Please school me on breaks

[Zen Archery]

Don't over think it.

 

[RWeeks7mm]

I went with the Harrell's Precision Stainless Steel Radial Brake in 1.5" diam, mostly because my barrel is 1.25" diam and wanted a brake that functioned well and fit the diam. Also because my gunsmith recommended Harrell's. My gunsmith turned it down to almost barrel diam. and bead blasted it. I will say that it has reduced the recoil of my 7mm RM down to about .270 Win. it does make it a lot louder for bystanders though. Take it for what you will.

 

[Panhandle Pete]

Just go buy a suppressor, and then you'll have about 8 months to think about brakes, after which you'll never care about them again.

Better response to brakes is a suppressor. Brakes certainly increase the report level and will blow dirt and debris depending on the brake. Suppressed all the way, it will make shooting more enjoyable for all concerned.

 

[Bull_Mtn]

I have had Gentry Quiet Muzzle Brakes installed on 5 rifles over the years. One was on a Weatherby Vanguard .308, that I had a gunsmith convert into a "grandkids" rifle. I found out quickly the ear protection was a must, but my 11 year old grandson never complained about recoil. His son killed his first elk with that rifle, 3 years ago. The rifle is currently being used by my hunting partner's grandson. It's been loaned to relatives and friends so many times, I have to keep a record of who has it now!

 

[KSB209]

Are they a pain to take off and put back on? I just want it as an option if I were to take the kids to the range but I don't think I would hunt with one.

 

[Lefty G-gear]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

I'd forego the brake for a .308, and maybe, if I had the money, buy a suppressor instead!
Wyoming allows them, plus hi-cap mags during hunting season. (Bring your .308 AR.)
The brakes I have used on a .338 RUM, and 6.5 PRC are too loud. - I sold the concussion-inducing .338 RUM, tried one on the PRC rifle that already has threads on it from Mossberg, then removed it, and put the threaded protector back on it. = I don't need a brake, cuz they will make you say, "Give me a break!" Hindsight is 20/20. - My 2-cents, that costs 6-cents to make.

 

[Lefty G-gear]

Or, just use a lighter bullet: 125-gr.

.308/7.62x51mm Ammo rifle 125 grains

In-stock best prices for 308/7.62x51mm Ammo rifle 125 grains | Cheap 308/7.62x51mm Ammunition rifle 125 grains - AmmoSeek.com

ammoseek.com

But, if you get a brake, the longer self-timing ones work better than a shorter one.

rifle brakes threaded self timing - Google Search

These work too (longer even) on a RUM, if you can stand concussions at the bench. (?)
Shooting off-hand, in the open while standing, it actually kept it stationary - no muzzle rise! = The Good, the Bad, and the Concussions.

 

[D$tring]

Just go buy a suppressor, and then you'll have about 8 months to think about brakes, after which you'll never care about them again.

Yes!! This!!

 

[highdrum]

Check out the M41 brakes from Precision Armament. I've got one on my 300wm. I'm not sure you can beat it.
Good luck

Everyone says the hypertap from PA is better than than the M41. I have no experience with their products however. I see a lot of them in the prs game, as well as the APA g3 fat bastard.

 

[ARlife4me]

I bought a less than $50 brake for a 30cal that is extremely effective. Don't remember the brand, but it weighed over 2#. 1st installed on a Savage 110 300wm, but changed over to a Savage 110 338lm. Recoil is almost 0. I mic'd it for safety and it had .020" over bullet diameter (.358"). 1 of the quieter brakes used. Ultradyne is loud, but very effective. Lantac works good on certain cartridges and barrel lengths. Radial brakes from prone kick up debris, but ae good otherwise. I probably have 2k$ worth of various brakes, because 1 size doesn't fit (work) all.

 

[TxHeartShot]

Brakes

school's out!

 

[Stgraves260]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

I'll explain the best I can. A 1 piece break would be a screw on type. The rifle barrel would need to be threaded for the break to be attached. On the 2 piece breaks there 2 different types that I know of. One would be a bolt on break ( meaning there will be several screws to bolt it together to the barrel and the barrel does not need to be threaded ) another type of two piece break would be like the barrel would have to be threaded, then a nut would go on then you can add a thread protector, the break, or a suppressor. I'll see if I can get some pics for you.

 

[Stgraves260]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...e-2p-self-timing-muzzle-brake-prod123914.aspx this is one type of two piece break where the barrel would have to be threaded. You can remove the break part and add a suppressor without break the crush ring from the barrel.

 

[Stgraves260]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...e-2p-self-timing-muzzle-brake-prod123914.aspx this is one type of two piece break where the barrel would have to be threaded. You can remove the break part and add a suppressor without break the crush from the barrel.