jja600
Well-Known Member
I use a VERY thin layer of imperial wax with a normal die.
Lube outside of necks with bushing dies?
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My experience has been that graphite will eventually build up inside the bushing and start scraching the neck. The graphite is difficult to remove. I've had to use JB to get it out. Now it is just a light touch of Imperial wax from my fingers, even on the nitrided ones.
Seems like the more interference/tension you desire, the more a little bit of slickum up would be helpful. At least for long term wear and consistency?
But I use One-Shot so it's nothing extra for me to apply.
It's been a long time since ive used anything but a bushing die MM, I dont even know if I measured the seated and unseated OD back then. Not much help for your comparison.
But I use One-Shot so it's nothing extra for me to apply.
It's been a long time since ive used anything but a bushing die MM, I dont even know if I measured the seated and unseated OD back then. Not much help for your comparison.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
I don't see where a little wet lube on the OUTSIDE of necks would hurt anything, but I don't lube necks.
I don't need to, and I don't want lube building in/around the bushing.
My bushings are either titanium nitride coated or carbide, and I only set 2thou of interference with a bushing.
For shoulder bumping I use RCBS case lube, and every now & then I have to clean it out of my bump die.
I don't need to, and I don't want lube building in/around the bushing.
My bushings are either titanium nitride coated or carbide, and I only set 2thou of interference with a bushing.
For shoulder bumping I use RCBS case lube, and every now & then I have to clean it out of my bump die.
A standard die will push lube from the outside of the neck, on to the shoulder. Makes a lube dent, soon or later, IF to much lube is used.
The bushing does not size fully to the shoulder. Lube builds up above the shoulder, IF to much is used.
The tiniest amount of lube, on the neck, doesnt hurt a thing. I lube both. RCSB 2 from a pad.
Montana'eer
Well-Known Member
That's what I do. Imperial dry lube. Dunk, resize- NEXT!!
RUFFIAN R - NY
Well-Known Member
Go with the Imperial sizing wax, been using for yah right very long time- started doing this back in the early 60's / late 50's handloading from the benchrest boys. Also use the graphite balls- just a dip.
On my standard dies I dip the neck into graphite powder a couple of mm. I use Frankford Arsenal spray lube on the body but am careful not to get any lube on either the neck or shoulder. Anyway this is my current SOP but open to change. I've not yet tried bushing dies.
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kiwikid
Well-Known Member
The following is from the Redding Tech Line under the heading Lubricating Cases.
"Though often neglected, the neck of the cartridge case should be lubricated. For this task, we recommend using Imperial Dry Neck Lube. The easiest way to apply dry neck lube is simply to dip the cartridge case neck into Imperial Application Media. The media consists of high density ceramic spheres (spheres approximate the size of #9 lead shot) that are pre-charged with Imperial Dry Neck Lube. This method allows the Handloader to lubricate both the inside and outside of the case neck simultaneously."
"Though often neglected, the neck of the cartridge case should be lubricated. For this task, we recommend using Imperial Dry Neck Lube. The easiest way to apply dry neck lube is simply to dip the cartridge case neck into Imperial Application Media. The media consists of high density ceramic spheres (spheres approximate the size of #9 lead shot) that are pre-charged with Imperial Dry Neck Lube. This method allows the Handloader to lubricate both the inside and outside of the case neck simultaneously."
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
None of my dies size to the neck/shoulder juncture and; in every instance of shoulder dents I have seen is from lube on the case body migrating to the shoulder…
You see, this is where falsehoods/myths regarding WHAT is required are generated.
Every reloading die suggests NOT to lube necks, however, MOST bushing dies suggest lube… I use many coated tools, these tools, including bushings and dies, require no lube because the coating IS the lubricant.
As I previously stated, I used to dip case necks into graphite powder, but is NOT necessary in any way and just makes a mess…I still use powdered graphite INSIDE necks, even on my mandrel's, because wax and the like accumulate and is also messy.
I actually stumbled onto the best lube I have ever used by accident, it is 100% pure bees wax melted and strained, never even come close to sticking a case with it, and this includes serious sizing from one case shape to another.
Cheers.
Yes
Seabeeken
Well-Known Member
I spray mine with royal case and die lube. No need to wait for flash off. Works great and never a wrinkled shoulder even when forming cases. Wipes off easily too. Best I've ever used. Imperial sitting on a shelf waiting on a new home.
milo-2
Well-Known Member
IMO it is brand of brass dependent in a way, Lapua, Norma, never need. Rem, Win, cheaper brands maybe so, but it's not brass composition, it is the burrs on the case mouths.
Deburr and chamfer any case and it will be good for life, and no lube.
Deburr and chamfer any case and it will be good for life, and no lube.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Seems like there are qualifiers unspoken so far.
If you're sizing the living shite out of necks, leaving a bunch of interference, and using your bullets for re-upsizing, then you may need lube to prevent shoulder collapse or some other mess.
These are YOUR choices though. Doesn't have to be that way.
If you're sizing the living shite out of necks, leaving a bunch of interference, and using your bullets for re-upsizing, then you may need lube to prevent shoulder collapse or some other mess.
These are YOUR choices though. Doesn't have to be that way.
