really need help with rifle build off my remington 700

[John Polk]

.270 Winchester is the way to go. You will get a significant reduction recoil and a much flater trajectory with 130gr. bullets. This has one of the top deer rifles for almost 100 years. If you add a Limbsaver recoil pad the recoil will be below a .243 Win. You can make this conversion for less than $200 and be the best equipped hunter in the field.

 

[Bigeclipse]

.270 Winchester is the way to go. You will get a significant reduction recoil and a much flater trajectory with 130gr. bullets. This has one of the top deer rifles for almost 100 years. If you add a Limbsaver recoil pad the recoil will be below a .243 Win. You can make this conversion for less than $200 and be the best equipped hunter in the field.

not sure how as most custom barrels I buy are 300+$. I was figuring 350$ for barrel and then 150$ for install.

 

[Jud96]

not sure how as most custom barrels I buy are 300+$. I was figuring 350$ for barrel and then 150$ for install.

The install is closer to $250-400. It really depends on your area and the gunsmith. Like I said earlier, a good barrel for the money is one of the Wilson barrels from raggedholebarrels.net. They're like $170 and shoot very well. That's the route I'd go if I was trying to keep costs as low as possible.

If you're able to spend $600-700 on this project, then I would recommend Bartlein, Krieger, Hart, Brux, Broughton, and any other big name, high quality, barrel manufacturer. Those barrels will be $300-370, but are the best you can get.

 

[John Polk]

If you're going to spend $500+ for a barrel conversion, why not just buy a new rifle?

 

[338 dude]

I have posted over the past several months on possibly rebarreling my Remington 700 and im just lost and need help and suggestions. For those that don't know, here is the deal: I have a Remington 700 mountain SS with a pencil thin barrel in 3006. it shoots 1.5MOA which is fine for the hunting I do BUT it bugs me and it recoils a bit more than I would like. The recoil is no problem at all for when I hunt but when I sight it in every year or just shoot it for fun, it does tend to start hurting and cause me to flinch after about 15 rounds. I always like to get below 1 MOA with my reloads and have been able to do so with all my other rifles. Why the change you may ask? well I have built my wife two rifles in 7mm08 and 6.5CM. I absolutely LOVE shooting her rifles. Low to no recoil and they shoot .5MOA if I do my part. This has led me to want to rebarrel my Remington. I want to try and keep costs lower on this one so id prefer to re-use the stock and not have to buy a new bolt (if possible). The stock is a B&C stock (with aluminum bedding block) on the Remington mountain SS with a drop plate (no magazine). it has some meat which can be removed for inletting of a slightly thicker barrel but not too much. It should hold a sporter contour ok but maybe not much thicker. When I checked new bolts out, they would be 200$ which just doesn't fit my budget so that means I need to pick a caliber which fits the 3006 bolt that I have. I hunt primarily whitetails, definitely no Elk or anything big. Maybe the very rare black bear but doubtful. I do not hunt prone with this rifle nor do I want a brake on it. It is primarily tree-stand hunting and shooting house hunting with absolute max ranges being 400 yards but the norm would be under 200 yards. I am pretty sure I no longer want 3006 (partly because of recoil and partly because im just bored).

Number 1 thing is a sub 1 MOA rifle. It just bugs me when a rifle wont shoot under 1 MOA.

Number 2 is trying to make the current stock work which means not a thick contour. Again, my guess is not too much thicker than a sporter contour barrel would work ok. if I MUST, then I could buy a new B&C stock in regular sporter contour but now the build itself is getting into the territory of just buying a new rifle such as a Tikka or Sako A7 etc.

Number 3 is lower recoil than a 3006 in a ultralight barrel. I used to shoot 300 winmags but as ive been using my wife's rifles, ive been loving lower recoil.

What I know I dont want is another 3006 or a 270win. So here is what ive been contemplating but truly not sure what to do. I could go with 280ai and load it with 140 grain bullets to help tame recoil a bit and keep the gun shooting pretty flat. This way, should I ever want a power setup (elk), I could load it with 160s at full tilt and be ok but I think 140 grain bullets with a mid range powder charge should keep recoil lower than my current 3006 shooting 165 grain bullets. 280ai also allows for some factory ammo in a pinch.

Last question is, should I go remage? Ive done switch barrels with my savage rifles so I have a action vise and barrel nut wrench so that isn't a worry...inletting the new barrel is definitely the worry on this one. I have zero experience and I think id rather have a gunsmith do that so ive thought about just sending it to a smith and having them square the action and throw the new barrel on. What kind of costs should I expect for this?

Other than this im not sure what else is possible.

6.5x284

 

[Cal1980]

I should have mentioned factory ammo availability is a plus. Not a must but a definite plus.

Sounds like the contenders listed above are the 6.5-284, 6.5-06, and the 25-06. I don't think I like how tiny the 25-06 caliber bullets are too be honest. The smallest id want to go is 6.5 bullets.

