PredatorSlayer
Well-Known Member
One valid argument I have heard for a wheel gun is when/if the encounter got up close and personal, a semi auto will likely not Cycle when you have the barrel jammed up against fur and teeth.
What brand bullets and how much 800x are you using? Muzzle velocities?I carry a gen 4 Glock 20 with hi viz sights and a stainless KKM barrel. I Reload a 200gr wfn-GC with 800x. This is my defense load while hiking/hunting in black bear country
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Personal opinion Period.You are kidding right?. The S&W 500 states for bear use nothing less than a 500 grain bullet..... The BEST BEAR DEFENSE IS BEAR SPRAY..... period. No if and or buts... Wyoming had made it a requirement to have bear spray in certain areas. You need to check the latest Wyoming regulations.... If you go with the 10, make sure and save the last bullet for yourself.......
Bear spray is my first defense with a 45 long colt for back up.
I wouldn't use a hollow point. If I were going to use a jacketed bullet it would be a swift a frame.The argument that a 200 grain had similar velocity and energy as a 300 grain from a larger cartridge doesn't account for a big difference in the momentum of the heavier slug. I hunt with a .454 Casull and my previous hunting handgun was a .44 mag. I shot a 600+ lb. black bear twice in the chest with it. Found both bullets under the hide in the back of the far side hind quarter. But he didn't drop at the first shot. If he were attacking he would have chewed me up in the time he would have still been up. A forest service report I read suggested the .458 Win mag and 500 grain soft points as the most reliable to stop a griz right now. I've hunted in Alaska and been close to grizzlies, they dwarf black bears. I stood one down armed with my .44 and a can of bear spray and seriously feared for my life. That .44 felt like a toy. For me, I'll be carrying a .44 or bigger double action in a chest holster loaded with a stout hollow point for maximum damage with the one or two shots a guy might get off.
I have a S&W 500 that has the muzzle brake. Shoot it all day& drive nails with it.....I see threads all over about "recoil" and "reduced loads"..........it makes me think someone is in the wrong sport.....but then again I lived in Alaska for quite a while........I'd rather have a good accurate 10mm hardcast for bear backup than a 500 s&w that you can't control. Hits count misses don't and in a life or death bear encounter, what good will a big bore 475,454 or 500 do if one can't shoot accurately and effectively? Most likely a big 500 or 454 won't be a drt hit either unless it's a brain or central nervous system hit.
I carry one of two guns. A Glock 20 loaded with 200 grain hard cast or FMJ. Also, a red hawk 4.2 inch barrel loaded with 360 grain cast performance bullets. Two years ago I was charged by a eight or 900 pound cow moose and stopped it with four shots from the Glock 20 loaded with 200 Grain FMJ bullets.Great thread!
I've been looking at a new side arm for bear protection in the Thorofare area of Wyoming as well. I was in the area 3 days after the outfitter was killed in 2018. Many factors exist as to why this happened! 1) gun location when needed 20+ feet away from it's operator at the time of attack
2) gun condition-empty chamber.
3) unfamiliar hunter trying to operate the Glock under stress
I've looked at the G20 and dismissed it because of the power range, good but not great. The reliability problem potential, such as dust, fine trail dust gets into everything. I carry a semi as an edc and when I worked in ranging conditions. Just don't see them for me in a bear protection role.
My ideal sidearm.
1)short bbl, 3" approx,m is a key factor as when your being thrown around by brother bear big guns get difficult to position.
Autos can have a functioning issue when fired at contact distance, law enforcement has dealt with this for years.
Behind thrust into fur and fat may cause malfunctions like down coats can with modern autos.
2)As light and small as possible/practical because it must always be on your person, a boy scout issue...be prepared!
3) 41 mag min....FPE
4) revolvers - because they generally always go bang. Ammo malfunctions don't require 2 hands to clear. The number of shots afforded will likely be 1. Possibly 2. At the start of the fight. This is also likely to be at contact distance fight. Giving up the velocity from a long barrel seems better than trying to properly position a 6" bbl with one hand while being chewed on. Also, double action because your fighting for you r life. Manually working a SA is a lot to remember as bones are crunching. Muscle memory is a factor.
Considerations
1) Redhawk 4" 41 or 44, it's heavy
2) pre lock 629 3" 44 it's heavy
2-a) I own a 657 3" 41, same heavy
3) Reeder GP100 conversion in 41 mag 3-4"
4) taurus tracker in 44 with 4"
And...
5) I've looked at tthe Charter Arms 41 mag pug with 2.5" bbl.....25 oz and am going to handle one. They are not a Ruger or a Smith but they are half the cost and weight and if they are reliable they are worthy of a look.
My 2 cents
What brand bullets and how much 800x are you using? Muzzle velocities?
Somebody may know the details on this but I've read several times on several similar threads. Am I correct they (wardens) carry the g20 at the North Pole for polar bear deterrent?
The 10mm with Buffalo Bore cast loads should work ok.Going to try the Buffalo Bore 220 gr in my Glock. next yr going to Wyoming and will be packing it. Looking for a respectable handload since I have not reloaded in awhile. Do the 10mm Glock prefer any brass brand over another ? Thank you. Ed