Is my full-length sizing die toast?

[J-B welder]

Cleaned out the die, cleaned out the vent hole, and tried sizing a dozen more cases while being very careful to use a minimal amount of lube. No dents. Not sure whether it was the cleaning or just not using as much lubricant, but either way I appreciate all the suggestions and insight offered. That's what I like so much about this site: lots of people willing to share knowledge and experience to help others out.

 

[jerry moore]

Here are the best pics I could get with my phone. The one with the dimple in the bottom of the dent is the worst, and is the only one with that little dimple. Some of the dents can be felt more than seen. Couldn't get a good picture of the inside of the die.

View attachment 239508View attachment 239509

Yes, I am very new to reloading. I've been using the lubrication method shown in the RCBS die instructions I found online, which match the process shown in the Lyman manual, with a slight modification. Both of those sources show a hand placed palm-down on the cases being lubed. I put one case on an RCBS lube pad with RCBS case lube on it, and using my fingernail against the side of the case roll it one revolution across the pad without putting any downward pressure on the case. Basically trying to put as little lubrication on the case as possible but still lube the length of it. Maybe I'm still getting too much on the case though, as there were a few cases that didn't dent. Out of the 15 I sized, I think 7 had dents of varying size and depth.

These are Winchester cases purchased as factory ammunition, fired once and then full-length sized to bump the shoulder 0.002".

Cleaned the vent hole, which did have some lube in it, but nothing solid like grit. Looked fairly dirty, though. Thanks for the suggestions on how to remedy the situation so far. I will try some solvent and soft bristles to see if I can remove the surface corrosion I can see. Mainly I was trying to avoid making it worse by doing something stupid.

rolling cases on lube pad is tricky easy to get lube on shoulder try spray & dry method

 

[epoletna]

Glad to hear you've solved the problem. I used an RCBS lube pad for a while, and was always getting too much lube on the case. Went to one-shot spray, and things went better, but I got a stuck case or two. I learned the secret with One-Shot was to follow instructions carefully.

I now use Imperial Sizing Wax and my finger tips. It is time consuming, but works very well for me. And just recently I went back to the RCBS lube pad. It is working well for me, but I have to remind myself not to press hard on the cases as I roll them, and not to get lube on the neck or shoulder.

 

[Firewurx]

I have an RCBS full-length .243 caliber full-length sizing die that was given to me by a friend, and I don't think it's been used in quite a while. The first time I used it in the used Reloader Special (1st generation) I have, it dented the shoulder of the cases I was resizing. I was very careful not to get any case lube on the neck or shoulder of the cases, so I don't think that's causing the dents. Just to be sure, I took out the decapping pin and twisted a clean cotton cloth up into the die to remove any substance that might be up there. Still dented the shoulders. Then I looked inside the die with a flashlight, and I could see what looks like a spot or two of rust around the shoulder cone, which seems like it might be what's creating the dents.

Knowing RCBS has a great reputation for standing behind their products, I sent them an email to see if they could do anything to help, and I got this reply: "I am sorry you are experiencing this issue with your die, However we do not cover any rust nor do any service on any item that has rust damage. I hope this information helps. Thank you for contacting RCBS!"

Not a surprise really, but I thought it was worth a shot. My question at this point is, is there anything that can be done with this die, and if there is, is it going to cost more than just buying a new one? Maybe a gunsmith could ream it out lightly? Thanks for any suggestions.

Did you check the vent hole to see if it's plugged?

 

[BHP9]

To clean my dies, I use an appropriate chamber brush for the caliber. Chuck the brush in a drill, a couple drops of solvent to dislodge the bad stuff and scrub/spin it out. You aren't going to hurt the die with a chamber brush . A bore scope without the mirror on is a great aid to view the inside of the die. Make sure you clean the vent hole . Now, Redding dies don't have a vent hole. They don't seem to believe it matters while Hornady, RCBS, and others do.

This is what I do. Never an issue.

 

[Baylor243]

^^^^THIS^^^^
Do this and the dent will go away.
After you have run a drill through the vent hole, get a wooden dowel and grind an angle on it that matches your case shoulder and put some flitz or scotch brite on it and clean up the shoulder area. Follow by polishing it there are any scratches.

Cheers.

I bought an old set of does at a gun show once for $5 that had some rust spots. A couple on the inside made marks on my brass just like yours. Soaked them in a penetrating oil like Kroil etc and cleaned them up best I could with mild scotch brite and a Magic eraser. Give it a try, Then strip it down and run that sucker in your tumbler for a few hours.

i did a couple pistol barrels the same way in the tumbler and got a few years of carbon off them.

i did a couple pistol barrels the same way in the tumbler and got a few years of carbon off them.

