• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Help Newbie Build Lightweight Rifle

Just barely over your budget is a used Weatherby Mark V ultralight six lug. I bought a .25-06 and a .270 Win. Since I had so much success with Tasco I suggest put on a World Class 4-16X40 until you can afford something better for low light. After you get your rifle you start saving again for a stock. It's taken me a few years now, but my .270 now has a Proof Research (28oz). The factory stock weighs 36oz. Both rifles sport a Bushnell 6500 4 1/2-30X50 (22oz) in Talley lightweight rings. The other has a Pac-Nor barrel and a Pendleton Stock (21oz).

The idea is EVERY WEEK you have to put away $10-$20 away in an envelope. It is not an emergency fund. When it goes into the envelope, it is GONE! When you get ready to buy a scope get ready to spend a couple hours on bing or google. I was able to get two scopes at twenty bucks over cost from new dealers trying to get started. It was a couple years between the two scopes and not the same dealer. But I invested a couple hours and saved a couple hundred both times.
 
I would look at a sako a7 rough tech pro, with stainless fluted barrel. Triple lug action, a good trigger you can tune down to 1.75lbs, that's where I got mine to. A bell and Carlson free floated stock, comes in 6.5 and 308 among other calibers. I have the roughtech range and it's a great shooter, probably my best shooting gun actually. It's 1lb over ur weight but for the extra pound I figure just fast the day before u go hunting.
 
Why the sarcasm..
Timberelk is asking for serious advice no need to discourage that
 
Not quite. If that were the case why would anyone spend the money for a custom built rifle when a 600.00 Tikka can do the same thing.

I can tell you for a fact that my plastic tikka stock weighs 2 pounds even, so if you put a carbon fiber stock on there that finished at 20 oz you would have a 5.5 pound rifle that will shoot as good as most customs.
 
Another Tikka "convert" here....
And, not slamming any other brand. It is great to have so many god choices out there. While the fit and finish on todays firearms is not the old world craftsmanship we once saw ( and still miss....) - the technology employed at any given price point is better.
1.The barrels are Sako barrels. This is NOT myth, wish or urban legend. It is confirmed by Beretta USA - who distribute Tikka in the USA. They are not 2nds, nor are they a "lower spec" barrel. SAME as on Sako rifles.
2.Sako barrels are legendary for lightweight, accurate hunting barrels. They re not "steel shooter" barrels. Because they are lightweight - you will get stringing if you do not allow for cooling the barrel during your sight in process. But - how many shots do you ever get at a live target? You can rush 2 or 3 shots on a Tikka with all the accuracy needed to hunt.
3. The Tikka action - from the factory - will set any Remington 700 for smooth, easy - even "slick" action. Even my 700's that have been gunsmith "blueprinted" and lug polished are not as good as an out-of-the-box Tikka T3.
4.LIGHT....if you want a magnum round, get your gunsmith to install a Harrell's Precision radial brake on it. Makes a tremendous difference....
5.One action length means that customization/changing caliber in the future is less limiting than other brands. The magazines use a "block" for the adjustment for long vs short action calibers. ( Why long actions are frowned on is a complex cobweb of "clutter" and opinion. THEY WORK. And - if the gun is lightly built - the action length is not a focus of mine. One could ( enter eye roll here...) argue "cycle times" and extra weight....But in the practical world of hunting....Just not an issue.

Full disclosure: I own Savage, Remington Browning, and a few others....But I am buying more Tikka than anything else. I love the .300 Win Mag so much - I bought a second one just because -fun!
 
Why the sarcasm..
Timberelk is asking for serious advice no need to discourage that

I was being serious...scope and rings is like 2lbs. If ur wanting a bare bones rifle for packing, use open sights. But sorry it did read that way.
I use a backpack sling and just lug my 13lb rifles around lol
 
I've noticed a big difference in price points going from a 6.5 lb gun to a 5.5 lb gun. I doubt you could start from scratch and achieve anything less than the 6.5 lb range. With that budget, best to buy a light weight gun off the shelf. Basically what most have mentioned already.
 
The lightest barreled actions is 4.5lbs (20" barrel) blues 2.15 stock wright brings the rifle to 6.65lbs which is light but weatherby has their wilderness model with a 24" barerel that weights 6.75lbs for $799
I was being serious...scope and rings is like 2lbs. If ur wanting a bare bones rifle for packing, use open sights. But sorry it did read that way.
I use a backpack sling and just lug my 13lb rifles around lol

Same here! I also use a Kifaru gunbearer (https://store.kifaru.net/gun-bearers-p30.aspx), an excellent investment in my opinion.
 
Take the savage that won't shoot sell the barrel and stock. Buy a good quality prefit in the chamber and contour you want. 300-400 will get you a good barrel. Pay a smith 75$ to headspace and install. Buy a bc or hs prescion stock. Done deal. You should have enough in your budget to get a decent scope. I recently hought a vortex viper hs lr 4-16. Not a bad scope for the money and should fit your budget.
 
I can't see how you would get to 5.5 lbs. for $1000 no matter what your gunsmith charges. Now a 6.5 lb rifle is very doable and could be purchased in the used gun market, something like a Kimber Montana or some other brand like others have mentioned.
I think unless major changes to stock, barrel contour and action mods are made $1000 is not going to get you there.
JMHO
BB
 
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top