Primer pockets primers hard to get in.

There are large rifle and small rifle versions of 6.5 Creedmoor brass. I doubt that you could get a large rifle primer into a small rifle primer pocket, cleaned or not.
Probably right....just throwing it out there! There is about 7 thou difference between the two...so maybe enough to crush one in if the pocket is tight! Just me!
 
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Some of the guys have already covered this but my primer prep comes from my benchrest comp days. With either brand new unfired brass or once fired I first inside debur the flash hole with a piloted cutter (I have an old sinclair). You have to do this only the first time. Then I uniform the primer pocket using one of the tools already discussed. The primer pocket tool is also good for removing carbon on subsequent firings. I use it gently after every firing to clean the pocket. If you are tumbling make sure there isnt any media in the flash hole. I now do all my priming with a hand tool using only thumb pressure to feel the resistance. I have had primers "pop in" meaning there was resistance as the primer passed through the beginning of the pocket opening before seating. You also want to seat the primer slightly below the case head. I have heard that it should be a few thou below the head but I have never measured mine. As someone mentioned, if in doubt, put the primed brass on a flat surface and make sure they don't wobble on a slightly protruding primer. I don't know how much resistance you are feeling but this is an interference fit to keep the primer in the pocket against the force of firing. But to answer your question cleaning the pocket every firing is quite normal for comp or LR shooters who want that primer seated consistently and are looking for very low ES and group sizes and long distances.
 
I am reloading form fired Brass and having to clean every primer pocket to get the new primer to seat. Is this a normal condition.
I just started to reload rifle rounds have been loading shot shells for years.
I have run into this with Hornady's 308 white tail ammunition.looking at the primer pockets with my big glasses it looked like a ring crimp/stamped around the primer.i used my Lyman primer pocket tool and removed a little brass where the primer starts and it worked fine.before I removed that little bit I could not get a primer to go at all
 
I have run into this with Hornady's 308 white tail ammunition.looking at the primer pockets with my big glasses it looked like a ring crimp/stamped around the primer.i used my Lyman primer pocket tool and removed a little brass where the primer starts and it worked fine.before I removed that little bit I could not get a primer to go at all
Exactly, I experienced the same thing (see earlier post). Any idea why they do that ?
 
Exactly, I experienced the same thing (see earlier post). Any idea why they do that ?
No I don't.my wife gave me 2 boxes of 150's a they shot good I went to reload after doing the flash holes and cleaning primer pockets and could not even start a primer but it sure looked like a stamped ring around the primer hole to me and I have loaded for over 40 years
 
I've run into this problem a couple of times with commercial (never crimped-in primer) brass. If you have different brands of primers suitable for your brass, I'd give them a try. Sometimes less than one-thousand of an inch difference can make a primer easy or hard to seat. And, by the way, it's always a good idea to start new or once-fired brass with a primer pocket "uniforming" using a simple hand-held tool. I use the same tool to remove the thin layer of residue left when the round is fired. -Ed
This ^^^
When I have run into it, it's been brand thing.
 
No I don't.my wife gave me 2 boxes of 150's a they shot good I went to reload after doing the flash holes and cleaning primer pockets and could not even start a primer but it sure looked like a stamped ring around the primer hole to me and I have loaded for over 40 years
 

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