Donneric
Well-Known Member
What is IPA may I ask? Thanks
Lube outside of necks with bushing dies?
- Thread starter Josebd
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Rick Richard
Well-Known Member
Isopropyl alcohol maybe?
Rflshootr
Well-Known Member
I just use imperial wax on the body and neck, not the shoulder. Size, then wipe with a paper towel and some denatured alcohol. I recently tried some Royal Case Lube. That stuff is as slick as cat snot on a door knob and wipes off easily.
Yes, as @Rick Richard suggested, isopropyl alcohol, or isopropanol.
floyd kittrell
Well-Known Member
I don't have to use lube on my L.E.Wilson neck only sizing dies. But I love the graphite so much I normally do use it, wipe out side and leave it on the inside. Not brave enough to use the shallow graphite for full length, still roll them on the pad with liquid lube. JMHO
crkckr
Well-Known Member
I don't want any foreign "stuff" of any kind inside my cases, ever, although a tiny bit of Imperial in the neck won't hurt anything. To that end I use Imperial sizing wax, applied by fingers, to lube cases for both neck or full length sizing. I also use RCBS case lube for straight wall pistol cases because it washes off with water.
I absolutely hate anything with lanolin because it's so hard to remove from the cases (alcohol is the only way I've ever been able to get rid of the sticky stuff!). Lanolin also builds up pretty quickly and one should clean ones dies often if using it, especially anything requiring anything in the way of precision.
The Imperial wax can be wiped off a cloth or paper towel with whatever remains being nothing to worry about. It never builds up (if it does you're simply using too much!), and I've never come close to sticking a case in a die using it.
I believe all cases should be lubed, even Ti or carbide dies. It makes the dies last longer and I think less prone to being scratched. And for anyone who thinks brass can't possibly scratch a steel or carbide die (or barrel), they clearly don't resize very many cases. Not only will it scratch it can literally embed into the die, which still results in scratches. Usually some JB Bore cleaner will remove it but if it's bad enough, back to the manufacturer it goes for an overhaul!
Cheers,
crkckr
I absolutely hate anything with lanolin because it's so hard to remove from the cases (alcohol is the only way I've ever been able to get rid of the sticky stuff!). Lanolin also builds up pretty quickly and one should clean ones dies often if using it, especially anything requiring anything in the way of precision.
The Imperial wax can be wiped off a cloth or paper towel with whatever remains being nothing to worry about. It never builds up (if it does you're simply using too much!), and I've never come close to sticking a case in a die using it.
I believe all cases should be lubed, even Ti or carbide dies. It makes the dies last longer and I think less prone to being scratched. And for anyone who thinks brass can't possibly scratch a steel or carbide die (or barrel), they clearly don't resize very many cases. Not only will it scratch it can literally embed into the die, which still results in scratches. Usually some JB Bore cleaner will remove it but if it's bad enough, back to the manufacturer it goes for an overhaul!
Cheers,
crkckr
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
dhois
Member
I remember asking a Redding tech this same question in the late 1990s and getting the same answer. It's what I do and I've not noticed an issue.
DickE
Member
Baby powder.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Shouldn't use a wet lube INSIDE necks.
You could likely pull bullets by hand if you do that.
5Spot
Active Member
Here's how to make the lanolin/alcohol mixture:
Make Your Own Case Lube – Ultimate Reloader
ultimatereloader.com
I have seen a few pic's of blown up rifles receivers and the experts said "possible cold weld".
That's my biggest fear!Out of an abundance of caution I lube necks.
Mikecr brought another possibility into the conversation as you don't want the bullet to weld itself into the case but you don't want the bullet to come out all by itself,causing bullet setback under recoil and possible damage to the rifle and you the shooter.
So what is too much?What is safe?
I'm still on the fence and reading every post.
That's my biggest fear!Out of an abundance of caution I lube necks.
Mikecr brought another possibility into the conversation as you don't want the bullet to weld itself into the case but you don't want the bullet to come out all by itself,causing bullet setback under recoil and possible damage to the rifle and you the shooter.
So what is too much?What is safe?
I'm still on the fence and reading every post.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I used Imperial Wax on the inside of the neck for a few cartridges, 458 SOCOM was one of them. I asked Redding what was the recommended method to remove their lube from the necks and the guy told me "we shoot it out - no need to remove it first".
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I've been handloading for nearly 50 years. I've had handloads sitting in cabinets for decades before I decided to shoot them. During that time, I never used anything inside of the necks. Never once did I experience an excessive pressure condition that was caused by cold welding or anything else.
While I believe that cold welding can occur under some conditions, I also don't believe that it results in catastrophic conditions. None of my shooting buddies has ever experienced anything extreme from cold welding either.
Overall, probably the best thing to leave in the necks is just the carbon from previous firings.
