Just bought 4 Rem 783's for $199 each!

[WildRose]

Thanks WildRose. All of these rifles started life as 30-06's so they all have a standard bolt face. From what I've read, that will work fine with the 6.5-284. The 284 case is fat but has a rebated rim.

For the 300 Win Mag I was potentially just going to have a gunsmith open the bolt face up some. A bit of online searching and I found out it was cheaper to get a new bolt face from PT&G. Which is what I did. I have one on order.

I actually wanted to get a new stainless bolt for the rifle that will become the 300 Win Mag, just to match the new barrel and brake. However PT&G's website says the new bolt face is "drop in" but the new bolt needs a gunsmith. At first I thought maybe just because the headspace will need to be set. But some websites were saying there is more to be done to make a new bolt work correctly. If I remember correctly, people were saying with a newly manufactured bolt the lugs may not even cycle in the receiver correctly too without some gunsmith work. Not sure, so I just ordered the bolt face to be safe.

In my line of work when I project becomes way more expensive than originally projected, we call that "scope creep". Trying hard to end up with a couple sweet rifles that are fun to shoot but not let the budget get out of hand.

Yep, I'm just tossing out ideas to help keep you from getting 9/10 done and having an "Oh ****" moment HA!

Sounds like you're on the right track.

 

[engineer40]

Yep, I'm just tossing out ideas to help keep you from getting 9/10 done and having an "Oh ****" moment HA!

Sounds like you're on the right track.

I'm always learning so I always appreciate the suggestions WildRose.

 

[7mmShooter]

Curious as to how these rifles are running? Thinking of getting one in 7mm Rem Mag and putting it in a Boyds laminate. Wondering how that combo would compare to a bone sotck 700 SPS in the 7mm? Thanks for any advice!

 

[engineer40]

Waiting for the barrels and other components for these 2 rifles is killing me. And of course, everything is taking longer than the vendors stated times; barrels, bottom metal, and 1 of the stocks.

So today I threw a scope back on one of these 30-06's and tried a new load at the range today.

First I have to say, this rifle loves the cold weather! It must have been about 15 degrees this late afternoon/evening. I could shoot as quickly as I wanted and the barrel never started to walk. I loved that!

At this time, I'm still using the factory Remington barrels.

Since I finally learned what I was doing with my Mil/Mil scopes a couple months ago, it only took me 3 shots to be on the bullseye to sight it in.

It was getting dark on me fast but I managed to get in a few good groupings. My best had 10 shots all touching in 1 ragged hole. I have to admit, I was dang happy when I saw that!

Sometimes it's hard to weed through what devices or equipment really help in rifle shooting, or are just new fads. I have always thought the bubble levels for scopes were a gimmick. Well after using 2 of them now on 2 different rifles, I am a believer forever. So much easier to stay consistent, especially if you need to break your cheek weld or get up for some reason and then try to shoot again. Unless I am trying to keep the weight as light as possible for a rifle system, I will have a bubble level on almost all of my scopes going forward.

Please use your own judgement and reloading manuals; however this was my load today:
Lapua brass
Hornady 178gr Match bullets with BC = 0.530 (these seem to shoot better than the Amax for me in this rifle)
56gr of IMR 4350
COAL was only 0.002 off the lands. (But still could mag feed - barely).
Lee collet neck sized
Lee factory crimp die (lightly applied).

 

[engineer40]

Curious as to how these rifles are running? Thinking of getting one in 7mm Rem Mag and putting it in a Boyds laminate. Wondering how that combo would compare to a bone sotck 700 SPS in the 7mm? Thanks for any advice!

The 783 is a great rifle if you get it cheap enough. I think Remington still is doing the $40 rebate also.

I put one of mine into a Boyds laminate. I bedded it myself from watching YT videos. After the stock and bedding, I was shooting cheap Prvi ammo right at .750 inches for 5 shot groups. With my reloads I can almost always keep my 5 shot groups under .3 inches now. Some have been under .25 inches. However, if it's in the middle of summer and you start shooting it at a tactical competition pace, it will start walking on you. Which I think most factory barrels would.

The 700 will have more aftermarket support. I have a couple 700's myself but they are both 100% original. I'm kind of using these 783's to learn on.

PT&G has their blueprinted 700 actions on sale right now. If you know you want a better aftermarket barrel and different stock, etc... That might be the best way to go. But by the time you get a trigger and bottom metal+mag and everything else, you will most definitely have more into it.

I don't have any regrets with these 783 rifles. They are working great for what I wanted to use them for. I have also seen a few other guys at my range with them in different cartriges and they are all accurate. But honestly, I haven't seen a new bolt action rifle that wasn't accurate in a long time. Even the cheap ones. I don't think accuracy is expensive anymore. I think having a better fit and finish is expensive.

Keep in mind though, even if you put the 783 into a laminate stock, it will still have a plastic trigger guard. For some reason I don't mind plastic on my AR's but can't stand it on my bolt rifles. You can replace the plastic trigger guard with a PT&G if you wanted.

