Problems with annealing by hand?

[Chamberman]

I used a 9/16 socket, tape down trigger so it rotates about once per second.

Set case into socket. Adjust torch until bright blue flame is about an inch long [fairly low setting], i then aim torch slightly downward angle right at the shoulder. Bright blue flame just about touching case. This leaves the case mouth above the flame. I do this is a dark room with door shut. Case changes color about 6-8 seconds. I watch the case mouth, see a faint glow and stop. I wear a welding glove on left hand for removing each case.

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This is how I do it and it works great- never had an issue. DO NOT QUENCH THE CASES- just drop them in a glass cake pan or something and let them cool.

 

[Pdvdh]

Purchased and used tempilaq in a couple different temperature ranges. Tried it. Proved too difficult to see color change for me.

Haven't used it for many years now. Don't even know if I could find it or kept it. I use a battery operated drill with a universal case holder which grips the case heads in their extraction groove. Works good for me.

Never gonna spend $500 on an automated annealing machine. I hunt long range. Don't shoot 1000yd benchrest competition. So don't know if those guys actually benefit or not. I did watch a couple YouTube videos by Erik Cortina, who competes professionally. Here's a couple YouTube links posted by Erik, which provide a good visual demonstration of cartidge case annealing.

 

[ButterBean]

This is how I do it and it works great- never had an issue. DO NOT QUENCH THE CASES- just drop them in a glass cake pan or something and let them cool.

Quenching won't hurt anything, I don't simply because I don't want to wait on my cases to dry

 

[jrock]

I started into annealing because I found that seating bullets required extra force and were not seating consistently. I've never had issues with case failures. I tried the drill and socket method and it worked great. Simple and safe. However, it was too slow. I wanted something with a hopper with automated feed and time-in-flame control. For about $50 I made one from ebay parts. Its pretty basic but now I get consistent results from case to case. That seems to help. It was worth the time investment.

 

[Mike Matteson]

I ruined some 25-06 cases years ago when I didn't know any better. Stood them up in a pan of water and torched the necks until they started to turn red then tipped them over into water. Loaded them and the necks were dead soft - got them too hot. If the shoulders survived seating bullets, then they collapsed on firing. I think the necks didn't seal the chamber and gas pressure got as far back as the shoulders (which were also soft) and caved them in. Only shot 2 of them and quit.

I read as much as I could find about annealing temps after that and had better success. I now run a Giraud. Not for accuracy reasons, although it might help. I do it to save brass. I was splitting necks on up to 15% of my brass at 4-6 firings. Since using to Giraud, zero brass lost to split necks - they go until the primer pockets loosen - 12-20 firings.

I have used the old pan and water trick for years, Stop the neck splitting, and it became the primer pocket that would go. I didn't have the problems that were mention above. I was very careful on the heat on the necks. Now I going to the high end anealer. I am changing my whole reloading process completely. Thanks to Long Range Shooting. Somethings I was and had been doing correctly and others not so good, but I got most of the rifles to 1/2" grouping at 100yds with my system of reloading. Shortly I will see if I can't tighten up on my groups. I am looking forward to see what I can do with the new processes, brass, and brass prep. I work on two lines. Velocity, and Accuracy. Both have to be there or I won't use them. 25-06 was my main go to rifle for years. Sized 270, 30-06 case to 25-06 cases. Never has that problem. I didn't have the primer pocket loosen up either.

 

[rewiltshire]

I use a Ken Light annealing machine. Great product at less than half the price of the AMP.

One of my friends has one similar to the Ken Light machine. Has different wheels for different size cases. You can sit there and drop the cases in and let it do it thing. Only problem I encounter, when doing 40-65 or 45-70 cases I must push them up from the bottom. Better be fast or you will pinch your fingers (and stop the wheel from turning). But then I didn't have to spend $500+, I just borrow it at the end of the season. All it cost me is the bottles of propane and the heat from the flames help keep me warm in the winter.

 

[Bob Wright]

Socket and torch method works great and no blisters. I dump them into water straight from the socket. Brass does not quench harden, so no damage done there.

 

[7MMMagnum]

Seeing my Lapua brass was annealed from the manufacturer, I was interested in re-annealing the brass so I contacted Lapua and asked them for recommendations for how often and any other information they cared to share. They wrote back that they did not recommend re-annealing Lapua brand of brass. They stated that over and or under annealing their brass ruined it. I was a little shocked because I have read many forums of folks re-annealing their brass.


This is the actual response I received from Lapua.

LAPUA brass is made in such a way that it lasts for many more firings than other makes of cartridge cases . We do not advise any re- annealing of our brass due to the many down sides of this . If the brass is over or under annealed its ruined .

 

[JMW67]

well I guess I have ruined all my lapua brass for years

 

[ButterBean]

well I guess I have ruined all my lapua brass for years

Me too

 

[brentru]

How can you ruin brass by "under annealing"??? Technically, if you under anneal, you haven't annealed it. Going too hot and/or too long can absolutely ruin brass.

 

[7MMMagnum]

well I guess I have ruined all my lapua brass for years

I took it as a manufacturer disclaimer involving correct vs incorrect annealing. Sounds like you have it down pat. I am trying to learn how to do it correctly.

 

[jrock]

There is a really good conversation about the science of annealing that happened here awhile ago. Good info if you can find it. It has an 'over' and 'under' annealing discussion. I tell beginners, "consistency is what we are striving for." If you are getting consistent results without annealing, then keep doing what you are doing. I think at some point, that consistency will fade. Brass will eventually work harden. Then the options are annealing or tossing the brass. Why not try annealing to avoid buying new brass?

Over the last year, or two, I've annealed every other firing. Now I'm wondering if I should do every firing or wait longer. Needs testing.

 

[JMW67]

there is a bunch of good info here just read up then experiment on some crap brass it is not a difficult operation at all If I can do it so can you I promise