Is there any factory 6.5-284 or 6.5-06 ammo at a typical gun shop or a field and stream?

I hope this helps with any reservations regardings the tiny 25-06 bullet. My nephew took this doe a couple years ago on a youth hunt using a 25-06 with a Berger 115 gr VLD.

 

[Arkansasdad]

I have posted over the past several months on possibly rebarreling my Remington 700 and im just lost and need help and suggestions. For those that don't know, here is the deal: I have a Remington 700 mountain SS with a pencil thin barrel in 3006. it shoots 1.5MOA which is fine for the hunting I do BUT it bugs me and it recoils a bit more than I would like. The recoil is no problem at all for when I hunt but when I sight it in every year or just shoot it for fun, it does tend to start hurting and cause me to flinch after about 15 rounds. I always like to get below 1 MOA with my reloads and have been able to do so with all my other rifles. Why the change you may ask? well I have built my wife two rifles in 7mm08 and 6.5CM. I absolutely LOVE shooting her rifles. Low to no recoil and they shoot .5MOA if I do my part. This has led me to want to rebarrel my Remington. I want to try and keep costs lower on this one so id prefer to re-use the stock and not have to buy a new bolt (if possible). The stock is a B&C stock (with aluminum bedding block) on the Remington mountain SS with a drop plate (no magazine). it has some meat which can be removed for inletting of a slightly thicker barrel but not too much. It should hold a sporter contour ok but maybe not much thicker. When I checked new bolts out, they would be 200$ which just doesn't fit my budget so that means I need to pick a caliber which fits the 3006 bolt that I have. I hunt primarily whitetails, definitely no Elk or anything big. Maybe the very rare black bear but doubtful. I do not hunt prone with this rifle nor do I want a brake on it. It is primarily tree-stand hunting and shooting house hunting with absolute max ranges being 400 yards but the norm would be under 200 yards. I am pretty sure I no longer want 3006 (partly because of recoil and partly because im just bored).

Number 1 thing is a sub 1 MOA rifle. It just bugs me when a rifle wont shoot under 1 MOA.

Number 2 is trying to make the current stock work which means not a thick contour. Again, my guess is not too much thicker than a sporter contour barrel would work ok. if I MUST, then I could buy a new B&C stock in regular sporter contour but now the build itself is getting into the territory of just buying a new rifle such as a Tikka or Sako A7 etc.

Number 3 is lower recoil than a 3006 in a ultralight barrel. I used to shoot 300 winmags but as ive been using my wife's rifles, ive been loving lower recoil.

What I know I dont want is another 3006 or a 270win. So here is what ive been contemplating but truly not sure what to do. I could go with 280ai and load it with 140 grain bullets to help tame recoil a bit and keep the gun shooting pretty flat. This way, should I ever want a power setup (elk), I could load it with 160s at full tilt and be ok but I think 140 grain bullets with a mid range powder charge should keep recoil lower than my current 3006 shooting 165 grain bullets. 280ai also allows for some factory ammo in a pinch.

Last question is, should I go remage? Ive done switch barrels with my savage rifles so I have a action vise and barrel nut wrench so that isn't a worry...inletting the new barrel is definitely the worry on this one. I have zero experience and I think id rather have a gunsmith do that so ive thought about just sending it to a smith and having them square the action and throw the new barrel on. What kind of costs should I expect for this?

Other than this im not sure what else is possible.

What kind of cartridge development have you done? Whip barrels are made to be just as accurate standard barrels until they start heating up which is a lot sooner than standard. Some whip barrels may require 15 different recipes to find the one that your barrel shoots accurately. It seems to take forever to find a load because the barrel needs to cool before the next recipe is shot. Good luck.

 

[Blaketh]

I have posted over the past several months on possibly rebarreling my Remington 700 and im just lost and need help and suggestions. For those that don't know, here is the deal: I have a Remington 700 mountain SS with a pencil thin barrel in 3006. it shoots 1.5MOA which is fine for the hunting I do BUT it bugs me and it recoils a bit more than I would like. The recoil is no problem at all for when I hunt but when I sight it in every year or just shoot it for fun, it does tend to start hurting and cause me to flinch after about 15 rounds. I always like to get below 1 MOA with my reloads and have been able to do so with all my other rifles. Why the change you may ask? well I have built my wife two rifles in 7mm08 and 6.5CM. I absolutely LOVE shooting her rifles. Low to no recoil and they shoot .5MOA if I do my part. This has led me to want to rebarrel my Remington. I want to try and keep costs lower on this one so id prefer to re-use the stock and not have to buy a new bolt (if possible). The stock is a B&C stock (with aluminum bedding block) on the Remington mountain SS with a drop plate (no magazine). it has some meat which can be removed for inletting of a slightly thicker barrel but not too much. It should hold a sporter contour ok but maybe not much thicker. When I checked new bolts out, they would be 200$ which just doesn't fit my budget so that means I need to pick a caliber which fits the 3006 bolt that I have. I hunt primarily whitetails, definitely no Elk or anything big. Maybe the very rare black bear but doubtful. I do not hunt prone with this rifle nor do I want a brake on it. It is primarily tree-stand hunting and shooting house hunting with absolute max ranges being 400 yards but the norm would be under 200 yards. I am pretty sure I no longer want 3006 (partly because of recoil and partly because im just bored).

