Help with Lightweight 6.5 build

[jd5521]

I do like it, functions perfect and the Leupold lense coatings do make game pop to my eyes. The two turn turret gives me plenty of elevation. The one thing that keeps it from perfection for me is the reticle. If I could get the moar installed in the vx-5hd it would be perfect.

I know what you mean. I sold my vx5's and went with the vx6hd for the tmoa reticle.

 

[6MM06AI]

Another vote for Tikka, built my first 6.5 wsm on a Tikka that was 270wsm, didn't like their recoil lug design so converted it to a Remington recoil lug. It' s tack driver, shoots a 140 berger at 3210. But if I would've known about the 6.5 Sherman short, it would be a better choice in the short action.

 

[ndthwacker]

I believe tikka makes the most accurate factory rifle out of the box. If you need a 6.5 Get there 6.5x55 and use as is or punch it to an improved. That round does incredibly well at 1k matches. If you don't have to have a 6.5 Get one in 270 short mag. Leave the factory barrel one. Get it fluted. Put a McMillan edge fill stock on it. Don't go crazy big with the scope and you will have a very nice lightweight semi custom hunting rifle. 1400 dollars without scope. It will shoot fantastic too. Shep

I do have a 6.5 needmore in a Christensen arms that i bought just to shoot alot, and i mean alot for practicing doping wind. I want a 6.5ss for what it is. I live on a ranch and have a range out my back door that i just slide open my patio door and shoot from inside the house that has paper targets hung on new cardoard the size of a pallet and moa steel beside it out to 1500. So a 1000 yard rifle is not my only goal or id just stick with my 7mag or 300win or 338lm in which each is missing something the 6.5ss has. But i do appreciate the input and will probley take your advice in a future build.

 

[ndthwacker]

View attachment 121715 If the budget is thrown out the window then you may talk to Bettin custom rifles. He builds carbon fiber stocks with his own carbon fiber magazine system. He took my lone peaks barreled action and hand built my stock and DBM. With a 26" carbon 6 Bull barrel chambered in 26 nosler, lone peak titanium long action, hell fire brake, and swaro x5I scope the rifle weighs in right at 8 pounds. He also builds entire rifles with his own carbon barrels with 1/2 guarantee. The stock he did for me is identical to a manners EH 1 but with a little bit slimmer forearm.

You kinda just got me arroused. U have almost what i want to the T. I just cant do a 26nosler due to barrel life. I dont mind replacing barrels as i see them like tires. U dont put tires on a car and not drive it due to having to many ponies behind them and not wanting to replace ur tires cuz u cant get off the pedal. But by the time i get done with ammo and powder and seating and ammo temp and rifle temp testing i kinda need those 600 rounds to feel like i know the ins and outs in my guns.

 

[ndthwacker]

I've built plenty of borden action hunting rifles with McMillan stocks and match barrels for under 3g. Before you spend a fortune figure out the cost of all your parts and how much a smith charges to do each part of the build. Even using the best parts you won't be much over 3k. A lot of places have a price for a custom. Big money. But do the math and ask your smith if he can do it for that price. Example. Borden action. 1400. McMillan stock. 550 match barrel 325 bottom metal 150 jewel trigger 225. Total 2650 in parts. Now 200 for chamber. 200 for pillar bed. 200 for finish on metal. 3250 for a complete custom rifle. Some places charge 5k for this. What was all the extra money for. Profit. Only 600 bucks of work there. Add 175 for a complete brake job. Sub any parts you want. Shep

I 100% agree with you. I dont see why i cant order all the parts i want and still stay close to 3 grand and put the action of choice. Sometimes i wonder if builders just start adding in extra when a person hands them a build sheet without

I have had three rifles chambered with the same reamer for the same caliber using the same barrels. ALL three rifles performed better on different loads with different bullets. Point being, you never can tell what the barrel is going to like. Attempting to save time on load development is a noble idea, however you may find it to work differently than you expect.

That is very good info, thank you. But do all our significant others have to know this? I thought it was a pretty good excuse for us all, is it not?

 

[ndthwacker]

I had a 6.5 GAP (SAUM) built on a stainless Tikka last fall. It's got a 1.15 shank 24" Proof. Sitting in a Mcmillain Edge Fill Game Hunter stock. Factory Tikka trigger with aftermarket spring. And a Terminator T3 brake. Weighs 8.5 lbs loaded and scoped with the SIG Whiskey 5 if I remember correctly
View attachment 121712 View attachment 121713 View attachment 121714

You guys are making me impatient. Very nice looking rig. 8.5lbs scoped is impressive. What would you compare the recoil of your saum with a brake to?

