Salt Bath Annealing Doesn't Work! by AMP

[ntsqd]

I've started acquiring the bits to build my own. A Lyman lead furnace and an industrial PID temperature controller. What I'd really like to do is automate the immersion time, but I haven't quite wrapped my head around how I'm going to do that. So in the mean time I'll make a SS disc like I've seen in some of the kits.

 

[entoptics]

...What I'd really like to do is automate the immersion time, but I haven't quite wrapped my head around how I'm going to do that. So in the mean time I'll make a SS disc like I've seen in some of the kits.

Without some complicated robotics, that doesn't seem tenable.

I think the metronome method is adequate. I set my metronome to double the speed I want, and that gives me proper warning when the dip/draw stroke is coming.

Something else to consider is how level your pot is if you're "double dipping". I carefully level it before starting, and also rotate the cases during the soak, so I get the same annealing depth for both cases.

 

[cshootersolutions]

I've started acquiring the bits to build my own. A Lyman lead furnace and an industrial PID temperature controller. What I'd really like to do is automate the immersion time, but I haven't quite wrapped my head around how I'm going to do that. So in the mean time I'll make a SS disc like I've seen in some of the kits.

If you want to avoid the hassle of drilling SS, check out cshootersolutions at etsy.com.

 

[entoptics]

If you want to avoid the hassle of drilling SS, check out cshootersolutions at etsy.com.

If you do choose to build your own, be sure to make the holes plenty big, and also make sure to use thick enough stock.

I overbored mine a hundredth or so, and they still stick a little going in and out for my 300WM.

Perhaps more importantly, I used relatively thin aluminum for the bottom drop stop, and at 500° C that stuff is SOOOOOFFFFT. I find myself constantly having to rebend it to keep the two cases the same depth. I'd go with at least 1/16th stainless or similar for both parts to avoid this problem.

 

[Wedgy]

I also drilled a couple holes in the Lee base plate and screwed it to a 3/4" piece of plywood so there's no way the melting pot can get tipped over. That stuff will burn you really bad if it spills, and wear glasses too.

 

[ntsqd]

Yeah, let me tell about an infrared patio heater we R&D'd at a former employer. Had a reflector spun out of aluminum (after first using a big SS mixing bowl!). After a couple full burn cycles you could not even touch that AL reflector w/o distorting it. It was DEAD soft. The heater was awesome though. Too bad it got buried in Borla's TN warehouse building, likely to never see the light of day again.

Drilling holes in SS sheet/plate is no big deal. Hand tapping blind 10-32 holes in a ~$200k SS vacuum chamber will get your attention.

Could use 80/20 to build a simple 2 axis "robot". The timer function & motor controls could be handled by an arduino or similar. I'd need to dig into that a bit more. Fortunately have a good ref guy at work. It's more the actual handling of the cases, an "endeffector" if you will, that is trickier to pull off.

Thinking cshootersolutions is my best bet for the salt itself.

 

[raider1v1]

I've started acquiring the bits to build my own. A Lyman lead furnace and an industrial PID temperature controller. What I'd really like to do is automate the immersion time, but I haven't quite wrapped my head around how I'm going to do that. So in the mean time I'll make a SS disc like I've seen in some of the kits.

What pid did you get? Is it an assembled unit or are you building your own box?

 

[ntsqd]

It is an Omega C9000A that a friend gave me. I think he was using it to control a kegerator, but with him you never know. He could have been using it to distill Heavy water or to keep his peanut butter at the perfect spreading temperature. Probably over-kill for this use.

 

[raider1v1]

It is an Omega C9000A that a friend gave me. I think he was using it to control a kegerator, but with him you never know. He could yeshave been using it to distill Heavy water or to keep his peanut butter at the perfect spreading temperature. Probably over-kill for this use.

Yes it is!

 

[JimmyCP]

Wow this thread is still going. Simple, believe AMP or believe everyone else that knows it's helped them get consistant proveable results.

I used this forum for a long time before I became a member and I have received more intelligent information on reloading, shooting and hunting from members actual experience that has exceeded any hoopla from manufacturers.
I know what works for me and others. I've tried almost every suggestions there are for consistency and saving the life of my brass.

It must be a miracle and God answered my calling and an act of God got my grouping and life of brass better because according to 1manufacturer I've been waisting my time.

 

[bowkill02]

If you want to avoid the hassle of drilling SS, check out cshootersolutions at etsy.com.

I've recently acquired one of your plates. Shipping was fast and very reasonable. I have already reccomended it to a few friends.

 

[LongProng]

I've recently acquired one of your plates. Shipping was fast and very reasonable. I have already reccomended it to a few friends.

I use one as well. Excellent product!

 

[DartonJager]

so whats the summary here after 9 pages? we throwing our salt systems in the trash? or are they still OK?

after reading this my thoughts are they are still ok.

You do what you wish, but I'm going to continue using my SBA kit. Although I haven't annealed hundreds of cases, I have annealed at least 100 each of 300wsm and 35 Remington cases 3x each and four subsequent loading's and firings and have experienced no issues what so ever. I openly admit I am among the least knowledgeable on the subject of annealing brass and I have at best minimal experience with annealing brass. I use my FLUKE meter and temp probe to set and them closely monitor the temp of my molten salt and anneal at 800-850*/F for 5 seconds using a metronome app on my phone.

I don't wish to be disrespectful or confrontational, but the question that begs asking is why should AMP expect anyone to place any faith in or accept as having ANY degree of objectivity or impartiality any study that THEY paid for of one of their main if not largest competitors annealing systems? And why would AMP even bother to conduct and pay for such a study if SB annealing wasn't affecting their sales? I mean why pay for for and then use negative advertising to attack a competitor if said competitor posed no to only minimal threat to your financial bottom line?

I would say this of any study performed in such a manor. I MIGHT have some degree of faith in AMP's evaluation of a competitors annealing system if it cost within 5-10% of the AMP not 1/10th. Lets face economical facts most reloaders can afford to spend and or risk under $200 on a piece of reloading equipment, especially one that essentially cant wear out and if the most expensive component fails or wears out LEE will replace it for free less shipping.

What is the warranty on the AMP? I have visited the WS more than a few times out of curiosity more than anything else and never saw a mention of any warranty only if an owner encounters any issues to contact support. I will give AMP the benefit of the doubt and assume they have a killer warranty as they should, but given the size and weight and likely fragile nature of the AMP annealing unit if you have to ship it back to them S/H& INS would likely be rather costly especially if you end up paying both ways.

The way I would $um it up is the AMP annealing machine is for reloaders who can afford $4-$6k on a precision rifle and optics set up. SBA is for the remaining 90%+ of reloaders who wish they could but cant.

 

[LongProng]

so whats the summary here after 9 pages? we throwing our salt systems in the trash? or are they still OK?

after reading this my thoughts are they are still ok.

I agree with DartonJager. I'd also add that it looks like the SBA method could use some tweaks for best effect. I am going to set mine to 550c and dip for 8-10s for now (28 Nosler) until such a time we find a higher temp salt that is suitable.