haftime
Well-Known Member
Carbon wrapped barrel, 300 RUM with a Ti can, fingers crossed. Did you see signs of pressure? I know I'm already on that jagged line.
Do silencers change a rifle's preferred load?
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med358-boise
Well-Known Member
I looked at this issue a different way:
1) Will I ever buy a new rifle?
2) Will I ever try new bullets?
if the answer to either of those is "yes", then I am going to do load development anyway. Therefore, adding a suppressor is really no different than buying a new rifle or trying new bullets.
Personally, I first start with powders and bullets that have a very good reputations for accuracy and research to see if there are "known good loads" for my cartridge. After that, I use the Optimal Charge Weight Method for load development. Using the preceding approach, I can have the load developed, confirmed, and the rifle zeroed in three range sessions or four at the most.
Granted, I don't shoot beyond 600 yards and I am satisfied with a sub .8 MOA group. I also don't worry about 100 fps in a velocity.
Sorry for the somewhat long winded and slightly off-topic answer, but many "challenges" in life can be mitigated by viewing the issue in a different light; i.e., don't worry so much about load development; embrace and improve your load development process.
1) Will I ever buy a new rifle?
2) Will I ever try new bullets?
if the answer to either of those is "yes", then I am going to do load development anyway. Therefore, adding a suppressor is really no different than buying a new rifle or trying new bullets.
Personally, I first start with powders and bullets that have a very good reputations for accuracy and research to see if there are "known good loads" for my cartridge. After that, I use the Optimal Charge Weight Method for load development. Using the preceding approach, I can have the load developed, confirmed, and the rifle zeroed in three range sessions or four at the most.
Granted, I don't shoot beyond 600 yards and I am satisfied with a sub .8 MOA group. I also don't worry about 100 fps in a velocity.
Sorry for the somewhat long winded and slightly off-topic answer, but many "challenges" in life can be mitigated by viewing the issue in a different light; i.e., don't worry so much about load development; embrace and improve your load development process.
Last edited:
Splitt
Active Member
I can only speak to my own experiences, of course.
Bought my first can (30 cal) two years ago (1 year wait sucked). I have used it on a 300BO AR and my .308. I've learned two things. First being is that my POI shifted 9 MOA when I pulled the break and put the can on my Savage 10. Second being is that it's like driving a really nice truck. Once you have used it, you won't want to go back.
If you decide to use it on your bolt system, use direct thread and just leave it after you do your load development. It's just easier in the long run. Direct thread will keep your position of the suppressor the same (more or less) every time you take it on and off for cleaning. I wanted to go this crazy route of buying muzzle devices that would make swapping between the two rifles easier, but my POI would shift every time I took them on and off, and not a little bit. It was a hard lesson to learn after a couple hundred dollars later. DT is also better because they like to loosen after several shots. Check it frequently. I also bought a pair of high temp grill gloves with silicone grips and a rubber belt wrench to tighten/remove it. Carbon buildup can make it difficult to remove. Depending on the material, they take a fair time to cool down.
You'll buy more, don't you worry. It's nearly as addictive as buying firearms itself. I have three now. The .22LR one is laughably quiet on the 10/22 and the pistol (sr22). Bought my first big boy pistol can (.45 cal) this summer. Now I'm considering buying another 30cal or maybe one that will cover up to .338 should I decide to get one. The $200 "could I have this daddy" tax is a pain and they are still pricy as hell, but I think of all the accessories I've bought for my rifles, this one is the most beneficial one I've ever used.
Sorry for the word salad and do enjoy suppressor use!
Bought my first can (30 cal) two years ago (1 year wait sucked). I have used it on a 300BO AR and my .308. I've learned two things. First being is that my POI shifted 9 MOA when I pulled the break and put the can on my Savage 10. Second being is that it's like driving a really nice truck. Once you have used it, you won't want to go back.
If you decide to use it on your bolt system, use direct thread and just leave it after you do your load development. It's just easier in the long run. Direct thread will keep your position of the suppressor the same (more or less) every time you take it on and off for cleaning. I wanted to go this crazy route of buying muzzle devices that would make swapping between the two rifles easier, but my POI would shift every time I took them on and off, and not a little bit. It was a hard lesson to learn after a couple hundred dollars later. DT is also better because they like to loosen after several shots. Check it frequently. I also bought a pair of high temp grill gloves with silicone grips and a rubber belt wrench to tighten/remove it. Carbon buildup can make it difficult to remove. Depending on the material, they take a fair time to cool down.
You'll buy more, don't you worry. It's nearly as addictive as buying firearms itself. I have three now. The .22LR one is laughably quiet on the 10/22 and the pistol (sr22). Bought my first big boy pistol can (.45 cal) this summer. Now I'm considering buying another 30cal or maybe one that will cover up to .338 should I decide to get one. The $200 "could I have this daddy" tax is a pain and they are still pricy as hell, but I think of all the accessories I've bought for my rifles, this one is the most beneficial one I've ever used.
Sorry for the word salad and do enjoy suppressor use!
