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Gunsmith Lathe - Grizzly or Precision Matthews

Looking into a good GS Lathe, narrowed it down to Grizzly and Precision Matthews, 14x40 both with 2" spindle, anyone with experience with both, anything that sticks out as better over the other brand? Do you recommend the DRO? Just overall satisfaction of either units, will be used for personal builds and future builds for public. Thanks.
No Griz experience. I bought a PM 1340 GT couple years ago to learn on with kind of the same thought you have. I didn't get it with DRO but added within the first 6 months of running it. Way nicer to work with. I do some of my own gun stuff but use it now more for making/fixing parts for my equipment and buddies equipment. It's challenging and fun. As far as rifle work I was taught to work between centers not thru headstock so the through hole diameter not an issue. My only "complaint" is I would like it to turn slower. 90rpm is lowest setting. IDK if a variable speed machine would start st 0? I also bought a PM bench top mill. Good for hobby and working on stocks but I would suggest a heavier set up (knee type)for serious milling. My .02 FWIW I'm still pretty green. Good luck!!
 
No Griz experience. I bought a PM 1340 GT couple years ago to learn on with kind of the same thought you have. I didn't get it with DRO but added within the first 6 months of running it. Way nicer to work with. I do some of my own gun stuff but use it now more for making/fixing parts for my equipment and buddies equipment. It's challenging and fun. As far as rifle work I was taught to work between centers not thru headstock so the through hole diameter not an issue. My only "complaint" is I would like it to turn slower. 90rpm is lowest setting. IDK if a variable speed machine would start st 0? I also bought a PM bench top mill. Good for hobby and working on stocks but I would suggest a heavier set up (knee type)for serious milling. My .02 FWIW I'm still pretty green. Good luck!!
Thanks for the information, I will definitely keep in mind the speed settings. I know you mentioned Mill for stock work, when you purchase stocks for builds are you buying them pre-inlet for a specific action and need to clean it up to make it work?
 
Thanks for the information, I will definitely keep in mind the speed settings. I know you mentioned Mill for stock work, when you purchase stocks for builds are you buying them pre-inlet for a specific action and need to clean it up to make it work?
Yea the few stocks I've messed with were minor things. Open up barrel channels and one where the bolt wouldn't clear. I've never full on inletted a flat top or anything like that.
 
No, on machining experience, it will be self taught and what reading material I can get my hands on. The long goal is to get good enough at it that I can use it for making money on the side and when I do retire. I would love to find a school close to my location that could teach threading and chambering, but nothing I have found is nearby.
I think getting your lathe is a good first step, then decide what else you need as you learn the process's step by step. Machine work , even simple threading and chambering requires a good bit of understanding if you want to turn out good work. Be careful not to get wrapped up in the lathe via loose cloths etc., run at low RPM'S until you get familiar as they are powerful ! ! Practice on any solid bar at first. Find someone who knows machine work to help you.
 
I can imagine it would be tough and take a long time to make any money doing gunsmithing but what about a niche market for browning or weatherby mark v's ?
 
I have had the Grizzly 12x36" G4003 (I think it's probably their most popular and common metal lathe) since 2000. In all that time, the only problem I ever had with it was a motor overload protection module went out recently. Grizzly support was good at helping resolve the issue. For the money, I don't think you can beat it. There's also a "gunsmith" G4003G version, which is $1000 more, has a 0.010" larger bore, spider mount (I made my own with a drill and a tap), claimed better bearings, and claimed shipping weight is about 300 pounds more. I don't know what the additional weight is from, as all the other specs seem to be the same as the G4003.

I have seen the PM, mainly heavily promoted in YouTube videos by a guy called gavintoobe and his Ultimate Reloader channel. To me, the PM looked about like the G4003 and seemed to me to be essentially the same lathe as the G4003/G4003G for about the same money. I think he got the PM either free or discounted in exchange for promoting it.

Another nice thing about the G4003 is that, in a world of frequently discontinued models, the G4003 has stood the test of time and has been available for many years, and probably will remain so for many more. I have many Grizzly machines, and never any problems with any of them. Excellent USA customer service, too. Back when I bought my G4003, the manual for it was poor, B&W, and very skimpy. They say their new manuals are all full color and written by Americans.

I also recently put a DRO on both my G4003 and a few years ago on my Grizzly mill. I HIGHLY recommend them. Source is
DRO Pros
Easy installation, with outstanding directions, both written and videos, all done by Americans in real American English. Excellent customer service. It greatly improved my accuracy and ease of use on both machines.