 

[ntsqd]

1. Get a new unfired case
2. Drive a self tapping screw into the primer hole.
3. Cut off screw head.
4. Coat the shoulder of case with fine valve grinding compound.
5. Put case in die, decapper removed.
6. Put cutoff screw in electric drill.
7. Run drill at low speed for 30 seconds.
8. Clean die and inspect
9. Repeat 7 if necessary.

Although the OP's problem appears to be solved for future reference I'll suggest using tooth paste instead of valve lapping compound. Figure it to be in the 1200-1500 grit range, non embedding, and easy to find. I've been known to use it instead of JB Bore Cleaner where appropriate (i.e. the lapping of surfaces that move against each other).

 

[smokey3]

I h

I have an RCBS full-length .243 caliber full-length sizing die that was given to me by a friend, and I don't think it's been used in quite a while. The first time I used it in the used Reloader Special (1st generation) I have, it dented the shoulder of the cases I was resizing. I was very careful not to get any case lube on the neck or shoulder of the cases, so I don't think that's causing the dents. Just to be sure, I took out the decapping pin and twisted a clean cotton cloth up into the die to remove any substance that might be up there. Still dented the shoulders. Then I looked inside the die with a flashlight, and I could see what looks like a spot or two of rust around the shoulder cone, which seems like it might be what's creating the dents.

Knowing RCBS has a great reputation for standing behind their products, I sent them an email to see if they could do anything to help, and I got this reply: "I am sorry you are experiencing this issue with your die, However we do not cover any rust nor do any service on any item that has rust damage. I hope this information helps. Thank you for contacting RCBS!"

Not a surprise really, but I thought it was worth a shot. My question at this point is, is there anything that can be done with this die, and if there is, is it going to cost more than just buying a new one? Maybe a gunsmith could ream it out lightly? Thanks for any suggestions.

I had a Hornady die that had light rust but not pitted, ran it through a tumbler for several hours and it came out pretty good and has not given me any problems. It might work for you or maybe not, doesn't cost anything to try.

 

[J-B welder]

I h

I had a Hornady die that had light rust but not pitted, ran it through a tumbler for several hours and it came out pretty good and has not given me any problems. It might work for you or maybe not, doesn't cost anything to try.

Except the cost of buying a tumbler and medium. Seriously, thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Blackhawk]

I have an RCBS full-length .243 caliber full-length sizing die that was given to me by a friend, and I don't think it's been used in quite a while. The first time I used it in the used Reloader Special (1st generation) I have, it dented the shoulder of the cases I was resizing. I was very careful not to get any case lube on the neck or shoulder of the cases, so I don't think that's causing the dents. Just to be sure, I took out the decapping pin and twisted a clean cotton cloth up into the die to remove any substance that might be up there. Still dented the shoulders. Then I looked inside the die with a flashlight, and I could see what looks like a spot or two of rust around the shoulder cone, which seems like it might be what's creating the dents.

Knowing RCBS has a great reputation for standing behind their products, I sent them an email to see if they could do anything to help, and I got this reply: "I am sorry you are experiencing this issue with your die, However we do not cover any rust nor do any service on any item that has rust damage. I hope this information helps. Thank you for contacting RCBS!"

Not a surprise really, but I thought it was worth a shot. My question at this point is, is there anything that can be done with this die, and if there is, is it going to cost more than just buying a new one? Maybe a gunsmith could ream it out lightly? Thanks for any suggestions.

First as well as foremost take the die apart and give it a thorough cleaning with say Hornady One-Shot or Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. At the very least a generic brand of brake cleaner making certain to keep the solvent off of any O-Rings.
Next, I would take a flashlight with a flex tip and examine the did body itself for any debris.
If you find anything at all resume your cleaning regimen making certain that the die body itself is clean of say brass or steel chips
Pay particular attention to the insides, say the expander ball and depriming pin. If damaged replace it.
If it has a size bushing make certain it is the correct one for your need, however, I don't think that it has one. ( you neglected to state this important fact).
Now re-assemble your die and lube your brass lightly removing excess lube from the shoulder as well as the case necks OD.
Assuming that you are aware of the following information please read-only if deemed necessary!
Note as you are aware of too much lube will cause hydraulic pressure resulting in either a dimple or dent in your brass shell case's shoulder. Use only enough to slightly lubricate the case wiping any excess away.
Please make certain to wipe away any excess case lube using paper towels or your fingers as too much lubricant will cause problems with collapsing shoulders as stated above.
Finally after annealing your brass, resize, trim case length if needed, and bump your shoulder back a minimum of -.002" or more as needed.
Prime your cases then seat powder and bullet to the required jump and you are done except to check for bullet runout and adjust as needed.
Now You are done for now only if all looks good If you are still having problems I suggest sending the die back to RCBS. ( I would get a quote as to how much a die body repair costs from this manufacturer )
In that light, it may be better just to purchase a new FL die in .243 as the cost incurred while shipping both ways + the cost of a die repair may prove to be cost-prohibitive.
So just ordering a new FL resizing die maybe your best option.