 

[ndthwacker]

We have a huge difference in opinion on the definition of " Lightweight ", to me 8lbs is 1.5 to 2 lbs beyond lightweight. You have good options for actions. Look at just a new Rem 700 action, I've seen them for <$200

I have a 6.5 mtn rifles inc 338lapua if thats lightweight, but thats unscoped. I probley didnt word this thread right but when you have multiple different questions to ask and would like multiple differnt opinions i kinda have to leave everything fairly vauge. I am torn between what is light and what is to light. To be honest i can shoot my 338lapua better then i can a 300win mag in the same weight rifle.. the type of kick between the 2 are alot differnt in my opinion, the 338 is more of a solid shove if u let it and dont fight it, while the 300wm feels like a bomb went off. I have never shot a 6.5ss so im also not sure if a 8lb rifle scoped will hirt or not. I may add starting to have kids now makes me think differently in how a rifle kicks.

 

[ndthwacker]

I agree to an extent.. on the light weight thing. A bare rifle 6lbs or under is definitely what I call ultralight. However that's pencil barrels typically, which isn't my thing. I have come to like heavier barrels and so I feel anything with a heavy barrel (or a carbon wrapped) under 7lbs bare rifle is pretty good. Depends on that the end user is looking for. If a guy is on a budget and just wants an accurate light weight rifle I recommend buying a Tikka or a Sako A7 and getting it fluttered. Hard to beat for the price

You said it better then me.

 

[ndthwacker]

Another vote for Tikka, built my first 6.5 wsm on a Tikka that was 270wsm, didn't like their recoil lug design so converted it to a Remington recoil lug. It' s tack driver, shoots a 140 berger at 3210. But if I would've known about the 6.5 Sherman short, it would be a better choice in the short action.

Im hoping to get close to 3200 with the 143eldx or 147eldm, even though they are so inconsistent in weight. If i ran my numbers right i should be able to get to 1000 in under 20moa. I'm assuming its taking u 19-20 moa to get to 1000?

 

[Tikkamike]

I have a 6.5 mtn rifles inc 338lapua if thats lightweight, but thats unscoped. I probley didnt word this thread right but when you have multiple different questions to ask and would like multiple differnt opinions i kinda have to leave everything fairly vauge. I am torn between what is light and what is to light. To be honest i can shoot my 338lapua better then i can a 300win mag in the same weight rifle.. the type of kick between the 2 are alot differnt in my opinion, the 338 is more of a solid shove if u let it and dont fight it, while the 300wm feels like a bomb went off. I have never shot a 6.5ss so im also not sure if a 8lb rifle scoped will hirt or not. I may add starting to have kids now makes me think differently in how a rifle kicks.

It's almost nonexistent, 223 ish??

 

[Michael O'Connor]

I would go with the 6.5 SS and the Tikka, very versatile cartridge and a very good action.

 

[WildRose]

So i finally decided what caliber im going to build around. I was going to build a 28nosler but just cant do the barrel life. So i decided to have a 6.5ss built. Im gunna start ordering parts in the next few days. I know i want it on a manners Eh1 stock with a 22 or 24in proof sendero. Timmney F/E trigger. My real question is what action to build it off of.
I have tossed around the ideas of buying a blueprint from ptg, but at the price why not get one of the big name custom actions. Or should i just find an old savage, sako, winchester, rem as i am trying to keep everything between 2500-3000 but still be fairly lightweight around 8lbs.
Also what about just buying a tika t3 in 300wsm and building off that.
Im open to any ideas on what direction to go with the action and bottom metal. The age old question what would you do?
Also if looking for a cheap used rifle what are the best to convert into a 6.5ss.
One last thing, for the proof sendero barrel large shank or small shank?
Thanks for your input

Pick up a junker Model 70 or or Model 700 at a gun show or pawn shop and just have it trued while doing your build and you'll have everything you want at a reasonable price.

 

[6MM06AI]

I do like the 700, but I don't think I'm good enough to open the rails in the action to handle the 404 jefrey case diameter. easier to find and build off of a ultramag action for that case. If he can find a gunsmith to do that for him they would also be great options.

 

[alf]

Just for reference.....

700 long action, fluted bolt, factory BDL bottom metal, McMillan Edge Game Scout, 24" 6.5 Bartlein 2b, Trigger Tech trigger....

7 pounds on the nuts: