 

[GERDES G]

So you are getting some really good info! And honestly o matter what you decide when you put a brake on any if these mentioned you will be getting hit with something around a .243–25-06.
I am no fan of the 6.5 especially if you are going to elk hunt also. But people have really good arguments for them. Its just not me.
Except for my young teenage years when I had a 300wm I have always carried a 7mm something. Currently 28 Nosler which has minimal recoil with the brake it has on it.
Good Luck! & Happy Hunting!

 

[JAYgs8163]

6.5x284 is my vote and go with a Remage for the lower cost DIY factor.

 

[Sam Summey]

I have posted over the past several months on possibly rebarreling my Remington 700 and im just lost and need help and suggestions. For those that don't know, here is the deal: I have a Remington 700 mountain SS with a pencil thin barrel in 3006. it shoots 1.5MOA which is fine for the hunting I do BUT it bugs me and it recoils a bit more than I would like. The recoil is no problem at all for when I hunt but when I sight it in every year or just shoot it for fun, it does tend to start hurting and cause me to flinch after about 15 rounds. I always like to get below 1 MOA with my reloads and have been able to do so with all my other rifles. Why the change you may ask? well I have built my wife two rifles in 7mm08 and 6.5CM. I absolutely LOVE shooting her rifles. Low to no recoil and they shoot .5MOA if I do my part. This has led me to want to rebarrel my Remington. I want to try and keep costs lower on this one so id prefer to re-use the stock and not have to buy a new bolt (if possible). The stock is a B&C stock (with aluminum bedding block) on the Remington mountain SS with a drop plate (no magazine). it has some meat which can be removed for inletting of a slightly thicker barrel but not too much. It should hold a sporter contour ok but maybe not much thicker. When I checked new bolts out, they would be 200$ which just doesn't fit my budget so that means I need to pick a caliber which fits the 3006 bolt that I have. I hunt primarily whitetails, definitely no Elk or anything big. Maybe the very rare black bear but doubtful. I do not hunt prone with this rifle nor do I want a brake on it. It is primarily tree-stand hunting and shooting house hunting with absolute max ranges being 400 yards but the norm would be under 200 yards. I am pretty sure I no longer want 3006 (partly because of recoil and partly because im just bored).

Number 1 thing is a sub 1 MOA rifle. It just bugs me when a rifle wont shoot under 1 MOA.

Number 2 is trying to make the current stock work which means not a thick contour. Again, my guess is not too much thicker than a sporter contour barrel would work ok. if I MUST, then I could buy a new B&C stock in regular sporter contour but now the build itself is getting into the territory of just buying a new rifle such as a Tikka or Sako A7 etc.

Number 3 is lower recoil than a 3006 in a ultralight barrel. I used to shoot 300 winmags but as ive been using my wife's rifles, ive been loving lower recoil.

What I know I dont want is another 3006 or a 270win. So here is what ive been contemplating but truly not sure what to do. I could go with 280ai and load it with 140 grain bullets to help tame recoil a bit and keep the gun shooting pretty flat. This way, should I ever want a power setup (elk), I could load it with 160s at full tilt and be ok but I think 140 grain bullets with a mid range powder charge should keep recoil lower than my current 3006 shooting 165 grain bullets. 280ai also allows for some factory ammo in a pinch.

Last question is, should I go remage? Ive done switch barrels with my savage rifles so I have a action vise and barrel nut wrench so that isn't a worry...inletting the new barrel is definitely the worry on this one. I have zero experience and I think id rather have a gunsmith do that so ive thought about just sending it to a smith and having them square the action and throw the new barrel on. What kind of costs should I expect for this?

Other than this im not sure what else is possible.

Trade in in on a new rifle in 7mm08 w/5R rifling, use 140 gr bullets.

 

[30BR]

I would do a 6.5-284 or a straight. 284. Throat them for long heavy bullets and make use of the long magazine. Twist accordingly. Either would make a great hunting rifle.

And add a brake.

