Neck Lube Experience

[Seabeeken]

Here's a picture of cold weld in some premium ammunition.

My 338 looked exactly like that!

 

[Beluebow]

I have tested many different types of neck lube to try and gain a competitive advantage in Fclass....For me NEO LUBE#2 has been the best. It's easy to apply, drys in seconds, and you can't over apply it. Seat bullets long come back a year later they seat like butter.

 

[Seabeeken]

IIRC, didnt Bonanza become Forster?

 

[Lonewolf74]

I've been experimenting with different neck lube for seating depth/CBTO consistency in annealed brass. Graphite and case lube. Not impressed and don't see any benefit on the target. In fact I found disaster with groups using graphite. I find myself having to play with the seating stem too much too. I was getting .005" seating depth variance. Last night I went clean and dry necks. After mandrel expanding the necks, I brushed out the necks with caliber size bore brush, swabbed out with alcohol, and cleaned the bullets with alcohol. The seating depth variance dropped to .002". (.001 above or below target depth, and on par with my shoulder bump variance)

I have never experienced cold weld. I shoot my ammo soon enough I don't think it has time to take hold.

I didn't read through this whole thread so I may have missed it but what method do you use to anneal?

I ask this because a little experiment I ran a few years ago showed me something. For a while I was giving my brass to my smith to anneal on his Bench Source annealer. I then came across the salt bath annealing method and with some research and talking to MikeCR decided to give it a try. Bullet seating became much more consistent in the salt bath annealed brass vs the Bench source with same lot of brass and all other cleaning and reloading practices staying the same.

Needless to say I switched to salt bath annealing and never looked back and I don't pay attention to the claims of it not working…the uniform seating was proof enough for me, weather that can actually be seen on target is still up for debate!

 

[DoneNOut]

I didn't read through this whole thread so I may have missed it but what method do you use to anneal?

I ask this because a little experiment I ran a few years ago showed me something. For a while I was giving my brass to my smith to anneal on his Bench Source annealer. I then came across the salt bath annealing method and with some research and talking to MikeCR decided to give it a try. Bullet seating became much more consistent in the salt bath annealed brass vs the Bench source with same lot of brass and all other cleaning and reloading practices staying the same.

Needless to say I switched to salt bath annealing and never looked back and I don't pay attention to the claims of it not working…the uniform seating was proof enough for me, weather that can actually be seen on target is still up for debate!

Torch, drill, socket method. Till the necks just start to glow.

 

[ButterBean]

Torch, drill, socket method. Till the necks just start to glow.

EZPZ

 

[ButterBean]

I didn't read through this whole thread so I may have missed it but what method do you use to anneal?

I ask this because a little experiment I ran a few years ago showed me something. For a while I was giving my brass to my smith to anneal on his Bench Source annealer. I then came across the salt bath annealing method and with some research and talking to MikeCR decided to give it a try. Bullet seating became much more consistent in the salt bath annealed brass vs the Bench source with same lot of brass and all other cleaning and reloading practices staying the same.

Needless to say I switched to salt bath annealing and never looked back and I don't pay attention to the claims of it not working…the uniform seating was proof enough for me, weather that can actually be seen on target is still up for debate!

 

[Lonewolf74]

Bean; like the video and I agree with you. I was simply stating my findings and experience.
Part of me wishes I didn't find what I did because I don't want to do more steps then necessary. As I stated I'm not positive there's a measurable difference on the target but the greater consistency in seating bullets was very measurable for me so I do it this way.

Really what I was trying to point out is there may be thing's that help more with consistent seating than any lube does.

 

[2buffalo]

You clearly are behind the times

Don't you know that on this forum most issues can be traced back to temp sensitive powders shooting cold welded bullets in cases with donuts being made to shoot through omnipresent carbon rings and that the only way to mitigate these disastrous ailments is the use of hammer bullets pushed by rl26 in Sherman cartridges?

You forgot to include a 215 Berger and a Nightforce scope. And if you don't anneal after every firing and use a mandrel for sizing you are doomed to failure.

 

[DoneNOut]

You forgot to include a 215 Berger and a Nightforce scope. And if you don't anneal after every firing and use a mandrel for sizing you are doomed to failure.

Mister, you forgot to include clearing the Berger tips with a dental pic...

 

[2buffalo]

Mister, you forgot to include clearing the Berger tips with a dental pic...

I'm sorry. I will try to do better.

 

[Calvin45]

You forgot to include a 215 Berger and a Nightforce scope. And if you don't anneal after every firing and use a mandrel for sizing you are doomed to failure.

2015 called, they want their bullet back….

 

[Calvin45]

Mister, you forgot to include clearing the Berger tips with a dental pic...

A Nightforce dental pick?

 

[Calvin45]

@BFD 2.0…

OPPORTUNISTIC CAPITALIST ALERT: we are going to create an official LRH HOLLOW POINT BULLET TIP CLEANER OUTER.

(it's just a repackaged made in China dental pick with a 400 % markup)

You and me gonna make some money

@2buffalo gets a slice of the pie as well. If he hadn't mentioned bergers this genius idea of mine may well never have been….