CVA Accura LR-X. Load Help

Since we're discussing the CVA Accura and ignition modules, I have a question. I came across this breech plug on Midway USA.
Guy in the reviews says it will ignite BH 209 without fail. I have also heard of Winchester Magnum shotshell primers. I have no experience with either of these products. Is there any chance this combo can produce the same results as the large rifle magnum primer conversion kits by Hankins and Arrowhead?
That breech plug actually just came with my Accura I got last week. I would say it's not going to perform the same. I got my Hankins today and after examining I can see why. The flash channel hole is larger, closer to the powder, and a magnum primer is igniting it. I can't speak to the arrowhead.
 
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Since we're discussing the CVA Accura and ignition modules, I have a question. I came across this breech plug on Midway USA.
Guy in the reviews says it will ignite BH 209 without fail. I have also heard of Winchester Magnum shotshell primers. I have no experience with either of these products. Is there any chance this combo can produce the same results as the large rifle magnum primer conversion kits by Hankins and Arrowhead?
In general ........... that is the replacement for shooting BH and .... IF ... the flash channel is kept clear of carbon buildup, it should go off every time. Its always been an issue with flash channels filling with carbon. It takes a 1/8" drill bit, turned by hand, to chip out the carbon. Some will chip it out after every 8 to 10 rounds. Others will do it when cleaning after a complete session. IF... it carbons up, you definitely have a high possibility of a MF or HF. It restricts the amount of flame to the main charge.

With the modules, once its setup properly, you're done. They do not leak like 209 primer setups can. No carbon buildup. Also the LRMP's will ignite BH even in the coldest weather.

Example: The rifle was loaded and exposed to -3°F for 21 hrs.

 
In general ........... that is the replacement for shooting BH and .... IF ... the flash channel is kept clear of carbon buildup, it should go off every time. Its always been an issue with flash channels filling with carbon. It takes a 1/8" drill bit, turned by hand, to chip out the carbon. Some will chip it out after every 8 to 10 rounds. Others will do it when cleaning after a complete session. IF... it carbons up, you definitely have a high possibility of a MF or HF. It restricts the amount of flame to the main charge.

With the modules, once its setup properly, you're done. They do not leak like 209 primer setups can. No carbon buildup. Also the LRMP's will ignite BH even in the coldest weather.

Example: The rifle was loaded and exposed to -3°F for 21 hrs.


This further solidifies what you have said:

 
Since we're discussing the CVA Accura and ignition modules, I have a question. I came across this breech plug on Midway USA.
Guy in the reviews says it will ignite BH 209 without fail. I have also heard of Winchester Magnum shotshell primers. I have no experience with either of these products. Is there any chance this combo can produce the same results as the large rifle magnum primer conversion kits by Hankins and Arrowhead?
I have been shooting an Accura for several years with the BH powder and yes the factory original breech plug will fail. A good friend and I figured out a way to make them work before they came out with the new breech plug designed for BH. Have one of them now and have never experienced a failure. Granted have never been through extreme weather with it either.
My first failure with the original breech plug happened when I was setting on the edge of a corn field one evening with a friend. A deer walked out about 100 yrds away. I pulled the trigger and basically all the happened was "poop". My buddy like to fell out of his chair laughing.. Memories!!!
 
I have been shooting an Accura for several years with the BH powder and yes the factory original breech plug will fail. A good friend and I figured out a way to make them work before they came out with the new breech plug designed for BH. Have one of them now and have never experienced a failure. Granted have never been through extreme weather with it either.
My first failure with the original breech plug happened when I was setting on the edge of a corn field one evening with a friend. A deer walked out about 100 yrds away. I pulled the trigger and basically all the happened was "poop". My buddy like to fell out of his chair laughing.. Memories!!!
I had an original Remington 700 ML, not the ultra version. I found out quick like during load workup that Blackhorn was a no go with it. It was also miserable to put the primer in and would fill the bolt firing pin and spring with corrosion. I started out with TC Hawkins kit rifles probably 40+ years ago. Built one for my wife and one for myself. We practiced a bunch and got pretty good with them. Used fff, round balls and patches. We did well in local competition but those round balls aren't great for deer hunting. :)
 
Got mine all together and will be out for range work this Saturday. Have .45 Caliber 280 ELR Powerbelts, and 195 and 250 tipped Powerbelts to test. I was fortunate to stumble into a local shop here that's stacked with some of the older .45 Powerbelts. Also secured 5 containers of BH209 at the old $38 price, still expensive as that's a half lb. A lot of reading and questions asked as well as some info sharing with @Timeout as we each assembled our rigs. I upgraded ignition system and rail on this. Forearm was a little caddywampus and need some straightening and work but it's all good now. I've got 3 months to figure it all out before my Coues deer hunt in November. I'll report back next week with my results.

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Recently bought one and have not been able to get it to shoot. Have tried the powerbelt ELRs, saboted shockwaves as well as 265 Fury's sized to bore. All with BH209 in charges from 85 gr to 100 gr by volume and CCI209M shotgun primers. Results have been 4" to 5". Using the factory 209 breech ignition. Fore stock binds on one side and is free floated on the other. I guess that will be my first adjustment and a scope swap just to rule that out. Only good thing so far is the .453 dia 265 gr Fury bullets shoot .75" groups with harvester sabots in my 50 cal Omega.
 