 

[robert l]

I have posted over the past several months on possibly rebarreling my Remington 700 and im just lost and need help and suggestions. For those that don't know, here is the deal: I have a Remington 700 mountain SS with a pencil thin barrel in 3006. it shoots 1.5MOA which is fine for the hunting I do BUT it bugs me and it recoils a bit more than I would like. The recoil is no problem at all for when I hunt but when I sight it in every year or just shoot it for fun, it does tend to start hurting and cause me to flinch after about 15 rounds. I always like to get below 1 MOA with my reloads and have been able to do so with all my other rifles. Why the change you may ask? well I have built my wife two rifles in 7mm08 and 6.5CM. I absolutely LOVE shooting her rifles. Low to no recoil and they shoot .5MOA if I do my part. This has led me to want to rebarrel my Remington. I want to try and keep costs lower on this one so id prefer to re-use the stock and not have to buy a new bolt (if possible). The stock is a B&C stock (with aluminum bedding block) on the Remington mountain SS with a drop plate (no magazine). it has some meat which can be removed for inletting of a slightly thicker barrel but not too much. It should hold a sporter contour ok but maybe not much thicker. When I checked new bolts out, they would be 200$ which just doesn't fit my budget so that means I need to pick a caliber which fits the 3006 bolt that I have. I hunt primarily whitetails, definitely no Elk or anything big. Maybe the very rare black bear but doubtful. I do not hunt prone with this rifle nor do I want a brake on it. It is primarily tree-stand hunting and shooting house hunting with absolute max ranges being 400 yards but the norm would be under 200 yards. I am pretty sure I no longer want 3006 (partly because of recoil and partly because im just bored).

Number 1 thing is a sub 1 MOA rifle. It just bugs me when a rifle wont shoot under 1 MOA.

Number 2 is trying to make the current stock work which means not a thick contour. Again, my guess is not too much thicker than a sporter contour barrel would work ok. if I MUST, then I could buy a new B&C stock in regular sporter contour but now the build itself is getting into the territory of just buying a new rifle such as a Tikka or Sako A7 etc.

Number 3 is lower recoil than a 3006 in a ultralight barrel. I used to shoot 300 winmags but as ive been using my wife's rifles, ive been loving lower recoil.

What I know I dont want is another 3006 or a 270win. So here is what ive been contemplating but truly not sure what to do. I could go with 280ai and load it with 140 grain bullets to help tame recoil a bit and keep the gun shooting pretty flat. This way, should I ever want a power setup (elk), I could load it with 160s at full tilt and be ok but I think 140 grain bullets with a mid range powder charge should keep recoil lower than my current 3006 shooting 165 grain bullets. 280ai also allows for some factory ammo in a pinch.

Last question is, should I go remage? Ive done switch barrels with my savage rifles so I have a action vise and barrel nut wrench so that isn't a worry...inletting the new barrel is definitely the worry on this one. I have zero experience and I think id rather have a gunsmith do that so ive thought about just sending it to a smith and having them square the action and throw the new barrel on. What kind of costs should I expect for this?

Other than this im not sure what else is possible.

Referring to the stock.You should have no problem as long if its the m40.There is plenty of meat to do pretty much what ever you choose.As far as recoil you need one of two things to tame it.Either a heavy barrel or a brake. I have a 13 pound rifle that is a large caliber magnum that kicks like a 270.Good luck with your build.

 

[Orange Dust]

And add a brake.

YES. I would bet you could take the lowly, unappreciated .284, put a 26" barrel on it, throat it so you could load 175-180 grain bullets base of boattail / base of neck, and meet or exceed the velocity of a 24" 7MM WSM loaded to SAAMI length. And do it with 10grs less powder. I just may do this one day, just for fun. Would make a really unique and cool long range rifle.

 

[purpledragon]

I should have mentioned factory ammo availability is a plus. Not a must but a definite plus.

Sounds like the contenders listed above are the 6.5-284, 6.5-06, and the 25-06. I don't think I like how tiny the 25-06 caliber bullets are too be honest. The smallest id want to go is 6.5 bullets.

Is there any factory 6.5-284 or 6.5-06 ammo at a typical gun shop or a field and stream?

