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E Lock or Dial
- Thread starter homewoodboy
- Start date
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The good S&G electronic locks are as reliable as a tumbler lock
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milo-2
Well-Known Member
??? Don't most dial locks open at 87 as you turn to the right?
milo-2
Well-Known Member
My first a dial, 2 & 3 electronic. One I don't go in much is a battery eater, other is solid. I have always had to look up the combo for the dial, and start direction. 6 number pin is easy.
Ckgworks
Well-Known Member
Correct.... I leave mine at 0 before the last number, so I turn to last number, and then back to 87. I should have been more clear. I don't do it all the time, but if someone bumps the dial it resets, so I think it's still fairly safe.
Dial I've been told if you were to knock the keypad off of the door cut the two wires going into the door and touch them to 9 V transistor battery the door will open therefore I will never own an electronic lock not to mention electrical trouble mechanical is more dependable
bigtuna431
Well-Known Member
I've had four large gun safes for several years. 3 e-locks and 1 dial. The dial is a PITA. Generally the good quality safe e-locks come with a key and can be manually opened if any failure of the electronics or battery.
jd palmer
Well-Known Member
I have 3 all have manual systems now,Electronic failure plus a locksmith no more electronic.
OK
you can't cut the leads to a keypad and touch a 9V battery to it to get it open
I hate that some here have had a bad locksmith experience...safe drill bits are carbide or diamond tipped for the most part. You can also use a concrete bit like the type you use in a hammer drill...not the ones that look chrome plated. That is about all you are going to be able to drill the Rockwell C-60 hard plate behind the interior lock parts in most of them with. There isn't a real need to drill anything larger than 1/4" to get the unit open in most cases. They are repairable to the original integrity or better. The only thing that is really torn up is the owners feelings
Dials on mechanical locks that open at 87 are usually key locking dials or key locking dials that there isn't a key cylinder in and they used a cover plate for the convertible dial. A standard dial (non key locking) generally stops at 96.
I like S&G for the most parts in both mechanical or electronic. Most of the better American locks are EMP resistant and many of the imported ones. S&G 6120 series can be drilled without penetrating the container depending on what the issue is.
The main thing that causes electronic failures is excessive pressure from the safe bolt work. Some are better at overcoming that when the lock has a part that manually retracts the safe lock bolt...very similar to the door bolt work handle. Some units have a small amount of pressure most of the time...when you couple that with all the excess loose stuff under the lower locking bolts and you close and lock the door with that big spoke handle you may never realize you are destroying your safe lock.
@SEGARE was there something else you wanted my to cover?
crashlanding
Well-Known Member
I've had my safe since the 80's, this lock has never failed me. A few years back, my wife wanted to know the combination to it and how to work the combo, for years, I had gotten so used to spinning the tumbler, I actually forgot how to rotate the number of times left and right, took awhile for me to figure it out, my wife thought I was just stalling for time as I didn't want her to know what was in there
Ckg is GTG...when you dial the 3rd # and start back to 0... is when your safe is left unlocked position... with the combination locking bolt not retracted...if someone slowly turns it back to 96 or 87 they are in.
