New Hunting Knife

I got a new one, too...Just plain ol' cpm 154 and sambar . I can't afford that fancy laminated stuff....
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Put some mineral oil or coconut oil on that handle every so often and it wont be split when the great grand kids get it.
Stag horn, antler, bone and Ivory need it so it doesn't dry out and split.
 
Preventec,
I agree that change-blade knives are one solution to field dressing game. I've considered them but the pride of ownership with that beautiful Helle hunting knife outweighs the convenance for me.
I'm sure Jimmy CP above would agreed as would the Helle owners on this thread.

I have a little pocket size V sharpener. The 1st V is ceramic for sharpening and the second V is tungsten for finishing the blade. Always works for me with stainless blades and I expect it will do so with the Helle high carbon blade. It even has a flip out 1" diamond impregnated tapered rod for sharpening serrated blades.

Eric B.
 
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I'm making some Tanto types that are beveled only on one side and flat on the other.
With a clay temper I'm getting a distinct harmon (hardness line).
I believe this is going to work well!
 
Preventec,
I agree that change-blade knives are one solution to field dressing game. I've considered them but the pride of ownership with that beautiful Helle hunting knife outweighs the convenance for me.
I'm sure Jimmy CP above would agreed as would the Helle owners on this thread.

I have a little pocket size V sharpener. The 1st V is ceramic for sharpening and the second V is tungsten for finishing the blade. Always works for me with stainless blades and I expect it will do so with the Helle high carbon blade. It even has a flip out 1" diamond impregnated tapered rod for sharpening serrated blades.

Eric B.
Rods work great as long as the pressure is very light. I have guys constantly showing me there knives at work and I can actually see where their rods made ditches in the apex from getting impatient and putting pressure on it.
I had a set I gave my father inlaw. Diamond, ceramic and the final touch was graphite rods.
The cross rods hold a perfect angle as long as the knife is held at a 90. I have seen a bunch of knifes chewed up from rods. But done right there good.
 
Jimmy.
Ya know, I think I should probably call Helle and ask them what they recommend for easily getting the correct angle on the edge and for technique B/C I was told by a professional tool sharper (saws, chisels, knives, scissors, etc.) who told me, as you said, that "over-enthusiastic" sharpening can be worse than no sharpening.

Eric B.
 
Jimmy.
Ya know, I think I should probably call Helle and ask them what they recommend for easily getting the correct angle on the edge and for technique B/C I was told by a professional tool sharper (saws, chisels, knives, scissors, etc.) who told me, as you said, that "over-enthusiastic" sharpening can be worse than no sharpening.

Eric B.
Hard stainless I reprofile to 20 degree,
High carbon skinning knifes 22 or 25 depending on the hardness, utility knives 28, cleaver, hatchet and axes 32.
Kitchen knives 20
Filet 15-17
Straight razors 17
Sushi 12.
That's what I prefer. If it was mine 22 to 25. 22 is easy to estimate when doing it by hand on a stone or rod. Basically half of 90 is 45 and half of 45 will get you 22.5 so it's easy to dress the blade in the field if needed with the tried and true eyeball.
 
Preventec,
I agree that change-blade knives are one solution to field dressing game. I've considered them but the pride of ownership with that beautiful Helle hunting knife outweighs the convenance for me.
I'm sure Jimmy CP above would agreed as would the Helle owners on this thread.

I have a little pocket size V sharpener. The 1st V is ceramic for sharpening and the second V is tungsten for finishing the blade. Always works for me with stainless blades and I expect it will do so with the Helle high carbon blade. It even has a flip out 1" diamond impregnated tapered rod for sharpening serrated blades.

Eric B.

I finally broke down and bought a havalon piranta knife this year, I used one on my elk and it was a lifesaver. Quartering an elk dulled 3 blades to the point I doubt you could cut yourself. It stays hidden in my pack because I have always been a knife guy but I have never developed the skill to sharpen them sufficiently on my own. Absolute dream for skinning and caping though, I will probably never hunt without one.

I bought a bench made hidden canyon this year because it's perfect. Never found a need for a big blade, and I really like the skinner profile. Carried a buck 113 for a while, inherited a custom blade that was a little bigger and much prettier, but still a little big for my preference and it's polished so I am very hesitant to sharpen it. My pack will have the havalon and the benchmade when I chase deer starting in October.
 

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morning, I used to collect knives. have some to my standards
very good quality. I used to hand sharpen on 3 different
stones. as age progressives I have found the utility
knife with aggressive coatings on the 2 sided blades
and the knives that u can change the blades SS. r much faster
and less fuss to maintain during the cleaning of game.
now high quality knives r a work of art. I truly enjoy
looking at the workmanship of the artist.
I am going to get my ear chewed on this one.
justme gbot tum
 
I watched a guy clean an entire elk with a small knife like Schnyd112 just showed.
Still sharp after finishing the elk.
About sharpener's,what do you think of this sharpener?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M325869/?tag=lrhmag19-20
The price is way less than a higher priced machine like this.
Old Rooster
That's a knock off of the tormek sharpner. I works if you can get the differnt stones otherwise your stuck with one stone.
It also requires you to set the jig at the proper angle.

Most store bought knifes discourage people from learning to sharpen a knife. This is because the angle is off one one side or the other and unless you know how to straighten it out, you'll never get the knife with a sharp edge that maintains.

If you buy the work sharp pro you can set it to any angle. Market your blade edge with a black marker. Make a guess at what angle it is and run it through the belt. If it doesn't remove the marker off the edge try a different angle.
Once you find the angle that remove the marker on the blade edge, keep running that side through the belt until you form a lip on the back side from the base of the bled to the tip. You will be able to scrape your fingernail on the back side and it will catch.
Once this is done do the other side the same way until you form a lip.

Then take the next lower grit belt and work the lip off. Now your angle is correct on both sides.
Work it 1 for one each side at least 10 times each side and go to a lower grit belt and do the same.

Make sure as the blade edge comes across the belt, you are pulling it through keeping the edge 90 degree to the belt. So where it sweeps up to the tip you have to tilt your wrist up in motion. Stop and lift as your tip comes into the belt. If you drag it all the way through you can round off the tip.

If you want to strop it out on leather to polish off the edge that's a bonus.

I sharpen mine on a 2x72 belt grinder then strop them on horse hide. 3 stops one has whit jewelry polish then next is green and last just the raw leather.
Below is the last palm skinner I did for a guy. You can see the reflection in the edge.
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20190730_135624.jpg

The work sharp pro is basically the same concept.
 
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