really need help with rifle build off my remington 700

[Don A Parsons]

You can't pick up 6.5/06 as factory ammo,,, don't over look the factory 270 Winchester or 280 Remington,,, both of those calibers shoot the 130 to 150 grain'ers bullets in the factory twist rate of 1:10,,, the 25/06 is pretty good with the 117 gr boolitz as well,,, my friend in Northern BC has taken alot of Moose in Alaska and the Territories... Up close and personal...

I forgot to mention that I use reduced loads for my 30/06 in the off season which helps reduce alot of recoil and flash burn on the throat...

I load down to 308 Winchester specs in the 165/168 gr bullets at 2720 ft-per seconds,,, they also flatten out Deer like pancakes at 200 yards...

Super fun to shoot... And they sell reduced factors loads as well...

Cheers from the North

 

[Another Casual]

If you reload, check out the reduced load options with H4895. Could load your 30-06 down to 308 or slower for practice/range time and then put the full (or just increased) strength stuff in for hunting. Also, shooting a light rifle well is difficult. Part of the accuracy issues could be the low weight and your perception of the recoil.

 

[Bigeclipse]

If you reload, check out the reduced load options with H4895. Could load your 30-06 down to 308 or slower for practice/range time and then put the full (or just increased) strength stuff in for hunting. Also, shooting a light rifle well is difficult. Part of the accuracy issues could be the low weight and your perception of the recoil.

I completely understand but this isn't my first light weight rifle in a heavy caliber. Like I said I've been shooting 300winmags and 7mm rem mags my whole life with little to no accuracy issues. Yes, I no doubt shoot better with lower recoiling rifles but I'm able to get .5moa with my heavier caliber rifles and proper hand loads. I've tried many loads with my 3006 and the best I've got is a load which is typically 1.5moa but occasionally hits 1.2s. I'm talking 3 shot groups. It heats up way to fast for 5 shot groups. Do I need sub MOA for where I hunt...nope. But it just bugs me. I want a rifle that with hand loads will definitely be under 1inch at 100 yards. If I could find a factory Load offering which could give me 1.5inches in a pinch or better, that would be icing on the cake which is why I was thinking rebarreling to a 280ai. I could do handloads with 140grainers and just medium velocity powder charges to give me less recoil than my 3006 was but also be able to have some factory ammo offerings in a pinch.

 

[762x51]

take one your wife's guns and tell her to build her own

 

[hzy1369]

I have a Remington SPS in 300 and it shoots as soft as my 25-06. I also have a 35 year old 30-06 ADL wood stock no recoil pad and its punishing to shoot more then 10 rounds and is now a safe queen but **** it looks good. Plus the 700 Magpul in 308 liked to stock so much when I got my Gen 2 in 300 got another Magpul stock for it. Besides I like a rail for optics and the removable mags are really nice. Anyway keep the 06 and get a
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-sps-threaded-barrel
either in 308 or 243 about the same cost as rebuilding a beautiful classic

 

[Another Casual]

I completely understand but this isn't my first light weight rifle in a heavy caliber. Like I said I've been shooting 300winmags and 7mm rem mags my whole life with little to no accuracy issues. Yes, I no doubt shoot better with lower recoiling rifles but I'm able to get .5moa with my heavier caliber rifles and proper hand loads. I've tried many loads with my 3006 and the best I've got is a load which is typically 1.5moa but occasionally hits 1.2s. I'm talking 3 shot groups. It heats up way to fast for 5 shot groups. Do I need sub MOA for where I hunt...nope. But it just bugs me. I want a rifle that with hand loads will definitely be under 1inch at 100 yards. If I could find a factory Load offering which could give me 1.5inches in a pinch or better, that would be icing on the cake which is why I was thinking rebarreling to a 280ai. I could do handloads with 140grainers and just medium velocity powder charges to give me less recoil than my 3006 was but also be able to have some factory ammo offerings in a pinch.

I understand the frustration, had a model 70 in 270 that did the same not matter what I tried. Never was quite happy with it, so I sold it down the river and built what I wanted. If you have no sentimental attachment to this rifle, I would start from scratch. I sold my model 70 and picked up a big horn action, pieced the rest together over the next two years. Ended up with a rifle that fit me very well and shoots great. I don't even notice the recoil. With what you have now you may not be able to go much thicker on barrel etc, so depending on what you want you may need to swap the stock too, etc. If you sell your rifle and put that and your current budget together you could probably get a custom action and a prefit. Add trigger and stock and off you go.

 

[LVJ76]

I would go with the 7mm-08, it plain and simply works and with little recoil. The 120gr, 139gr and 140gr bullets work great on deer and even elk, but if you want a little more punch then a 150gr or 154gr for elk will work perfectly.

 

[LVJ76]

I would go with the 7mm-08, it just plain and simply works and with little recoil. The 120gr, 139gr and 140gr bullets work great on deer and even elk, but if you want a little more punch then a 150gr or 154gr for elk will work perfectly.

