One piece vs two piece bases

[Chas1]

+1 w/phorwath.

 

[Pdvdh]

I wanted to add that my perspective is certainly based on my "typical" hunting scenarios, which is backpack hunting involving hikes of 2 to 10 miles up riverbeds, climbing mountainsides, fighting some alders & devils club & brush. I try to protect my scopes from as many lumps and bumps as possible, but they still happen, and when they do I want the mounting system that increases the likelihood that the scope has not been jarred out of zero. It still happens every now and then. Enough so that I've learned that anytime the scope has incurred a significant impact, it is always best to recheck zero. It doesn't feel one bit good to put in all that preparation time for the hunt to develop a confident, accurate load, only to incur a miss after hiking in 8 miles and scaling a mountain - because the riflescope's zero has been impacted on the trip/scramble in to position for the shot on the game animal.

So there's a lot more packing involved in my typical hunts than shooting. The more packing, the more likely to suffer a change in zero.

 

[adam.WI]

Just found this post and really liked the premise, I had been thinking of doing something of this nature hence the search, and I figure this is about perfect. So thanks for the past post Hoss.

Put the Bases on like this (1 or 2 pc) and you are home free:

First use 400 paper then steel 000 steel wool and acetone and rough the contact area of the receiver and then do the same to the contact area of the base.

Use a cotton ball with acetone to clean any residual off of the receiver contact area and the base or bases. Set aside the base and be careful not to touch the clean areas. Use a little paste wax on the tip of a toothpick to apply into the threaded areas on the receiver. Apply a very thin layer to the screw threads and to the bottom half of the screw head. Set screws on a clean shop towel -- you get the idea.

Now use JB Weld (regular not the quick set as it for what ever reason does not work as well) because it can be heated and removed easier should you want to remove this later on. Mix it and use just a little die if you have it to more closely match the color of the bases and receiver. After mixing on your little piece of cardboard or index card set aside for a few minutes.

Get your propane torch and heat the contact area of the receiver and the contact area of the bases just enough to bring out any moisture that may be present on the surface. When the bases and receiver have cooled back to less than 100 degrees (this will not take long because you did not heat them up that much) using the toothpick that you used to mix the JB put a small amount on the receiver mating surface and on the base mating surface. Don't worry about it oozing now carefully place the bases lining up the screw holes as closely as possible and gingerly set the base on the receiver---immediately place the screws in the holes and get all of them started a few turns.

Now that the screws are started give a turn to one and move to the next screw. Repeat process until they are all snug then tighten each one to its final tension. This is important-----DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. We do not want all of the epoxy to be completely squeezed out.

Now leave the rifle in the vise and let sit for 5 minutes or so (I use rubber inserts so that the barrel can be clamped in) and get your capful of WD 40, cotton balls and Q-tips. First use dry q tips to remove most of the excess then take a cotton ball and dip a small portion in the WD 40 and very gingerly wipe down the areas you just removed the excess JB. You will notice that it comes of very easy but make sure not to press to hard on the edges where the base and receiver meet we don't want to disturb that line.

Use the q tip or the tip of a toothpick with WD 40 on it to clean out any of the epoxy that migrated through the top of the screw holes an also into the openings of any of the screws.
Now look at the underside of the bases where any excess JB could have migrated into the opening of the receiver or just on top of the receiver for example. Note where a one piece base is used it likes to hide underneath. For this area use the q tip with some WD 40 applied to remove.

Now go off and have lunch about an hour and use the q tips soaked with WD 40 to smooth (gently) the lines where the base and receiver meet. If you have done everything correctly it should look like one piece of metal!!!

In 24 hours or 6 using a light to position over the bases to heat them (keep under 90 degrees) you are ready to mount your scope.


A final note here make sure to pre fit everything because it will really suck if you find out a base screw is too long and the rifle will not operate!!! Also make sure the base is level on the action---placing a base or a scope in a bind is bad juju for accuracy.

If you ever bought a rifle from Speedy Gonzalez and had him glue on the base this is the way it was done.

 

[Iron Worker]

I just bought a Browning/Winchester 1885 High wall in 220 swift. A talley one piece base is a $100 bucks and a Leupold 2 piece base is $30 bucks. Which is best ?

 

[mmacfive]

I just bought a Browning/Winchester 1885 High wall in 220 swift. A talley one piece base is a $100 bucks and a Leupold 2 piece base is $30 bucks. Which is best ?

Buy the Leupold. It will work fine for what you need. I only have 1 piece on a couple of rifles.

 

[LaHunter]

Can u guys give me some input on advantages and disadvantages of one and two piece bases for use on my long range rifle. Am mounting up a IOR 2.5 to 10 on my 338 UM. Also, when do you need a base with built in MOA ?

Not all '1 piece' bases are the same. Since you say your rifle is a 338 UM used for long range, a quality picatinny rail base is best / most stable. I use a steel Leupold Mark 4 base and steel Mark 4 rings. This mounting system is a bit heavy, but solid as a rock. There are several quality options. Many use aluminum rail type bases with good results. The dovetail type mounting systems MAY work fine, but I am assuming that 338 has a pretty significant recoil. Also, the overwhelming majority of long range hunters / competition shooters are using picatinny type rail bases for a reason.
The ballistics, vertical adjustment range of your scope, and ranges you will be shooting will dictate whether or not if you will need to have a rail with built in MOA. I don't think there is any disadvantage to having a base with something like 15 or 20 moa built in.

 

[Buck Buster]

I agree with the others that like the one piece scope mounts ! I think of a car frame when thinking of this. I would never want to cut a car frame in half and then mount the body to it ! I think of the one piece base and the two piece base systems in the same light ! Common sense tells me that the one piece would be better, the front and back being connected have to help each other in being stronger and truly straight with each other !

 

[supermo26]

A few years ago I got a base from Murphy Percision. They were super helpful.

 

[DeadmansPoint]

A few years ago I got a base from Murphy Percision. They were super helpful.

I can second this. Having a base with a lug just seems so much more secure that any two piece. Plus, Murphy Precision also has titanium ones if you're counting ounces.

 

[mjkten]

I bedded a one piece 20 MOA base from Seekins on my Rem 700 5R. I found that it made loading a bit awkward. I ended up with a two piece base and used the Burris Signature rings to get my 20 MOA. I thought the inserts were a little fussy to install, but you only do it once-ish...also I think if your one piece base is a bit long, it can interfere with how low you can mount the scope. All these can be overcome, but something to consider.

 

[Kansaswoodguy]

I have both one and two piece bases I pretty much only buy one piece anymore I just feel they are better no bad experiences with two piece bases just personal preference.

 

[shinbone]

I think the main advantage of the one-piece base is that it allows more options for mounting the scope farther forward, if one so chooses.

 

[Ga6570]

I second the Burris signature series rings. I love the concept and function of the inserts. I have them in several different styles on current and previous setups and they work great. My most recent use of them is the extreme tactical version. Super solid. It you are unfamiliar with the Burris signature rings with inserts do some reading and watch a video or two. Well worth it.