And finally, here's an excellent video about the founder of Grizzly. A true American success story and a fascinating and talented person:
Grizzly history
 
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14x40 is overkill for what you're talking about doing. 12x36 will do any gun, unless maybe you're planning to build BMGs. Grizzly's "gunsmith-specific" lathe is 12x36. Put the extra money toward a DRO and tooling. You'll eventually have at least as much invested in your tooling as in your lathe. The vast majority of your work will be in the left-hand 6 inches or so of the lathe. I have yet to wish I had a longer or bigger diameter lathe. 2" spindle sounds good, but you aren't likely to be working on barrels over 1.5" diameter, the G4003/G4003G spindle size.
Looking into a good GS Lathe, narrowed it down to Grizzly and Precision Matthews, 14x40 both with 2" spindle, anyone with experience with both, anything that sticks out as better over the other brand? Do you recommend the DRO? Just overall satisfaction of either units, will be used for personal builds and future builds for public. Thanks.
 
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14x40 is overkill for what you're talking about doing. 12x36 will do any gun, unless maybe you're planning to build BMGs. Grizzly's "gunsmith-specific" lathe is 12x36. Put the extra money toward a DRO and tooling. You'll eventually have at least as much invested in your tooling as in your lathe. The vast majority of your work will be in the left-hand 6 inches or so of the lathe. I have yet to wish I had a longer or bigger diameter lathe. 2" spindle sounds good, but you aren't likely to be working on barrels over 1.5" diameter, the G4003/G4003G spindle size.
Thank you for your feedback and experience using the Grizzly, I will definitely keep what you mentioned in mind. Thank you.
 
On that I will add is a long bed gives you options. The 10K I used had a 4' bed. Everything was done between centers and it was long enough. Now, with the PM1340GT I do most work through the headstock. I've yet to wish it had a larger spindle although a little shorter would be nice. 22" is a short as I can effectively go in the headstock. I don't use the longer bed often but I'd be lost without it. I put barrels between centers to polish.

Unless you don't have the space I'd go for the longest bed you can fit.

I'd also second the suggestion abound to get the 12" and spend twice the money on tooling. If money isn't an option…
 
My 13 x 40 that is my 'gunsmithing' lathe has been about the right size. Heavy enough I can "peal some steel", enough swing for any tool making, and long enough I can thread shotgun barrels for choke tubes. Get too big and it will become cumbersome, especially if you're planning on using a floating holder in the tail stock.
 
A tailstock floating spider (modified Royal live center) in the 1440 has its use at times. 6.5x47 take off bolt gun reourposed into a 6.5 Grendel. Chambered in the headstock, turned a short journal past the shoulder to indicate when barrel is flipped. Picture was taken during turning to match the barrel extension OD.

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No, on machining experience, it will be self taught and what reading material I can get my hands on. The long goal is to get good enough at it that I can use it for making money on the side and when I do retire. I would love to find a school close to my location that could teach threading and chambering, but nothing I have found is nearby.
Just have an old Southbend gearbox 10x36 for my turning duties. Side note regarding teaching yourself. I bought the American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) DVD courses on Machine shop (16 DVDs), Welding (maybe 10-12 DVDs...loaned out at present), and Reloading (4 DVDs). Found them very beneficial. I started out as a Mechanical Engineer so understand machining practices, but virtually zero hands on experience.....keyboard/armchair machinist...:) :) :) (Really didn't even practice engineering for very long as I recognized my max value-added was driving/conjuring/setting the vision of what the engineers needed to engineer to drive corporate success.) The courses are expensive at MSRP......full Machine Shop (16 DVDs) and Welding (10-12 DVDs) courses about $1400 each; individually (6 DVDs each) Lath and Mill ($480 each often offered at 30% off...check for code like CMAS2021 at year end); Reloading maybe $500, as I recall.......possibility not worth the cost at MSRP. However, when AGI moved their inventory and fulfillment from CA to East coast, I bought all three at around $1000, as I recall, including Darrel Holland Precision Long Range Reloading DVD bonus. Student gunsmiths in the AGI program get these DVD courses in their training. You might search for a graduate AGI gunsmith that might no longer need those DVD courses, making available for a great price. One AGI graduate gunsmith (Jeb or Jed) at First Gunsmithing, Valley Park, MO. 63088...(636) 825-6606 [email protected].
 

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