 

[PredatorSlayer]

I have posted over the past several months on possibly rebarreling my Remington 700 and im just lost and need help and suggestions. For those that don't know, here is the deal: I have a Remington 700 mountain SS with a pencil thin barrel in 3006. it shoots 1.5MOA which is fine for the hunting I do BUT it bugs me and it recoils a bit more than I would like. The recoil is no problem at all for when I hunt but when I sight it in every year or just shoot it for fun, it does tend to start hurting and cause me to flinch after about 15 rounds. I always like to get below 1 MOA with my reloads and have been able to do so with all my other rifles. Why the change you may ask? well I have built my wife two rifles in 7mm08 and 6.5CM. I absolutely LOVE shooting her rifles. Low to no recoil and they shoot .5MOA if I do my part. This has led me to want to rebarrel my Remington. I want to try and keep costs lower on this one so id prefer to re-use the stock and not have to buy a new bolt (if possible). The stock is a B&C stock (with aluminum bedding block) on the Remington mountain SS with a drop plate (no magazine). it has some meat which can be removed for inletting of a slightly thicker barrel but not too much. It should hold a sporter contour ok but maybe not much thicker. When I checked new bolts out, they would be 200$ which just doesn't fit my budget so that means I need to pick a caliber which fits the 3006 bolt that I have. I hunt primarily whitetails, definitely no Elk or anything big. Maybe the very rare black bear but doubtful. I do not hunt prone with this rifle nor do I want a brake on it. It is primarily tree-stand hunting and shooting house hunting with absolute max ranges being 400 yards but the norm would be under 200 yards. I am pretty sure I no longer want 3006 (partly because of recoil and partly because im just bored).

Number 1 thing is a sub 1 MOA rifle. It just bugs me when a rifle wont shoot under 1 MOA.

Number 2 is trying to make the current stock work which means not a thick contour. Again, my guess is not too much thicker than a sporter contour barrel would work ok. if I MUST, then I could buy a new B&C stock in regular sporter contour but now the build itself is getting into the territory of just buying a new rifle such as a Tikka or Sako A7 etc.

Number 3 is lower recoil than a 3006 in a ultralight barrel. I used to shoot 300 winmags but as ive been using my wife's rifles, ive been loving lower recoil.

What I know I dont want is another 3006 or a 270win. So here is what ive been contemplating but truly not sure what to do. I could go with 280ai and load it with 140 grain bullets to help tame recoil a bit and keep the gun shooting pretty flat. This way, should I ever want a power setup (elk), I could load it with 160s at full tilt and be ok but I think 140 grain bullets with a mid range powder charge should keep recoil lower than my current 3006 shooting 165 grain bullets. 280ai also allows for some factory ammo in a pinch.

Last question is, should I go remage? Ive done switch barrels with my savage rifles so I have a action vise and barrel nut wrench so that isn't a worry...inletting the new barrel is definitely the worry on this one. I have zero experience and I think id rather have a gunsmith do that so ive thought about just sending it to a smith and having them square the action and throw the new barrel on. What kind of costs should I expect for this?

Other than this im not sure what else is possible.

i would go 6.5x284 or 6.5-06. Or you could really shake it up with a 25-06. Of the 3 the 25-06 will have the least amount of recoil.

 

[Darktimber]

If your plan is to go with the same, or a very similar contour to your current barrel and no brake i highly doubt you would feel any appreciable difference in recoil with the 280ai, even with 140gr. Bullets. I love my 280ai sporter but it is not what i would consider a light kicking rifle
25-06 would be my pick. It is a great whitetail rifle and could certainly take black bear efficiently. 6.5-06 or 6.5-284 would be ideal but you are not going to be able to find loaded ammo anywhere. Most stores will have 25-06 ammo

 

[Darktimber]

Also i might catch some flak for this, but if cost is a high concern, you shouldnt need to have the action trued up if your criteria is a sub moa rifle. A quality barrel will get you there easily, maybe a better trigger if you dont already have one

 

[Bigeclipse]

Also i might catch some flak for this, but if cost is a high concern, you shouldnt need to have the action trued up if your criteria is a sub moa rifle. A quality barrel will get you there easily, maybe a better trigger if you dont already have one

Thanks. It has a timney trigger set at about 2lbs at the moment. I don't mind reloading but prefer being able to have factory rounds. It's not that I hate the recoil of the 3006, I just LOVE the lower recoil of my wife's rifles lol. I need to really think about the 2506 or having to reload with the 6.5-284

 

[AZShooter]

I agree with another poster make milder load with existing setup. You could shoot 125-150 gr bullets. Add a pad to rear of stock when shooting off the bench. Set up the rest and rear bag so the rifle sits higher which will lessen recoil.

As for getting MOA from the rifle, go through the rifle carefully and you might find a few things that are preventing the accuracy you want. IMO rebarreling is going to cost you plenty of money and time. You have the platform make sure it is sound first.


From my documents files as it is too easy to forget some of them:



Action screws should be torqued to an inch pound value.

Leupold windage style rear base windage screws not tight

Front scope ring base screw touching threads of barrel.

Imperfection in crown

Screw holes in wood stock too small, drill larger so sides of action screw won't touch

Bolt handle touching stock

Magazine box must not bind

Recoil lug making early contact in bottom of the slot causing the action to sit off bedding or in your situation the bedding block.

If you haven't done it a skim bedding in that stock could help.

Front of trigger group must not touch stock

Trigger guard must not touch trigger

Uneven bedding--- tightening one action screw to see if the action pulls up at other end.

Some stocks have an area near the front of the barrel channel where barrel makes contact. Remove the "bump" and see if it helps.

If the stock has the barrel floated it should not make contact with barrel channel except the first inch or so past the reciever. Due to some flexing some rifles that appear to have floated barrels required additional material be removed from stock as the barrel would make contact during firing.

Finally is the rifle truly clean? I talked with a guy at the range yesterday that was having accuracy issues. Discovered he only uses hope's #9 when cleaning his 30-06. I suggested he had a great deal of copper fouling in the bore. He needs to use a copper removing solvent. My fav is Bore tech eliminator.

 

[bigngreen]

Sounds like you need to go trade it in for a Tikka 6.5 Creedmore and don't waste time or money.
If factory fodder is a real consideration a 25-05 or 6.5x284 really aren't options. Hands down the best factory ammo in the most flavors at the best price is the 6.5 Creedmore.