Making 6.8 Western Brass

[frostop]

I think the SAUM's shoulder is closer to where you need it, probably just neck it down and fireform like can1010 stated (I'm not real familiar with the SAUM).
The biggest problem I see is availability of the SAUM brass, definitely less available.

If the brass is new, I don't think annealing would help any.
The 7wsm may actually be a little easier than 270wsm when it comes to pushing the shoulder back since your starting the push back in the neck area.
With the WSM cases you may have to ream the portion of the case that gets pushed back, good chance it will be thicker in that area


Years ago when Rick Jameson was still at shooting times and he had his line of cartridges, I had a .338 Jameson built and formed all the cases from .404 jeffrey brass (still have the dies), which came with a reamer. Later I converted that rifle to 270wsm and initially turned the 338 jamison fromed brass into 270wsm, if I remember right I ran them into a 300wsm die than the 270 die. I now have Norma 270wsm brass.

My point is that I think any of those cases will work!

 

[trailboy68]

I found this video, this guy is converting 300 WSM to 6.8 W brass.

 

[jjh1]

fireform SAUM brass with bullet having a light jam is the easiest for a new reloader. I have two wildcats on the 6.8 western case and both use fireformed SAUM brass. real easy and simple

Good morning! I've reloaded for 20 + years but never fire formed. Can you please walk me through the process of fire forming 7 saum brass for use in the 6.8 western?

 

[choprzrul]

Just have the chamber on that 6.8 Western reamed out to 270 WSM....more case capacity + you get the faster twist barrel than the std WSM. Win-win.....

 

[can1010]

make a dummy round. if you have the tools to find the lands and then load to that length with a mild charge for the 6.8 western, if you don't have the tools just seat the bullet long and check in chamber and keep shortening till you feel the slightest resistance when chambering and then use that length load and shoot with a mild load. this is the easiest without a lot tools. starting charges work best when forming and only size your formed brass enough to chamber don't over size after forming

 

[jjh1]

make a dummy round. if you have the tools to find the lands and then load to that length with a mild charge for the 6.8 western, if you don't have the tools just seat the bullet long and check in chamber and keep shortening till you feel the slightest resistance when chambering and then use that length load and shoot with a mild load. this is the easiest without a lot tools. starting charges work best when forming and only size your formed brass enough to chamber don't over size after forming

Thank you for the advice

 

[jjh1]

make a dummy round. if you have the tools to find the lands and then load to that length with a mild charge for the 6.8 western, if you don't have the tools just seat the bullet long and check in chamber and keep shortening till you feel the slightest resistance when chambering and then use that length load and shoot with a mild load. this is the easiest without a lot tools. starting charges work best when forming and only size your formed brass enough to chamber don't over size after forming

In regard to process of prepping brass is this correct:
1. Resize in 6.8 western die
2. Trim to appropriate length
3. Ream and chamfer case neck
4. Determine seating depth as described above.
5. Load with mild powder charge and cheap bullet.
6. Fire round
7. Resize to chamber size, do not push shoulder back .002 as usual.

 

[can1010]

In regard to process of prepping brass is this correct:
1. Resize in 6.8 western die
2. Trim to appropriate length
3. Ream and chamfer case neck
4. Determine seating depth as described above.
5. Load with mild powder charge and cheap bullet.
6. Fire round
7. Resize to chamber size, do not push shoulder back .002 as usual.

that's right, as far as sizing don't push shoulder back until the case is full formed might take more than one firing. once fully formed then bump shoulder .002 like normal.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

Just have the chamber on that 6.8 Western reamed out to 270 WSM....more case capacity + you get the faster twist barrel than the std WSM. Win-win.....

THIS,.. ^^^ is, VERY sound advice, as the Big Arms / Ammo companies, ARE known for, "dropping, the Ball" !
Ream Chamber, find some, Norma .270 WSM Brass, Forster Dies then, you'll be, "Good to Go" !
With the New, Hornady 6.5 and 7 PRC's, sucking up ALL, the energy for, good Elk, Rounds, the 6.8 looks to be on it's, LAST Legs !
AND, the .270 WSM cartridge, is FAR from, being,.. "Dead" !

 

[jjh1]

THIS,.. ^^^ is, VERY sound advice, as the Big Arms / Ammo companies, ARE known for, "dropping, the Ball" !
Ream Chamber, find some, Norma .270 WSM Brass, Forster Dies then, you'll be, "Good to Go" !
With the New, Hornady 6.5 and 7 PRC's, sucking up ALL, the energy for, good Elk, Rounds, the 6.8 looks to be on it's, LAST Legs !
AND, the .270 WSM cartridge, is FAR from, being,.. "Dead" !

Will definitely look into this. I'm helping a friend with all of this and nor sure is financially in the cards.

 

[jjh1]

that's right, as far as sizing don't push shoulder back until the case is full formed might take more than one firing. once fully formed then bump shoulder .002 like normal.

Understood. I did not know it may take more than one firing. How will I know if it's fully formed? Sorry if that's a dumb question, like I said, I've never done this before

 

[Idaho Lefty]

Will definitely look into this. I'm helping a friend with all of this and nor sure is financially in the cards.

The small difference of case length, "could" possibly be, Hand Reamed, a little Deeper with, a T-handle / Tap Extension and a reamer by, a gunsmith for, a reasonable charge, without, taking the Barrel off action, I think ? Ask around, at your local gunsmith's for costs.

 

[jjh1]

The small difference of case length, "could" possibly be, Hand Reamed, a little Deeper with, a T-handle / Tap Extension and a reamer by, a gunsmith for, a reasonable charge, without, taking the Barrel off action, I think ? Ask around, at your local gunsmith's for costs.

Will do, thanks!

 

[can1010]

Understood. I did not know it may take more than one firing. How will I know if it's fully formed? Sorry if that's a dumb question, like I said, I've never done this before

the only dumb question is the one you don't ask and results in problems. just keep measuring your headspace or adjust your die so your brass chambers easily without over sizing.
back up your die about a quarter turn size brass and check in chamber and just keep adjusting your die until the brass chambers easily. go slow with small adjustments at a time

rechambering to a 270 wsm doesn't solve any problem because their brass is even harder to find and can't be made from another case easily.
just stick with the western and saum brass