• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Dry Neck Lube

1691065425333.png


Use a Q-tip to apply ....drys in 10-15 seconds. Not that messy. You can't over apply it and the ones you under apply you can go back over with no issues.
 
I know for a fact that using sizing lube on the bullets or in the necks throws rounds something terrible. Takes 10rnds to get the barrel to settle down. So, that experiment was certainly instructive! (I tried dry lube spray and same thing)

I experimented with graphite on the bullet bases and saw some groups open up, but that was before I had a more solid understanding of grouping dynamics as presented/espoused by Litz, Hornady, Etc. I need to retry graphite on the bullet bases. However, running bare bullets with graphite coated barrel after cleaning has been phenomenal in reducing the first round fliers.

Getting back to graphite on the bullets or necks...I feel like I'll look like a coal miner every time I go to hand load! 😆
I started lubing the bullets so they would seat smoother but that was because I was ultrasonic cleaning my brass and it came out literally squeaky clean...the bullets would squeak when being seated. I quit the ultrasonic and the squeak went away so no need to lube bullets anymore but I did not notice any ill effects but your experience will steer me away from that practice. I run HBN coated bullets in a couple rifles and the 1st shot is always in the group.
 
One is powder and looks like the other is coated BB's. Does it really matter which one is being used?

View attachment 482752
One is the container ready to use. The other is a refill. Start with the Application Media with Dry Neck Lube. When it runs low, refill the Application Media container with the Dry Neck Lube. Always shake up the Media container good before using. This stuff works well and lasts.
 
Years ago I bought a Mika application device that is a small blue box that has a small Mika supply and a nylon brush. You dip just the edge of the case mouth in the Mika then push it down on the brush. It's very convenient and at the time, very cheap. I think mine is Frankfort Arsenal.
 
Years ago I bought a Mika application device that is a small blue box that has a small Mika supply and a nylon brush. You dip just the edge of the case mouth in the Mika then push it down on the brush. It's very convenient and at the time, very cheap. I think mine is Frankfort Arsenal.
Yup I have that also. It worked fine.
 
as been said one is the tube and the other is the application beads. I've been using the amazon stuff on a q-tip and it sure is messy.
I've heard of guys putting it in some lead shot to use as application method. I might try that.
 
A little? You apply to the mandrel or to the case mouths?
I use graphite only after the case sizing, when I use a 21 Century mandrel (neck expansion to get uniform neck tension). For the full length case resizing, I only lube the outsize of the case. I also take out the EZ expander ball from my Forster FL sizing dies, because the neck expanding by mandrels can be done way more accurate and consistent.
 
View attachment 482863

Use a Q-tip to apply ....drys in 10-15 seconds. Not that messy. You can't over apply it and the ones you under apply you can go back over with no issues.
Lucky you, I tried very hard to get it to Canada, but I could not. To add insult to the injury, the Neolube No.2 is actually made in Canada, mostly used in nuclear reactors for lubing I don't know what... I just could not find a way to get it. Then, I realized that it is just an alcoholic suspension of high purity, extremely fine grit graphite. So, I found some graphite on Amazon, from a Chinese seller (I cannot verify their claim on purity/fineness), and will make a suspension with pure alcohol, I'll see how that works...
 
as been said one is the tube and the other is the application beads. I've been using the amazon stuff on a q-tip and it sure is messy.
I've heard of guys putting it in some lead shot to use as application method. I might try that.
Use a few small ball bearings in the container. Shake well and use.
 
I use the 21st Century steel mandrels with imperial sizing lube on the mandrel and swab the case necks with the imperial lube as well. Then I alcohol swab out the necks and seat them with bullets bare.

I know for a fact that using sizing lube on the bullets or in the necks throws rounds something terrible. Takes 10rnds to get the barrel to settle down. So, that experiment was certainly instructive! (I tried dry lube spray and same thing)

I experimented with graphite on the bullet bases and saw some groups open up, but that was before I had a more solid understanding of grouping dynamics as presented/espoused by Litz, Hornady, Etc. I need to retry graphite on the bullet bases. However, running bare bullets with graphite coated barrel after cleaning has been phenomenal in reducing the first round fliers.

Getting back to graphite on the bullets or necks...I feel like I'll look like a coal miner every time I go to hand load! 😆
I've been using using lock ease in my barrels as well. I believe it helps keeping copper from fouling as much as normal. First few times I have used it, I think i left too much in the barrel, and had a little to much pressure/velocity. I also dry lube my necks to prevent case/bullet weld. I just had that happen on some older, 10 year plus old factory 300 WSM ammo. almost 500 FPS too fast.
 
I know for a fact that using sizing lube on the bullets or in the necks throws rounds something terrible. Takes 10rnds to get the barrel to settle down. So, that experiment was certainly instructive! (I tried dry lube spray and same thing)
Ive been using Lee case lube wiped into the neck with a qtip with excellent results. Just let it dry a min before seating bullets. Gives me single digit ES in most cases
 
Top