M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
I was actually wanting to see the other one w/ wood stock, And how well you got the barrel to fit.
Planning a 250 Savage Build - Two Barrels, Many Questions
- Thread starter OutsideBill
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
It fits. Full clearance back to the nut, but not much. The stock had plenty of wood to accommodate without getting paper thin on the sides of the barrel. I think it really needs to be glassed. There's all kinds of movement until it gets really torqued down.
std7mag
Well-Known Member
One thing about the Axis.
If you are planning on doing any trigger work, there is a spring loaded piece where the trigger assembly attaches to the action.
If that piece isn't pressed to the action, the trigger and more importantly the safety doesn't work properly.
I found this out putting a Rifle Basix trigger on a Axis.
I used a small wood working clamp to hold it into place while I had the stock off to adjust the trigger.
If you are planning on doing any trigger work, there is a spring loaded piece where the trigger assembly attaches to the action.
If that piece isn't pressed to the action, the trigger and more importantly the safety doesn't work properly.
I found this out putting a Rifle Basix trigger on a Axis.
I used a small wood working clamp to hold it into place while I had the stock off to adjust the trigger.
std7mag
Well-Known Member
Action screw torque is 35inlb on the action screws.
If you follow the action screw torque tuning, the front screw get tightened to 35inlb, the rear may be as low as 15inlb.
You bring up a good point and a concern about the Axis action. I noticed there is movement of the trigger assembly, and I'll go back and look at that more closely so I don't mess that up. Also, the matter of action torque is a bit bothersome, and that's what I was referring to when I said there was a lot of movement. As I'm torquing the action down, the end by the safety moves a lot right up until I approach that 35lb mark on the rear bolt. It certainly doesn't feel like it's settling into a perfect fit. Rather, it's like it's being wedged down into a poorly fit slot. With well fit actions, I'm used to them fitting snug with very little movement during the torquing sequence.
std7mag
Well-Known Member
You can bed it.
With several caveats.
I'd only skim bed that area.
And i'd use something hard, like Devcon, not Acraglass.
With several caveats.
I'd only skim bed that area.
And i'd use something hard, like Devcon, not Acraglass.
1raggedhole
Active Member
Or Marine-Tex for the skim. When you get to reloading, the 100-grain Partition may turn out to be your grandson's best friend. Far better than any C&C.
I'll need to see if I can find a good Youtube video on bedding the Axis. The fact that the lug is in the stock and not on the action might present some challenges.
Is C&C cup and core? I'm curious. The 250 Savage round isn't very hot, and he's probably only going to be using it small deer and hogs. I would have assumed the Partition wouldn't be necessary. My plan was to find a hunting bullet that the rifle shot well. But maybe I'm missing something.?
std7mag
Well-Known Member
Marine-Tex might be good also. It's supposed to be hard.
You can use some clear nail polish to hold the recoil lug into the action.
Put the barreled action upside down, paint the lug with the nail polish and insert into the slot.
Give it a push forward, towards the barrel & let dry.
Liberal amounts of whichever release agent!!!
Scuff up the wood or synthetic.
If synthetic, spray with starter fluid (outside!!).
Automotive adhesion promoter on synthetic stock.
I don't gloop the heck out of the bedding material.
A nice maybe 1/8" thick coat.
Back at the trigger, maybe 1/16" thick.
Don't forget to liberally coat the action screws with release agent!!
I usually only torque the action screws to 10-15inlb for bedding.
As for bullets in the 250 Savage.
90gr Sierra BlitzKing work well for varmints and coyotes out to 400 yards. Possibly further, but 400 is my furthest so far.
Partitions work well in any caliber for big game. But if you can't find them reasonably priced, there are other options.
The 100gr Nosler Ballistic Tip worked for the 2 deer I got with the 250 Savage. Both pass through. One hit a branch and hit the deer sideways. And exited sideways also.
You can use some clear nail polish to hold the recoil lug into the action.
Put the barreled action upside down, paint the lug with the nail polish and insert into the slot.
Give it a push forward, towards the barrel & let dry.
Liberal amounts of whichever release agent!!!
Scuff up the wood or synthetic.
If synthetic, spray with starter fluid (outside!!).
Automotive adhesion promoter on synthetic stock.
I don't gloop the heck out of the bedding material.
A nice maybe 1/8" thick coat.
Back at the trigger, maybe 1/16" thick.
Don't forget to liberally coat the action screws with release agent!!
I usually only torque the action screws to 10-15inlb for bedding.
As for bullets in the 250 Savage.
90gr Sierra BlitzKing work well for varmints and coyotes out to 400 yards. Possibly further, but 400 is my furthest so far.
Partitions work well in any caliber for big game. But if you can't find them reasonably priced, there are other options.
The 100gr Nosler Ballistic Tip worked for the 2 deer I got with the 250 Savage. Both pass through. One hit a branch and hit the deer sideways. And exited sideways also.
Great info! I need to pick a reloading manual and start learning.
1raggedhole
Active Member
Pick up a Nosler manual. The Hornady is WAY too conservative. Edited by lawyers. C&C is cup 'n core.