Don't let that tiny "as you call it" quarter bore bullet scare you away. I have a 25stw that I did on a Savage action with a Sheilen 28" bbl and shoot 85gr GS Custom HV's thru it. Have taken big Mississippi deer at 700+ DRT and some pretty big hogs at extended range DRT or less than 40yds they dropped. The 25-06 is a great round and will stop things bigger than deer....JMHO

 

[robert l]

Last question first, in short, yes. Cost seems to be high on your list of priorities. This saves smith fee's and frankly, it's not difficult. Although, I wouldn't build on an action that wasn't trued up. It will definitely help shrink that group.

Caliber selection is like girlfriend selection. Some guys are into X, you may not be. Recoil being your deal, I'd consider the calibers you mentioned (6.5 CM, 7-08) and there is nothing that the 7-08 does that the 6.5 CM wont. The 280 AI is essentially 7RM. There is almost no detectable difference. In a lighter sporter, the recoil will likely be in the 30-06 neighborhood unless you are loading the lighter loads, exclusively.

If you go with the 6.5, have it throated for the long heavies and made with a little faster twist (1:7.5).... Just in case

A 270 gets my vote.

 

[Jud96]

I don't agree with the whole idea of selling your rifle and buying another new factory rifle. Honestly, it's hit or miss whether you get a good factory rifle or not. Even the best ones don't necessarily equal the quality of a custom barrel. In my opinion and experience, the cheapest and most beneficial way to get an accurate rifle, is to buy a factory 700 and have a quality barrel installed. Why fight a factory rifle that is picky, fouls easily, and might not shoot well, when you can take that $500-600 and have quality barrel installed by a good smith? I don't like wasting my time or money. If I want a particular caliber or want my rifle to shoot, I'm not into gambling my money away for a factory rifle. Same with the whole rebuilding the car scenario. If you have a good platform to start on, just build what you have instead of wasting time and money on something that you could have done right the first time. Just my opinions from my personal experience with my rifles and dozens of others from close friends and family.

 

[Jud96]

YES. I would bet you could take the lowly, unappreciated .284, put a 26" barrel on it, throat it so you could load 175-180 grain bullets base of boattail / base of neck, and meet or exceed the velocity of a 24" 7MM WSM loaded to SAAMI length. And do it with 10grs less powder. I just may do this one day, just for fun. Would make a really unique and cool long range rifle.

I have the exact rifle you just described haha. I took my old Remington 700 .270, and put a Bartlein #3 barrel on it, cut to 26" with a 1-8 twist. It's chambered in .284 Winchester/Norma Match with 0.208 of freebore for the 175-180gr bullets. I shoot 175GR. Berger Elite Hunters in it at 2855FPS. with 54.2gr of RL23 lit with a Federal 210M primer in Peterson .284 brass. It shoots 1/4-3/8" groups at 100 yards and 1/2 MOA or less at 400+ yards. The boattail/bearing surface junction is seated just at the neck/shoulder junction with an O.A.L. of 3.175" at 0.050" off the lands where it shoots best. I have a Hawkins Precision 3 port brake installed that's turned down to the barrel contour. It hits like a hammer and kicks like a .22-250 haha!

 

[robert l]

I don't agree with the whole idea of selling your rifle and buying another new factory rifle. Honestly, it's hit or miss whether you get a good factory rifle or not. Even the best ones don't necessarily equal the quality of a custom barrel. In my opinion and experience, the cheapest and most beneficial way to get an accurate rifle, is to buy a factory 700 and have a quality barrel installed. Why fight a factory rifle that is picky, fouls easily, and might not shoot well, when you can take that $500-600 and have quality barrel installed by a good smith? I don't like wasting my time or money. If I want a particular caliber or want my rifle to shoot, I'm not into gambling my money away for a factory rifle. Same with the whole rebuilding the car scenario. If you have a good platform to start on, just build what you have instead of wasting time and money on something that you could have done right the first time. Just my opinions from my personal experience with my rifles and dozens of others from close friends and family.

I agree totally why get rid of a good rifle to buy some thing that could be a good or bad one.Douglas rifles will make and install what ever kind of barrel you want for 500 bucks i have used these barrels and i never got one that shot worse than 3/4 moa at 200 yards.which means you do your own inletting.