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really need help with rifle build off my remington 700

Follow your heart. Opinions are like elbows, almost everybody has them. I agree with some of those requests. First of all, you have a long action. Forget the "short" cases especially the 6.5-.284. You will probably have to alter the feed rails to insure proper feeding. If you want a short case get a short action. Obviously you aren't obsessed with high velocity. I don't have any experience with RemAge barrels, but I've heard a lot of good about them and in fact my next build will be one. I have the luxury of access to a machine shop, so I do all my own work. Trueing action is easy, and most of the time lapping the lugs takes much longer than machining the reciever. Unfortunately, recoil is a necessary evil, so we have have to put up with it. the only way to lessen it either slow the the bullet or install a muzzle brake. "Felt" recoil gas many factors. First of all every action has a equal and opposite reaction. The energy formula is E=Mass times the velocity squared. Mass or bullet weight has to change substantially to make a difference in energy. On the other hand small changes in velocity make a difference in energy because the velocity is squared. To make it simple, a 10 percent increase in bullet weight will result in a 10 percent increase in energy. On the contrary, a 10 percent increase in velocity will result in a 20 percent increase in energy. So compare a 6.5-06 with a 120 grain bullet and a 30-06 with a 150 grain bullet. The 6.5-06 at 3100fps has 2560 foot pounds of energy. The 30-06 at 3000fps has 2997 foot pounds of energy. That is a little less than 15% difference. So, install a good recoil pad, get a heavier stock, install a muzzle brake, or decrease bullet weight or velocity. Face it, you just want something different. The 270W and the 280R basicly have the same recoil as the 30-06. So, get RemAge barrels in 280AI, 6.5-06AI, and 25-06AI. Play with them and see which one you like the best. Then send me the other two.
Good luck.
 
l think Federal makes low recoil 30-06 ammo.. 125gr JHP @ app 2800fps... Also, a heavy rear bag between stock and shoulder is a great lmprovement.. Years ago l worked awhile for Jarrett Rifles.. We built a lot of Dangerous Game and Magnum rifles... Part of a Jarrett Rifle pkg is a box of ammo tuned for that gun. Shooting a 375H&H or 458Winchester off a bench rest can be painful for ANYONE... The pain is eliminated or lessened with a heavy leather sand bag between stock and shoulder.. LOTS cheaper than a rebarrel. Plus you get to keep the finest Big Game ctg ever known.. The 30-06!!!
 
Just to clarify, the .284 Winchester along with all of the other wildcats based off it, will fit, feed, function 100% in a factory 700 long action. No modifying needed to the feed rails, bolt, magazine or anything.
 
Here is a suggestion. Recoil of any cartridge using the '06 case can be duplicated pretty well with an actual '06. Just duplicate the bullet wt and velocity of the cartridge you are interested in. If you are going to use a little heavier barrel just remove the mag spring and add the difference in lead wrapped in foam to the magazine. If you think you want a 25-06, load up some 110gr bullets to approximate 25-06 velocity and shoot them, load some 130's to 3000 and you have a .270 or 6.5-06. Recoil will be close enough you would have to measure it to tell any difference. I haven't gone here because this is a long range forum, but low recoil loads are an option. Years ago I worked with the good folks in the Ballistics lab at Accurate powders to develop some of these. In the '06 we used a 130gr Sierra single shot pistol bullet and 5744 powder. They have the data available. Compares favorably to the .30 Herrett and stays within this bullet's velocity range for good expansion. It is a great deer load to 200yds or so. Recoil is about like a 22-250. This powder is very linear in its pressure curve and is great to work with in many cartridges for this purpose. The loads listed are maximum pressure though so don't exceed them. Play around and experiment a little and you will be able to decide for yourself exactly what you are getting into before buying or building a new gun. You already have a good one.
 
Just to clarify, the .284 Winchester along with all of the other wildcats based off it, will fit, feed, function 100% in a factory 700 long action. No modifying needed to the feed rails, bolt, magazine or anything.
AND they won't work well in a short action with heavy bullets. This is the reason they are always chambered in long actions. Same thing with the WSM's. They are a whole 'nother cat in a medium or long action.
 
I'm another vote for a .25-06. It's tried & true, has low recoil, will do anything you anticipate, and will easily fit your components. I have many more rifles than fit in my safe, but my .25-06 seems to be used the most because it just fits the job so well, with flat trajectories, low recoil, ACCURACY, and effectiveness on deer.
 
