Please school me on breaks

[Stgraves260]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

https://grizzlygunworks.com/clamp-on-muzzle-brakes/ this is a clamp on ( sometime called a 2 piece muzzle break because it comes in 2 pieces. Some friends of mine and myself have this one and it works really good. It is on 2-7 Remington Magnums and they kick like 243 Win. The ports face up which is what you want so that way if you are laying on the ground for whatever reason you do not kick up dust and get it all over yourself, your optics, or blow stuff off the table if on a bench.

 

[JustMe2]

I'll explain the best I can. A 1 piece break would be a screw on type. The rifle barrel would need to be threaded for the break to be attached. On the 2 piece breaks there 2 different types that I know of. One would be a bolt on break ( meaning there will be several screws to bolt it together to the barrel and the barrel does not need to be threaded ) another type of two piece break would be like the barrel would have to be threaded, then a nut would go on then you can add a thread protector, the break, or a suppressor. I'll see if I can get some pics for you.

It's not a break. It's a brake as corrected by many above.

 

[smokey3]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

You could start out with spelling it correctly

 

[Stgraves260]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

https://www.opticsplanet.com/area-419-sidewinder-magnum-self-timing-barrel-muzzle-brake.html. Go down to where it says features. When the port is removed for whatever reason and then reinstalled the ports will all ways face the proper direction. The ports I do believe face out the side and not the top or bottom.

 

[JustMe2]

Check out this website evaluating many brakes.
https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/ar-15-muzzle-brake-shootout-3/

I use a Hypertap 4-port, self-timing, 2-piece brake manufactured by Precision Armament and a Fat Bastard 3-port and like the Hypertap better. That's my only brake experience. As already said, many PRS competitors use the Hypertap because it works so well.

 

[FEENIX]

Am I the only guy who times my 1 pc brakes myself

No.

 

[Wolf01]

I would have to smuggle it into CA in my "prison wallet"

Hahahahahahahaha

 

[Stgraves260]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

I'll explain the type of breaks I use if it helps. My main rule is I never use a break with ports that face down. I hunt with all my rifles. I'm not a bench rest shooter. When ports face down they tend to blow everything all over the place. Now depending on what type of rifle scope/optics you plan on using like thermal or night vision will let you know what direction you need the ports to face. If using a day scope, meaning not night vision or thermal I'll get a break with ports out both sides and the top. If I'm using a night vision or a thermal scope I alway use my suppressor, but if that is not a option for you then get a break that has ports facing only out the sides. The reason being I don't like ports coming out the top of my night vision or thermal scope is because the flash that comes out the ports. Sometimes the flash messes with those type of scopes. Hope this helps.

 

[DR Ray]

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

For a 12 year old the 308 might be a bit much & start the child flinching. I suggest a very mild say very light bullet. Muzzle brakes! Yes but noise is a major factor (obviously using ear muffs) but probably a good idea and as the child gets older/more experienced then use full loads etc. Last thing you want is the shooter developing a flinch!

 

[DWier]

For a 12 year old the 308 might be a bit much & start the child flinching. I suggest a very mild say very light bullet. Muzzle brakes! Yes but noise is a major factor (obviously using ear muffs) but probably a good idea and as the child gets older/more experienced then use full loads etc. Last thing you want is the shooter developing a flinch!

My daughter at 12 killed a deer with 7-08 with factory loads. Said she didn't feel it kick. If target shooting I'm sure she would feel it.

 

[Ken61]

I timed my brake with a piece of wet or dry sandpaper on a flat surface doing a figure 8 pattern.
Then I canned my brakes and use suppressors.

 

[wyoalfafarm]

Check out wittmachine.net . They make brakes, reasonably price suppressors and what they call "sound mitigation equipment" which is a brake with a shroud that pushes the sound and blast forward. Kinda like a suppressor with the front open and no paper work.

 

[John Roland]

Take a look at utube markandsamafterwork.

I'm building a new rifle and want to put a break on it so my kids can shoot it without too much trouble. It's a 308 so the recoil is pretty mild for me but maybe not a 12 year old. So, what is the difference between 1 piece and 2 piece, self timing, and port position?

I've done a lot of reading on breaks and it seems like a lot of info is more opinions. I know they work for recoil reduction because I have shot rifles with and without them. How do 1 piece vs. 2 piece breaks work and why would you choose one over the other?

There are a lot of opinions on port position and direction (90 degree vs forward vs rear facing ports). What gives? It's tough to understand when 1 manufacture says one thing then another says the complete opposite ( I understand marketing but dang it's confusing). Do ports on top really effect rifle positioning for follow up shots because it pushes the muzzle down???

This rifle is going to be my primary hunting rig but I also plan on spending a lot of time behind it at the range. I'll probably use a break at the range but hunt without it. I know I will have to confirm zero if and when I take off or put on the break.

Anyways I would love to hear from you guys that have used and experimented with different types of breaks.

 

[ButterBean]

school's out!

No Sir it is not !