Number 1 thing is a sub 1 MOA rifle. It just bugs me when a rifle wont shoot under 1 MOA.

Number 2 is trying to make the current stock work which means not a thick contour. Again, my guess is not too much thicker than a sporter contour barrel would work ok. if I MUST, then I could buy a new B&C stock in regular sporter contour but now the build itself is getting into the territory of just buying a new rifle such as a Tikka or Sako A7 etc.

Number 3 is lower recoil than a 3006 in a ultralight barrel. I used to shoot 300 winmags but as ive been using my wife's rifles, ive been loving lower recoil.

What I know I dont want is another 3006 or a 270win. So here is what ive been contemplating but truly not sure what to do. I could go with 280ai and load it with 140 grain bullets to help tame recoil a bit and keep the gun shooting pretty flat. This way, should I ever want a power setup (elk), I could load it with 160s at full tilt and be ok but I think 140 grain bullets with a mid range powder charge should keep recoil lower than my current 3006 shooting 165 grain bullets. 280ai also allows for some factory ammo in a pinch.

Last question is, should I go remage? Ive done switch barrels with my savage rifles so I have a action vise and barrel nut wrench so that isn't a worry...inletting the new barrel is definitely the worry on this one. I have zero experience and I think id rather have a gunsmith do that so ive thought about just sending it to a smith and having them square the action and throw the new barrel on. What kind of costs should I expect for this?

Other than this im not sure what else is possible.

2506 you can even get like a 7.5 inch twist for 130 grainers for the higher bc

 

[73driver]

I don't not like the 270 but it is boring to me to be honest. Same with the 3006. Im looking at something new to try apart from my other reasons.

I get that, nothing more plain Jane "boring" than the 06 & 270. Thats why I went with the 270 just too darn easy. Easy to get ammo in good variety, easy to get reloading components for. I am finding the 6.5C to be the same, just too easy to get, get ammo for and to shoot.

 

[Bigeclipse]

If you're going to spend $500+ for a barrel conversion, why not just buy a new rifle?

This was the first brand new rifle I purchased so I wont sell it (plus im in NY which makes selling rifles even more challenging). I wont like it until it shoots sub 1MOA which means rebarreling. It has a great stock on it and an after market trigger already installed so with a nice barrel it will make for a decent semi-custom. Spending 500$ on a new rifle will not guarantee I wont get another lemon.

 

[Bigeclipse]

What kind of cartridge development have you done? Whip barrels are made to be just as accurate standard barrels until they start heating up which is a lot sooner than standard. Some whip barrels may require 15 different recipes to find the one that your barrel shoots accurately. It seems to take forever to find a load because the barrel needs to cool before the next recipe is shot. Good luck.

Ive tried 4 different bullets ranging from 150 to 180s with 3 different powders and 3 different primers. Ive sent probably a few hundred rounds down the tube. The odd thing is it shoots factory ammo about the same and I never got wildly bad groups either. Never anything over 2inch groups but also never anything under 1inch groups at 100 yards. Ive loaded for 4 other rifles (3 of which have after market barrels) and I was able to get sub 1 MOA easy on them 2 of which are consistent sub .5MOA (out to 400 yards at least).

 

[Jud96]

If you're going to spend $500+ for a barrel conversion, why not just buy a new rifle?

Because rebarreling a good action with a quality, custom barrel, guarantees it will shoot sub MOA. Buying a $500 rifle is gambling your money away. Even if it does shoot, it can still be picky and foul a lot more than a custom, hand lapped barrel. Why start over with a new rifle when he can fix the one he already has the right way?

 

[vancewalker007]

not sure how as most custom barrels I buy are 300+$. I was figuring 350$ for barrel and then 150$ for install.

If you do a Remage barrel your install will be almost nothing. I believe McGowen might even custom chamber one if you wanted say a 6.5-284 with a long throat.

https://mcgowenbarrel.com/

 

[Bigeclipse]

If you do a Remage barrel your install will be almost nothing. I believe McGowen might even custom chamber one if you wanted say a 6.5-284 with a long throat.

https://mcgowenbarrel.com/

I was thinking about remage, just not sure on what work it takes to make it fit in the stock I already own. I have changed savage barrels.

The thing I hear about remingtons though is the factory barrels are near impossible to remove which is causing me hesitation.