Hey guy did you think that this was going to grow so large.You have enough ideas to build 75 differant rifles.You could do this simple or go nuts doing some thing like buying a new rifle.There are alot of things like just have a brake installed or add alittle weight to the butt stock and put a reall good butt pad on it.that alone will cure the recoil issue. Then i would do some load work to get a better moa.So if this is a hunting rifle you will need not to fire twenty five rounds.I think the barrel is getting to fouled and to hot to keep the good moa.Butt a new barrel would make a huge differance. So good luck to you in your now a great adventure, Bob.
 
Like others have said, 25-06. My son has shot one, Rem 700 BDL, since he was about 15, now in his early 50's. Light bullets mean lighter recoil. Tack-driver using Federal Premium 117gr boat-tail soft points. Used to reload for it but a box of ammo lasts 3-4 years. 3 annually to verify scope setting and 1 round per deer.
 
I have posted over the past several months on possibly rebarreling my Remington 700 and im just lost and need help and suggestions. For those that don't know, here is the deal: I have a Remington 700 mountain SS with a pencil thin barrel in 3006. it shoots 1.5MOA which is fine for the hunting I do BUT it bugs me and it recoils a bit more than I would like. The recoil is no problem at all for when I hunt but when I sight it in every year or just shoot it for fun, it does tend to start hurting and cause me to flinch after about 15 rounds. I always like to get below 1 MOA with my reloads and have been able to do so with all my other rifles. Why the change you may ask? well I have built my wife two rifles in 7mm08 and 6.5CM. I absolutely LOVE shooting her rifles. Low to no recoil and they shoot .5MOA if I do my part. This has led me to want to rebarrel my Remington. I want to try and keep costs lower on this one so id prefer to re-use the stock and not have to buy a new bolt (if possible). The stock is a B&C stock (with aluminum bedding block) on the Remington mountain SS with a drop plate (no magazine). it has some meat which can be removed for inletting of a slightly thicker barrel but not too much. It should hold a sporter contour ok but maybe not much thicker. When I checked new bolts out, they would be 200$ which just doesn't fit my budget so that means I need to pick a caliber which fits the 3006 bolt that I have. I hunt primarily whitetails, definitely no Elk or anything big. Maybe the very rare black bear but doubtful. I do not hunt prone with this rifle nor do I want a brake on it. It is primarily tree-stand hunting and shooting house hunting with absolute max ranges being 400 yards but the norm would be under 200 yards. I am pretty sure I no longer want 3006 (partly because of recoil and partly because im just bored).

Number 1 thing is a sub 1 MOA rifle. It just bugs me when a rifle wont shoot under 1 MOA.

Number 2 is trying to make the current stock work which means not a thick contour. Again, my guess is not too much thicker than a sporter contour barrel would work ok. if I MUST, then I could buy a new B&C stock in regular sporter contour but now the build itself is getting into the territory of just buying a new rifle such as a Tikka or Sako A7 etc.

Number 3 is lower recoil than a 3006 in a ultralight barrel. I used to shoot 300 winmags but as ive been using my wife's rifles, ive been loving lower recoil.

What I know I dont want is another 3006 or a 270win. So here is what ive been contemplating but truly not sure what to do. I could go with 280ai and load it with 140 grain bullets to help tame recoil a bit and keep the gun shooting pretty flat. This way, should I ever want a power setup (elk), I could load it with 160s at full tilt and be ok but I think 140 grain bullets with a mid range powder charge should keep recoil lower than my current 3006 shooting 165 grain bullets. 280ai also allows for some factory ammo in a pinch.

Last question is, should I go remage? Ive done switch barrels with my savage rifles so I have a action vise and barrel nut wrench so that isn't a worry...inletting the new barrel is definitely the worry on this one. I have zero experience and I think id rather have a gunsmith do that so ive thought about just sending it to a smith and having them square the action and throw the new barrel on. What kind of costs should I expect for this?

Other than this im not sure what else is possible.
 
I have three 700 Rem Remage builds. One LA in 270 win, 26" McGowen 1-8 twist shoots 170 Berger's at 2,930 FPS, accurate sub moa. One build is on a long action 284 win McGowen 28" 1-8 twist custom throat for 180 through 197 SMK, I can get 2,740 fps out of a 197 SMK. I have another in 338 win mag 26" McGowen 1-10, I get 2,850 out of 250 gr class bullets. I love them all because If I get the itch for anything else, I can order a barrel, swap out an action and you are in business. Cartridges can be crazy their is always a new flavor of the week. To me REMAGE was the way to go. Enjoy
 
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