JayCee49
Active Member
Differences are very slight!
I forgot to ask: will the casings that you resized take primers or are the primer pockets stretched? If the pockets aren't stretched, get a die opened out to fit the chamber and don't worry about it. Most mil-spec chambers are on the outside edge of SAAMI specs for reliability in feeding and ejection. Brass is always hard to size from them, but if the primer pocket isn't ruined, it can still be used. I have much the same problem with my HK 91. I have to size the brass twice before it will fit in my Remington 700. This isn't a problem with an M1A with a match chamber, but I've seen it happen with standard M1A's and with BM59 rifles, due to the slightly larger mil-spec chamber. As to the dimensions of the 7.62X51 and the .308 Winchester, they are EXACTLY the same. The difference is in brass thickness and maximum pressure. The .308 is actually loaded to about 4,000 cup higher MAP than the 7.62, which isn't really much. Lee or RCBS will make you a custom die to fit your chamber.I've had a number of gas guns over the years. Best guess is you were blessed with a generously sized chamber. Greenejc hit the nail on the head. Nato chambers are not the same as a Wylde or match chamber. If we were talking about a bolt gun, this situation would be unacceptable, at least for me. Since we are dealing with a gas gun, which seems to shoot really well, I'd have a custom die made and call it a day. Having an accurate AR10 which will except just about any kind of 308 ammo you want to stuff in the mag? Bonus! Seriously, I've had overly tight chambers opened up in my AR's over the years. Made life way easier and they never lost a hint of accuracy.
You no doubt know this, but, just in case, don't expect long brass life from a gas gun. My M1A is not kind to it's brass. Max is 4 reloadings, and that's with mil spec brass. My AR's are better, but still nothing like a bolt gun. Best of luck with the new smoke pole!
I'm curious too. Got home late from work. I will get some mic'ed up tomorrow and post.So what is the actual measurement of your fired brass at the web just above the extractor groove and at the neck shoulder junction? This measurement is best taken with a micrometer but a caliper will suffice.
Those are cartridge specs, not chamber specs.,
Tell them you want your money back. Go buy a properly built rifle. A chamber that is a full .01 over Saami spec is not just a little loose for functionality reasons. .002 over Saami min might be reasonable, what you got is just bad build quality. The fact they pretty much told u to pound sand on the chamber and the **** poor barrel threading tells me this is not a gun .most non-battle users will be happy with. At the big dollars they charge gor these guns they should be spectacular. The fact they wont run recommend factory ammo is really poor performance.Sounds like the main issue is contained with this barrel as set up.
-You could sell the weapon.
-You could throw more money at a barrel spec'd to your desire.
-The manufacturer may accomodate to your wishes at a moderate cost.
You certainly show solid knowledge in reloading and its a shame you are here. Tough decision.
Weigh everything on cost to meet your goal. Then decide if it's worth it.
The maker told him the gun is delivered to their acceptable specs. Asking for a refund is NOT all guns blazing. He has already asked them for a resolution, at least the way I read his post, and they told him the gun he got is what the designed it to be. It was however no where close to what he expected to receive nor did the manufacturer disclose they where clambering rifles way looser than Saami spec. If they will refund his money and take the gun back everyone is satisfied. Negotiating for properly chambered barrels with proper threading is going to be a long drawn out affair. That is not what you pay big bucks for a high end gun to get.And if you go in guns blazing like these two above, you'll throw away your first opportunity to get a satisfactory outcome. Lay out your case. Ask them for a resolution. If they don't play nice, then you move it up to the next notch. If they are accredited by multiple organizations, like BBB, NSSF, etc, you can push there.
Don't fold your cards and start shooting up the works. That's a loser move.
ASK, not demand. If u ever let it get to lawyers u are way past screwed. No gun is expensive enough to warrant paying a lawyer to deal with a problem. You would be far better off to just suck up the cost of putting a properly chambered and threaded new barrel on. I never said be belligerent but you do have to ask for what u want. Making the manufacturer have to figure out what will make u happy is not a winning proposition. If they turn down the refund request, now it is time to work the process but unless u ask u won't have any chance of getting the best outcome.And, if he paid cash and no way to dispute the charges on a card, what now? This company can pass off something that looks good but doesn't work well. Then that's the path you stay on. Work the issues. Demanding goes no where.
I'm in it right now with one of the most recognizable gun parts suppliers in the business. You don't demand anything from them. You work the process. They have better lawyers than I can supply.
I started reading this thread but got pulled away so I'm not up to speed. However, I did hear someone stated it's likely because it's a gas gun!! Maybe. Hopefully I'm not rehashing this. A friend who is also retired military asked if I'd reload som 308 (mostly good quality federal brass but there was a lot of NATO range brass Too. He dropped off the RCBS dies too. I prepared the Brass as per my regular method and away I went; attempting to FL Resize. First couple were very difficult but no stuck cases. 3rd was even more difficult so I stopped there. Long story short. I like you tried 3 different dies. I wasn't till I used the Hornady American series and a little more spray lube that I could get all this different case head Brass (7.62 included) to size smoothly.I just got a factory new AR10 chambered in 7.62 NATO (308Win). My first 7.62 auto loader. I am a reloader. I have been doing it for 30 years now. I have been an active Bench Rest, PRS, and IDPA competitor and, reload for all those disciplines. I also reload all my hunting ammo. So, I am pretty sure I know what I am doing and am confident my equipment is up to and exceeds par.
Using a box of new Lapua 308 Win brass I had on hand, I loaded up several "ladders" that consisted of 168SMK, 175SMK, 175VLD-H, and 178ELD-X. All respectable bullets. All were loaded using various weights of Varget power, and GM210M primers. All top shelf components. None of the loads were anywhere near max. In most, at least two full grains short. No over pressure signs.
I also shot a couple of factory loads, Hornady Black 168AMAX, and Federal Gold Medal Match. All reloads and factory ammo functioned flawlessly except the factory Fed GMM. It was not powerful enough to strip the next round from the magazine and closed on an empty chamber. "CLICK". The GMM did function flawlessly with the gun suppressed but the groups were terrible. All other groups were near or under 1 MOA for 5 shots. The best was the 178ELD-X that grouped .62" and clocked 2500 fps. It's a 20" barrel.
To the point: All cases except for the Hornady case will not go through my resizing dies. Even with the Hornady I really had to stand on the lever to get them sized. When I measured the fired cases, all dimensions were around a full .01" larger than factory new. A full hundredth. No way they are going through a die. Yes, I used multiple dies; Redding FL, Redding Type S, Redding Shoulder Bump, Forster FL, and Forster Bushing Bump. Not happening.
So the question: Can this be anything other than an extremely loose chamber?
I am going to contact the factory as soon as possible but, that may be impossible with most companies being flat on their butt "due to COVID".
Here is one of the better groups. The factory Hornady AMAX did just as well.
View attachment 205436