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My first build

Yes, this is a brand new gun. I "Think" i am okay with the pin, however this broughtl to light that i have not thought everything through. My goal is to keep the box mag and if that presents a problem with moving up to a 300WM or 300WSM then i will hav to rethink what i am trying to do. going to make a few calls this week and try and find some spec to see if i can fit "standard" 300wm loads into the mag.
 
The 30-06 mag box is 3.450 standard 300wm is 3.340 so you still have an extra .100" to load out 300wm rounds, if you have a round reciever accutrigger rifle all you need is a boltface and barrel.
 
It is just easy sometimes to push the extractor and loose the ball. Granted that shouldn't happen with what if being suggested but hey it won't hurt and if you do manage to work something else loose in the process you'll save yourself some hunting. It just happens that is all. I'm just cautious sometimes. :)

Good luck in your parts hunting! You should probably start planning for your second build while you are at it. You won't be able to stop. gun)

Guide for the bolt head swap: http://www.switchbarrel.com/BOLTHEAD.htm
 
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26" 300 win mag barrel, new bolt head, action and barrel wrench ordered today. should be here around the 28th. need to also pick up some go-no go gauges and i think i will be all set for the change. need to have it turned for a muzzle break so that will add a little more time to eveyting. might just have this done in time for my B-day gun)

also picked up the Savage Arms 10-116 armorer's course from AGI. great overview of the total disasebly and barrel swap.
 
Awesome! What barrel maker did you end up going with? You are gonna have a blast working on that thing. Now you can start looking for a stock. :) It never really ends.
 
I grabbed on off NUMRICH site that you sent me. Heavy Sporter 26" stainless price was okay, and hope the barrel is too. had kids college tuition comming up and taxes.. figured i better spending it on me instead of the goverment..:D
 
Got home today and found that my parts were all delivered. have the barrel,trigger, bolt head. need to pick up the go-no go gauges and i think i will be set.

should i have the muzzle break threaded and installed before i swap everything out, also what break would anyone recomend.
 
That is going to depend on the brake you pick. If you do a radial like a Vais you can go ahead and get it installed. If you do a slab style with ports only on the left and right you'll need to install the barrel first so that it can be timed after headspaced. The slabs are nice if you are shooting prone a lot. You won't have a lot of dust and junk being kicked up but if you don't mind tossing something down under the muzzle during practice the Vais is a good brake. I've got one on my 300wm and it does well. There is a guy by the name of Ross Shculer I think it is that does some of the slab style brakes for like $45. I can get you some info if you want it. Most of his info is posted on Snipers Hide.

Got home today and found that my parts were all delivered. have the barrel,trigger, bolt head. need to pick up the go-no go gauges and i think i will be set.

should i have the muzzle break threaded and installed before i swap everything out, also what break would anyone recomend.
 
When the bolt is in the open position and fully rearward a small amount of play is a non issue and difficult to avoid if you want the bolt to slide freely. As long as the bolt faces is square and true when the bolt cams shut it should be ok.

Disclaimer: I am not a gun smith. I have been around some accurate rifles and was a machinist for several years so I have a basic understanding of this stuff.

The spring tension causes a wave motion if the bolt is sloppy. In either case if the Savage bolt has a snug fit it will cause less vibration during the firing process.
 
I would go ahead and get the muzzlebrake installed as soon as possible. I have a Ross schuler brake installed on a Numrich barrel in 7mag. I shot a 3 inch group at 725 yards with it, the barrel you got will be fine. I put a duramaxx stock on mine and, I can't squeeze the stock and make it touch the barrel like I can with my hs precision, very good 100 dallar investment.
 
I would go ahead and get the muzzlebrake installed as soon as possible. I have a Ross schuler brake installed on a Numrich barrel in 7mag. I shot a 3 inch group at 725 yards with it, the barrel you got will be fine. I put a duramaxx stock on mine and, I can't squeeze the stock and make it touch the barrel like I can with my hs precision, very good 100 dallar investment.

Duramaxx is a great stock but just watch which action you have. They only make them in staggerfeed for the long action and if you have a newer rifle it is probably centerfeed. The action will still bolt in because the screw spacing is still the same however the mag will not fit right. It will be loose in the larger staggerfeed inlet. You can shim it in place if you take the time. It just isn't going to be a drop in. Also those stocks tend to have bedding that is a little off. Often the barrel won't center in the channel right out of the box. Do some trimming or bed it and you'll be good on that issue though. The are sturdy for the price though. I cut one to fit a centerfeed DBM 300wm for a friend and it has been a great stock after a little work and bedding.
 
Just a quick update on my little project.

Have all the parts except the muzzle break and new stock. Helped a guy out and bought his colt police 38 special in nickel. He was out of work and needed money. Figure he can buy it back once he is working again.

Anyway, question for you all. How much accuracy will a new stock really add. I mean if the factory stock is bedded will it really make any difference??
 
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