 

[Philward]

Here are the best pics I could get with my phone. The one with the dimple in the bottom of the dent is the worst, and is the only one with that little dimple. Some of the dents can be felt more than seen. Couldn't get a good picture of the inside of the die.

View attachment 239508View attachment 239509

Yes, I am very new to reloading. I've been using the lubrication method shown in the RCBS die instructions I found online, which match the process shown in the Lyman manual, with a slight modification. Both of those sources show a hand placed palm-down on the cases being lubed. I put one case on an RCBS lube pad with RCBS case lube on it, and using my fingernail against the side of the case roll it one revolution across the pad without putting any downward pressure on the case. Basically trying to put as little lubrication on the case as possible but still lube the length of it. Maybe I'm still getting too much on the case though, as there were a few cases that didn't dent. Out of the 15 I sized, I think 7 had dents of varying size and depth.

These are Winchester cases purchased as factory ammunition, fired once and then full-length sized to bump the shoulder 0.002".

Cleaned the vent hole, which did have some lube in it, but nothing solid like grit. Looked fairly dirty, though. Thanks for the suggestions on how to remedy the situation so far. I will try some solvent and soft bristles to see if I can remove the surface corrosion I can see. Mainly I was trying to avoid making it worse by doing something stupid.

A couple thoughts about your lubing process, if you get lube on the case with almost no pressure pushing case on pad there may be to much lube on the pad, as a start. You should be scraping recess lube of the pad with a putty knife pressing it into the pad with 3lbs or so of pressure. Pad should not look wet. I put 6 or 7 cases on the pad, place Palm on cases and apply down pressure and roll them back and forth about 3 times. Cases should not look wet, them I run a qtip with same lube on it into the necks. Just some thoughts for you. I usually scrape the pad with putty knife periodically (50 cases or so) to clean off any stuff that may collect.

 

[Alibiiv]

Cleaned out the die, cleaned out the vent hole, and tried sizing a dozen more cases while being very careful to use a minimal amount of lube. No dents. Not sure whether it was the cleaning or just not using as much lubricant, but either way I appreciate all the suggestions and insight offered. That's what I like so much about this site: lots of people willing to share knowledge and experience to help others out.

mid just like to commend you for (1) reading the replies, (2) trying the recommendations, (3) letting the people who responded to the thread the results of their suggestions. Usually OPs will not even acknowledge responders even said anything. Thank you for this reply!!

 

[Wolf01]

Try soaking it in like kroil let it soak while. Then clean it out after you let it soak and look at it. Maybe a scotch bright pad after you soak it in the kroil or what ever penetrating oil you have will get it if it's just surface rust. If not you might just need a new die. Luckily there not to expensive if you can find them. You don't use lube on the case neck or shoulder? Didn't that kind of size hard?

Right. I personally roll my 243 and 3006 cases on the lube pad.

 

[J-B welder]

A couple thoughts about your lubing process, if you get lube on the case with almost no pressure pushing case on pad there may be to much lube on the pad, as a start. You should be scraping recess lube of the pad with a putty knife pressing it into the pad with 3lbs or so of pressure. Pad should not look wet. I put 6 or 7 cases on the pad, place Palm on cases and apply down pressure and roll them back and forth about 3 times. Cases should not look wet, them I run a qtip with same lube on it into the necks. Just some thoughts for you. I usually scrape the pad with putty knife periodically (50 cases or so) to clean off any stuff that may collect.

Good thoughts. I put as much lubricant on the pad as was specified on the bottle, but it took me a long time to get it to work into the pad, which suggests you are right that there's too much on it. When I sized the next batch of cases last night I only gave each case half-turn on the pad and then spread the lubricant out with my finger tips. Definitely took more force to get them to size, but no dents.