 

[7mmShooter]

Engineer40: Thank you for the heads up and advice, that's what I was hoping for! The SPS I had (currently at Remington for replacement with my local Gander Mountain) wouldn't shoot under 1.75 moa with 150gr E Tips. I mean I'm not looking for benchrest accuracy, but sub moa would be nice and not that unreasonable considering all the advances nowadays! The way I see it, I can either take a new production 700, or I can get a refund and buy something else. My local GM has the 783s for 230 after the rebate. Either that and upgrade a couple things (stock, maybe a muzzle brake, idk) or I can probably get a blued Tikka T3. I'm almost dead set on the T3 if I can get the refund, but its nice to see what the 783s would be capable of...

I'm pretty much fed up with 700s as far as a stock rifle for the price I paid. Hell, just to match the T3 would be around $375 (Sako Extractor, Side Bolt Release, Good Trigger....)

Again, thanks for the update and insight, have a great night!

 

[WildRose]

Curious as to how these rifles are running? Thinking of getting one in 7mm Rem Mag and putting it in a Boyds laminate. Wondering how that combo would compare to a bone sotck 700 SPS in the 7mm? Thanks for any advice!

You couldn't give me an SPS made currently or in the last 5 years. Remington's QC on the 700's has been terrible all too often over the last few years.

 

[7mmShooter]

You couldn't give me an SPS made currently or in the last 5 years. Remington's QC on the 700's has been terrible all too often over the last few years.

Yes, I know all about that! Been there, done that! Worst mistake I've ever made... 3 trips to the repair shop for 2 different things, the original issue STILL isn't fixed... ***** frustrating "America's Most Trusted Gunmaker" not in recent years!

 

[7mmShooter]

Engineer40, have you shot any of them off a bipod with the factory stock? Seriously looking at picking up a couple to play with and curious if the recoil will snap the "stud", especially with the 7RM and 300WM.... Would probably upgrade it to a Boyds Pro Varmint anyway, just wondering if the standard stock would be usable for a while or if I'd need to immediately upgrade?gun)

Thanks for the help guys!!

 

[engineer40]

I haven't used a bipod on the factory stocks. The Pro Varmint is a great stock. I like it a lot. I had to lightly dremel the mag well to get the magazine it fit in. Nothing major. If you get one and the mag doesn't fit, just compare the opening to the mag well on the factory stock.

Just a word of caution; you won't be shoulder firing the rifle much if you put it into a Pro Varmint stock. Makes the rifle heavy. It can be done sure, but I at least wanted to give you that heads up.

I don't think there is a convenient way to use a bipod on the factory stock because there is not a "stud". There is just a plastic loop where someone could attach a sling if they wanted. It would be easy to file/dremel that loop off and actually screw in a stud. If you were to do that, I would reinforce on the inside of the stock with some epoxy or JB Weld. Just a few inches around the inside of the stud threads.

Bipods are nice but I shoot without them just as much. If you're not getting the Pro Varmint right away just use sand bags if you're shooting at the range or your rucksack if you're out in the field somewhere.

I originally purchased a Millet rail for one of the rifles. I didn't like it at all. The EGW rails are over twice the price but they are well over twice the quality in this case. Plus they just released their 20moa rails if you wanted.

If you are getting a magnum, don't be scared to thread the barrel yourself for a muzzle brake if you want one. I've done it a couple times now and they've turned out great. I think one of the pages of my updates in this thread I give the parts and links that I used. If not, I would be happy to post them. I mean that's half the fun of cheap guns is modifying them right? I've learned a ton from mine so far and haven't screwed anything up yet.

Hope this helps!

 

[7mmShooter]

Yeah, I don't plan on shooting it offhand at all lol. The last two 7mm I've had I only did it once while sighting it in just to see how it would go...

I will probably put a brake on it at some point, I'm thinking the Mini Mag Muscle brake. I'll see if I can find the post where you threaded yours (I remember seeing it looking back through last night).

For $100 I'm not going to bother putting studs in the factory stock.

Here's a question, what are you using for a rear bag? I've been looking into getting one, just can't justify spending $60+ on a TAB Gear, kinda curious to try one of the beaded neck pillows and see how that works

Thanks for the help Engineer!

 

[Bravo 4]

Here's a question, what are you using for a rear bag? I've been looking into getting one, just can't justify spending $60+ on a TAB Gear, kinda curious to try one of the beaded neck pillows and see how that works

Cheapest way to do it is to make your own.

 

[engineer40]

I make my shooting bags for about 99 cents. I just get big bags of rice and cut off a pantleg on an old pair of jeans. Dont even take the rice out of the plastic bag. Just sew it up into the pantleg and youre good to go. Works great. And rice is lighter than sand if you need to carry the rear bag with you.

At first i was thinking since it was a cheap rifle i would get a cheapish bipod. The UTG bipods had great reviews and they are made in Michigan just like me. I was happy with it until I used my friends Harris bipod. I bought a Harris immediately after that and havent used the cheap bipod on anything since.

Update: I meant UTG/Leapers is a Michigan company. Surely the bipods are made in China.

 

[III Percent]

I have used a harris bipod on my factory stock, and my brother in law has quite a bit. Haven't had any issues so far. I'm sure it isn't as durable as a stud, but its been fine.

That said, I use that rifle as a lightweight hunting rig and I don't hunt with a bipod on it. I use my pack or a pair of trekking poles as a front rest.

If you bed the factory stock and make sure the barrel channel doesn't ever touch the barrel in any shooting/ holding position, it makes for a great lightweight stock. I like the recoil pad and the way the grip fits my hand.