Gun safe recommendations?

[A220stw]

Think about how much money is going to sit inside your safe..
Then think about how much you want to spend on a safe..
I lost all my guns due to a cheap safe..
Only 2 brands to look at are SturdySafes or Security Products.
Made of plate steel not sheet rock and tin.
Had mine custom built and shipped from Sacramento California to Texas for $2200
That was cost of 1 scope stole from cheap safe.

 

[Barrelnut]

For the best fire protection, I have read the best place to put a safe is against an outside wall. That is where the least heat in a house fire is.
Also the keypad models come with a key that is behind the keypad so the safe can still be opened if the keypad failed for some reason.

 

[BigGrizz]

Superior safe. Structurally better than most of your list, not as expensive as Ft Knox.

 

[Riflehunter1776]

here's another way to look at the burglary problem: get a 50 lb mini safe, fill it up with 100 lbs of lead, and cover it with gun stickers or set a couple of printouts of gold coin receipts next to it. then let the burglar waste time and blow out a hernia carrying it out to his van.

 

[dfanonymous]

I agree with the folks saying that with metal cutting tools a safe is vunerable and I'll admit I really only have one as a deterrent. Most from the kids and guest. Next is if we are gone, it's unlikely that anyone is going to be able to move it since it's bolted to the ground, next is they'll have to bring their own tools and set up before they go to do work. By then the alarm on the house, and the alarm to the safe will either notify the police or my app and I'll call the police. Either way.

 

[jebel]

Preface: I own a safe designed to protect top secret government computer servers. It's 1/2 steel plate and weights 1650 lbs.

That said, if I were buying one today, I would look at the modular variants. You assemble them, they're generally lighter weight (some much lighter), and you retain both options when your collection changes as well as convenience when you need to move it. I don't really believe the fire protection marketed for safes should be a high priority. The stats on how long anything lasts in them is measured in minutes. Just maintain good insurance and position your safe in the house as you see fit. I think the primary reasons for a safe are to keep out unprepared people (your kids and their friends, most house thieves, etc.). Anyone who knows you have a safe can get into it with a couple power tools from Home Depot and a bit of time.

Regardless, after several internal safe remodels, the one solution I have found that I would recommend are the products from Gun Storage Solutions.
https://www.storemoreguns.com/

They are elegantly simple, and they work. They allow me to store more guns, more easily.

 

[longactionHNTR]

I own a Liberty Fatboy JR. I couldn't be happier. I feel it is a decent safe for the money. That being said I know what I have. A safe that would be lucky to save my valuables in a fire, and it's a burglar deterrent. Bottom line is if someone wants to steal your things, they will.

 

[teele1]

I'm no expert but...here are two links for youtube videos regarding HOW safes are built and how good the safe may be




FWIW i bought a Liberty back in early 200 from C&E

 

[oldfortyfiveauto]

http://zanottiarmor.com/

Forget fire protection. You won't get much with all these residential security boxes. The drywall out gasses moisture to keep the temperature down and ruins everything in there in the process. Also avoid electronic locks. It's not a question of if they will fail, but when.

 

[Krowen]

I have a rotary dial on mine, I do have to put my glasses on to operate it but I have heard about electronic malfunctions with the keypads . I will never regret buying the biggest safe they offered. In fact I would like another sitting next to it now. I bought an Iron Man Safe made locally here in Idaho and am very happy with it. It is fire rated also but in the event of a fully engulfed house fire I don't believe any of them will protect your firearms. They will be ruined. That is the information I was tought when I was a volunteer firefighter. Maybe someone could chime in on that as I don't have any first hand experience. They Fire Chief also said the best place to put a safe is next to a concrete wall if you have one in your home. I have kids and they have friends over all the time, knowing my guns are locked up gives me piece of mind.

I've

Looking at my local dealer, I have the options of

Summit Series
Browning
Liberty
Fort Knox
Champion
Bighorn

What options / upgrades have you enjoyed? What is a must? What is a waste of time?

ive had a Summit since 04 and it has been great. I keep mine in the garage since I couldn't get it in the basement. Summit is one of the heaviest for size safes out there and weight is strength. I would get a key pad and buy the biggest safe you can afford because none of them are big enough.

 

[SavageHunter11]

I have a co-worker who bought a Sturdy brand gun safe with their "Stainless Elite" package and "Hard Plate" upgrade. That safe appears to be pretty stout from what I've seen of it but it better be for the price. I'm looking for a new safe and I'm definitely considering one. Even at $4500+ for one the size and package I want, that's the price of one of the rifles I will be putting in there, and then it doesn't seem as expensive (or at least that's what I tell my wife and myself). I'd say give them a look if you are willing to spend $3k+ on a safe but that's just my opinion and I will say I don't personally have one (yet...).

 

[maj13]

Agree with jebel and like the Zanotti recommendation from oldfortyfiveauto. Lot's of flexibility in where it can go, much easier to move if needed, and adds a potential security layer most other safes lack-- ability to hide/disguise it relatively easily. Build one inside a clothes closet, and it might not even be noticed during a quick break-in.

 

[Tex_Hunter]

Amsec BF HD is the only one remotely built like a true safe (poured cement fire liner with 1/4" steel liner inside). Also has the same door and bolt work of their actual TL-15 safes (plate steel instead of composite made of multiple layers of thin sheet steel). Its also probably the only one even remotely capable of achieving anything resembling fire resistance.

Next best would be the Ft. Knox ONLY if you opt for the additional steel layers on the inside. Still uses glorified drywall for "fire resistance" though which can destroy your valuables even if they dont burn, and if its a hot fire the drywall crumbles and falls of the walls (the additional steel on the inside mitigates this to a degree).

If you just need a lockbox that keeps kids out and slows down thieves, get a Sturdy safe and skip the fire liner.

Other than the Ft Knox, everything else on your list is trash, they arent even remtely fire resistant, and wont even provide meaningful resistance to anyone with a prybar/help.

People may get upset by that, but its mind boggling how some people spend thousands of dollars on guns and then buy the gas station vending machine condom equivalent of a "safe" to protect it all. Just buy a $200 security cabinet if you are going to be that much of a cheapskate.

 

[Tex_Hunter]

Just maintain good insurance and position your safe in the house as you see fit.

This is good advice generally, but one thing to consider is our current political climate. The question may not always be whether the insurance pay enough money to replace stolen/burned valuables, but rather IF you even be able to buy them back at all (ie. if you own a few ARs and they end up being banned/restricted in the near future, doesnt matter how much money insurance gives you if they were to get destroyed in a house fire).

Increasing legislative pressure on firearms is also going to significantly increase their value to thieves meaning you cant rely on the simple protection agains a smash and grab burglar anymore.

These two factors played into me buying the best safe I could afford when we moved houses recently.