Primer flame size?

Dean 2, so what I have been finding on line is that I need a magnum primer. Your recommendation of standard primer caught my attention.
Thinking about it the 6mmbr works so well with Sm Rifle Primer.
With the fast burning pistol powders, because there is so little of it in a case, you need the magnum primer to ensure they light because there often isn't enough powder to cover the flash hole. It is why we used to use a thin paper wad over the powder then fill with corn meal. It keeps the powder in place. Some guys used Dacron to do the same thing but results were more variable with it.

That is the whole beauty of Trail Boss. It is large, flakey and fills the case pretty well even at 1000 fps. In that case, the standard primer works better, and the heavy bullets ensure even ignition, a small crimp helps too. Some guys have tried to use pistol primers, which I do use in 22 H for standard and sub loads but I did not find they worked as well with Trail Boss as the regualr rifle primers do in larger cases.
 
cohunt , so a normal large rifle primer flashhole is .080 , what do you enlarge to? Have plenty Green Dot to work with along with TRail Boss.
 
Thanks , just what looking for to help deciding on what to use for low powder charge subsonic loads.
A great place to start is with a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. These have numerous reduced loads for most of the popular calibers. Since it is for hard cast lead bullets, we just start our jacketed loads a couple of grains less per bullet weight. With a little experimentation, some real accurate reduced loads can be created.

Some of my favorite small game and cast BR loads for centerfire rifles have been derived from using their initial data.
 
This is not my data. I think it came from a 6mmbr.com page, but I don't rightly remember. I use this chart for my personal reference only...

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Being a cast boolit shooter ... enlarging the flash hole is used there too for reduced loads. But when I've used it, I had recipes from well known shooters and reloaders, e.g., Larry Gibson, to replicate.
without larger flash holes, what did you have, hang fires ?
 
This is not my data. I think it came from a 6mmbr.com page, but I don't rightly remember. I use this chart for my personal reference only...

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No idea who did up this chart but it isn't close to anything else I have ever seen and it doesn't match my personal experience. The idea that a CCI 250 is a hotter primer than the Winchester Mag is the most obvious, as is the Fed 215 match scoring hotter than the 215 regular primer. Not a real big deal but a tad misleading I think.
 
... it doesn't match my personal experience. The idea that a CCI 250 is a hotter primer than the Winchester Mag is the most obvious, as is the Fed 215 match scoring hotter than the 215 regular primer. Not a real big deal but a tad misleading ...
The source of the data was inthe link I provided. And to your experience, you may believe what you think is hotter- and they may very well be - but note the testing tested 'power', not 'heat'. Without replicating such a test to any repeatable reference (note the Tester tested most for 100 primers per brand/type in a test fixture), am not sure what you could be 'seeing' in regards to allegedly one being 'hotter'.

Not a challenge to you per se, just a curious observation. To me, I think the difference is that 'power' may only be 1 aspect of primer brisance, as that's why you may seeing it differently.

In similar testing, but of more scientific testing I've seen of muzzleloading caps, they tested 5 'burn' aspects - power, peak temperature of the ignition, peak distance/length of the flame, time/duration of the flame and ash buildup as a by-product of combustion. In those tests, it determined that the 'magnum' caps where indeed hotter in power and temperature, but were extremely dirty and had a shorter flame length and duration, which could be why for percussion arms with convoluted, i.e., not straight, flame channels [think Sharps paper cutter] they may work for a few shots, but then foul again, leading to misfires. Note this scenario does not apply to centerfires as the case is changed between shots.
 
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The source of the data was inthe kink I provided. And to your experience, you may believe what you think is hotter- and they may very well be - but not the testing tested 'power', not 'heat'.

Without replicating such a test to any repeatable reference (note the Tester tested most for 100 primers per brand/type in a test fixture), am not sure what you could be 'seeing' in regards to allegedly one being 'hotter'. Not a challenge to you per se, just a curious observation.
Not going by feel, if you look at brisiance tests from most other places it doesn't match. Check out the 6br pages as well as the host of other primer tests. Accurate shooter has an article ultimate large rifle primer shoot out. There are a bunch of links on the same page to other primer tests.




Table 1 – Average MVs in ascending order


MildWarmHot
Remington 9½M*2,780CCI-2002,795CBC Magtech 9½ LR2,801
Norma Superflash (1980s)2,781PMC LRM (Murom KVB-7M)*2,795Federal 215M*†2,803
CCI-250*2,782Winchester WLR2,807
Murom KVB-72,782Remington 9½ LR2,815
Kynoch (1970/80s vintage)2,783
Sellier & Bellot LR2,787
CCI-BR2†2,787
Federal 2102,788
Fiocchi LR2,788
Federal 210M†2,790




Notes: * = 'magnum' primer model. † = 'match' primer. The Kynoch primers were probably made by Norma, so are the same product under two names.
 
MagnumManic, I ask because trying to create Subsonic loads using flake powders in small (223) to large (308) cases. Powders I have on hand to try are Blue Dot, Green Dot, Win. WST and Trail Boss. I do have both Standard and Magnum primers to use. I am currently getting more vertical shots than I like to have. Thanks
Sorry, I missed this question.
If you are using very reduced loads with fast pistol/shotgun powders, the best thing you can do is use a filler. I use reduced loads in my Nitro Express cartridges for Big Game Rifle Club simulation….all that's needed is a hole in the target. The other targets actually require regulation power factor loads.
I use curtain rod foam filler. It comes in different sizes, most commonly used for me is 1/2" & 3/4". You just cut it the same length as the case, charge with powder, poke the foam filler in and seat a bullet on top.

Cheers.
 
I am working on the same for 308 subs. I have been using tin star since I could not find trail boss. I am shooting 200g Bullets and I am getting a flier on first shot and then 2 that are 1/2" apart. I have ordered a crimp die to see if that helps. I have some green dot and mag primers but I am getting good groups and stable at 100 yrds from the first shot. Very frustrating but fun.

Thanks

Buck
 
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