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Recently bought one and have not been able to get it to shoot. Have tried the powerbelt ELRs, saboted shockwaves as well as 265 fury's sized to bore. All with BH209 in charges from 85 gr to 100 gr by volume and CCI209M shotgun primers. Results have been 4" to 5". Using the factory 209 breech ignition. Fore stock binds on one side and is free floated on the other. I guess that will be my first adjustment and a scope swap just to rule that out. Only good thing so far is the .453 dia 265 gr Fury bullets shoot .75" groups witb harvestor sabots in my 50 cal Omega.
Did you remove your scope rail and remount it again? I took mine off which was hardly even torqued. On the underside of it was a layer of thick machining residue and crud that needed to be cleaned off. If I was a guessing guy I'd say the rail from the factory was torqued MAYBE to 10 inch pounds and had absolutely NO threadlocker on the screws. I actually put a new scope base on from EABrown, much better and more adjustment. I took my forearm and made adjustments to it and it fits perfect now. I'll let you know how Saturday goes.
 
Recently bought one and have not been able to get it to shoot. Have tried the powerbelt ELRs, saboted shockwaves as well as 265 fury's sized to bore. All with BH209 in charges from 85 gr to 100 gr by volume and CCI209M shotgun primers. Results have been 4" to 5". Using the factory 209 breech ignition. Fore stock binds on one side and is free floated on the other. I guess that will be my first adjustment and a scope swap just to rule that out. Only good thing so far is the .453 dia 265 gr Fury bullets shoot .75" groups witb harvestor sabots in my 50 cal Omega.
I recently purchased one also. I'm all in with it, so I hope it doesn't group like yours does. The forearm on mine was like yours. I contacted CVA and they shipped me a new one. It isn't perfect now, but real close. I'm going to tweak it just a bit. I replaced the factory rail with an EGW. I purchased a module ignition system from Arrowhead Rifles and have them loaded up with LR magnum primers. I have Thor .501" , 250 grain bullets on hand. The last piece of the puzzle before I can get to load development is the muzzle brake. I have a Harrell's Precision radial brake on the way here. Since I no longer have access to a lathe, I'm at the mercy of my gunsmith as to when he can get at it to bore it to size. Fingers crossed on accuracy. It will be a major disappointment if I can't achieve at least MOA to 200 yards.
 
Did you remove your scope rail and remount it again? I took mine off which was hardly even torqued. On the underside of it was a layer of thick machining residue and crud that needed to be cleaned off. If I was a guessing guy I'd say the rail from the factory was torqued MAYBE to 10 inch pounds and had absolutely NO threadlocker on the screws. I actually put a new scope base on from EABrown, much better and more adjustment. I took my forearm and made adjustments to it and it fits perfect now. I'll let you know how Saturday goes.

I did remove and torque the factory rail to 15 lbs with a touch of blue locktite at the time of setup. Will see what freeing up the fore end will do. Whatever is going on seems consistent, so I'm thinking its likely not a load or bullet preference issue. Will start with the fore end, as if it was a centerfire with such an uneven bind I'd expect some effect. One thing is when it came in it was particularly dirty, beyond what I'd expect from typical grease from new manufacture. I suspect it had been previously fired. I purchased it new from Midway. Hoping I'm not chasing somebody else's ghost.
 
I did remove and torque the factory rail to 15 lbs with a touch of blue locktite at the time of setup. Will see what freeing up the fore end will do. Whatever is going on seems consistent, so I'm thinking its likely not a load or bullet preference issue. Will start with the fore end, as if it was a centerfire with such an uneven bind I'd expect some effect. One thing is when it came in it was particularly dirty, beyond what I'd expect from typical grease from new manufacture. I suspect it had been previously fired. I purchased it new from Midway. Hoping I'm not chasing somebody else's ghost.
Mine was also tested in the factory and the barrel was dirty. Exterior of rifle had a layer of oil type protectant on it. Barrels are made in Spain by Bergara and I imagine is the reason of heavy coating to protect when shipped.
 
Recently bought one and have not been able to get it to shoot. Have tried the powerbelt ELRs, saboted shockwaves as well as 265 Fury's sized to bore. All with BH209 in charges from 85 gr to 100 gr by volume and CCI209M shotgun primers. Results have been 4" to 5". Using the factory 209 breech ignition. Fore stock binds on one side and is free floated on the other. I guess that will be my first adjustment and a scope swap just to rule that out. Only good thing so far is the .453 dia 265 gr Fury bullets shoot .75" groups with harvester sabots in my 50 cal Omega.
You didn't mention having a muzzle brake, but I had one that was bored incorrectly for a centerfire rifle resulting in the groups opening up real large like yours are. I had the same brand/style brake installed onto the barrel and properly bored and my groups went back to small again.
 
You didn't mention having a muzzle brake, but I had one that was bored incorrectly for a centerfire rifle resulting in the groups opening up real large like yours are. I had the same brand/style brake installed onto the barrel and properly bored and my groups went back to small again.
Have not had a muzzle brake on it yet as I wasn't certain if it'd shoot the powerbelts or size to bore bullets. Figured I'd wait to see if I'd wind up shooting sabots where I could't use one anyway. Recoil wasn't terrible, although as much as I've shot it in testing a break would be nice.
 
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