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Holdover shooting

I do both and prefer hold over if I can. I have a few scopes with BDC, B and C, etc with a couple extra hold over marks and the thick/thin point on a standard duplex. I started years....hell decades ago using a modified MPBR of simply 4" high at 100. I used my Oehler chronograph to print me out a trajectory and taped it to my stock. I just used animal body measurements to estimate my holds and it worked great. My distance I could hold and shoot increased greatly after I got a laser rangefinder. I never dialed until maybe the last 10 years. Now I have a couple hunting scopes with MOA and Christmas tree reticles and I just hold and never need to dial. I still dial a couple of my older standard reticle or with a couple hash marks when the distance gets longer than 5-600 yards depending on the rifle. My last four rifles I would use for long range hunting I dial for two after 5-600yds (300 RUM and a 7STW 6.5-20 VX3 standard reticle) and hold for two out to 1-1100yds (28N VX6 3-18 TMOA, 338 EDGE VX5 3-15 Impact 29).
Wow, seems like you have it down. I like the idea of holdover for simplicity and time.
 
Always thought of hold over in the context of a duplex reticle and holding the cross hairs high on the game in relation to game body size. So if going to throw MOA reticle in the mix then you can shoot as far as you want with Christmas tree MOA reticle out to 30 MOA. Do a Tall test (100 yds) with 30 moa dial up then do your MOA reticle 30 hold over. Should match each other at 31.4 inches and show if you are getting any cant in rifle or your level is off. Brain Litz has a good video on tall test. Since only the really expensive scopes have heavy duty erector sets and springs in them that return back to zero without having to take a few shots to settle back in I prefer the MOA reticle vs dial up. Not a fan of Dead Hold BDC reticle or CMS turrets since your numbers don't match up on different bullet load combinations. 1 inch tubes with moa hash marks don't cut it because the numbers and marks are to hard to see. Prefer 30 mm tube, front focal plane with 15 to 16 power on the high side so field of view is decent on hunting scope. Have routinely tested MOA reticle out to 850 yards and right on. Only 1 mans opinion
 
Always thought of hold over in the context of a duplex reticle and holding the cross hairs high on the game in relation to game body size. So if going to throw MOA reticle in the mix then you can shoot as far as you want with Christmas tree MOA reticle out to 30 MOA. Do a Tall test (100 yds) with 30 moa dial up then do your MOA reticle 30 hold over. Should match each other at 31.4 inches and show if you are getting any cant in rifle or your level is off. Brain Litz has a good video on tall test. Since only the really expensive scopes have heavy duty erector sets and springs in them that return back to zero without having to take a few shots to settle back in I prefer the MOA reticle vs dial up. Not a fan of Dead Hold BDC reticle or CMS turrets since your numbers don't match up on different bullet load combinations. 1 inch tubes with moa hash marks don't cut it because the numbers and marks are to hard to see. Prefer 30 mm tube, front focal plane with 15 to 16 power on the high side so field of view is decent on hunting scope. Have routinely tested MOA reticle out to 850 yards and right on. Only 1 mans opinion
Thanks for the great info.
 
FFP scope with something that looks like this. In this particular reticle you can hold up to 14mils of elevation. Each hash is .2 mils and your brain can split the difference. So, if you know your DOPE you can hold within ~0.1mils.
38907331-2B3E-451C-80A6-057F241D26E6.jpeg
 
FFP scope with something that looks like this. In this particular reticle you can hold up to 14mils of elevation. Each hash is .2 mils and your brain can split the difference. So, if you know your DOPE you can hold within ~0.1mils. View attachment 320910
I'm calling half value wind left to right. I was going with no value....but those horse tails has a tiny left right past the bone. Others? LOL
 
Dialing and holdover are equally effective as long as you have the proper equipment. Ie SFP vs FFP reticle and you practice a bunch and verify your load and data.
I built a rifle many years ago that would deliver a trajectory as flat as possible for the purpose of long range groundhog hunting. At 600 yards and further I began to realize that holding over was not very precise and had an element of close enough. Not very satisfying to be in the ball park. When I started dialing with a good program it became much more precise. When deer hunting, at any range 300 yards and more, I dial. Hold over becomes a guess as even with this cartridge, 30 caliber @ 4050 fps, the difference in 510 yards and 530 yards is .387" or a click and a half on 1/4 moa scope. The difference of 500 yards to 600 yards is about 1" at 100 yards or 4 clicks from 500 to 600. At even longer yardages it requires 2 clicks more for every 10 yards. I also did away with any "graffiti" or dots or dashes and have a clear sight picture with a fine crosshair. Even with a big deer, I will not shoot unless I can precisely dial and hold on. Long range hunting to me is important, at longer ranges, to take the time to make a more precise shot. It seems to be relatively quick to range distance, look at chart, dial and shoot.
 
I built a rifle many years ago that would deliver a trajectory as flat as possible for the purpose of long range groundhog hunting. At 600 yards and further I began to realize that holding over was not very precise and had an element of close enough. Not very satisfying to be in the ball park. When I started dialing with a good program it became much more precise. When deer hunting, at any range 300 yards and more, I dial. Hold over becomes a guess as even with this cartridge, 30 caliber @ 4050 fps, the difference in 510 yards and 530 yards is .387" or a click and a half on 1/4 moa scope. The difference of 500 yards to 600 yards is about 1" at 100 yards or 4 clicks from 500 to 600. At even longer yardages it requires 2 clicks more for every 10 yards. I also did away with any "graffiti" or dots or dashes and have a clear sight picture with a fine crosshair. Even with a big deer, I will not shoot unless I can precisely dial and hold on. Long range hunting to me is important, at longer ranges, to take the time to make a more precise shot. It seems to be relatively quick to range distance, look at chart, dial and shoot.
What bullet weight were you using at 4050fps?
 
I never tried horse.....how is the Prime Rib? Asking for a friend! 😂 memtb
Well every other country but the US eats it.....well pretty much eats everything we don't. Go to your local reservation and the locals will drop one or two for you to try.
 
I hunt with a guy who shot a deer the distance of 4 power poles - 400yds?
It was standing slightly uphill and he shot it on the second try with a Remington 700 30-06 , 180gr CoreLokt with iron sights. The shot was slightly up hill so I think the deer came up to meet the bullet.
 
I built a rifle many years ago that would deliver a trajectory as flat as possible for the purpose of long range groundhog hunting. At 600 yards and further I began to realize that holding over was not very precise and had an element of close enough. Not very satisfying to be in the ball park. When I started dialing with a good program it became much more precise. When deer hunting, at any range 300 yards and more, I dial. Hold over becomes a guess as even with this cartridge, 30 caliber @ 4050 fps, the difference in 510 yards and 530 yards is .387" or a click and a half on 1/4 moa scope. The difference of 500 yards to 600 yards is about 1" at 100 yards or 4 clicks from 500 to 600. At even longer yardages it requires 2 clicks more for every 10 yards. I also did away with any "graffiti" or dots or dashes and have a clear sight picture with a fine crosshair. Even with a big deer, I will not shoot unless I can precisely dial and hold on. Long range hunting to me is important, at longer ranges, to take the time to make a more precise shot. It seems to be relatively quick to range distance, look at chart, dial and shoot.
With the proper reticle and enough practice a quality FFP reticle is very accurate. HORUS reticles and the TREMOR reticles are very useful. Not as easy as dialing but very effective.
 
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