Cooper removal in Rifle what works best

[Dosh]

I have always had good results with Wipeout mostly using it as a slow overnight and will use ammonia based at the range. Inside the garage mostly Bore Tech stuff. I'm not sure how you manage to get it all over the gun like that but I would suggest using a bore guide as the chamber, bolt, and raceways shouldn't have copper on them.

Bore guides, the forgotten tool. Mike Lucas has protected all my barrels for years.

 

[Hired Gun]

I always use bore guides. It ran back into the action storing it muzzle up in the safe.

 

[dok7mm]

I have rarely used the foam type cleaners and have never left them over night. BoreTech is all I've used over the last three years and don't ever leave a trace of it in the barrel. When a barrel is clean, I run a couple of patches with brake cleaner, dry patches, 2 oil patches and one dry + a dry patch before shooting.

HiredGun, those pictures said it all.

 

[Bullet bumper]

Those photos show lack of correct maintenance and incorrect cleaning operation not how good or bad any solvent may or may not be .
Anyone who leaves any solvent in the bore for 24 hours is inviting trouble .
All solvents should be washed out and neutralized with turps on patches and then dry patches . Never forget to do the chamber also and inside the lug recess with dental pads damp with turps but not dripping and then dry pads .
Then oil bore and chamber if not shooting again .
A good chamber guide seals of the chamber so you can just scrub the bore when cleaning between targets whatever . However some dry patches should go in with the guide removed to finish off to make sure no solvent is in and around the throat area .

 

[dmoon]

It is worse on blued guns than stainless. We used it for a couple years until we left it in some blued guns. Parkerized guns are really affected. We just don't leave many guns blued and 99% leave here with stainless barrels. Most blued actions we work on end up Cerakoted and nothing touches Cerakote. Here is a couple examples on Park and bluing. The first is a brand new parkerized Remington MLR. I chased brown patches for a week soaking overnight each time till we noticed this.





According to the can it said to store it with a light coat in the bore so once clean I put in the Accelerator and WipeOut foam. Then pushed a couple dry patches through. No oil.

Looked good going in.





Opened the bolt a couple weeks later to this.



​

One of our customers who we had built 7 rifles for him at that time called telling me his Bat action was all rusty. He had stored that one with WipeOut according to the instructions. Once we polished off the rust his bolt still shows pits on it. A few of his other rifles were damaged by it the same way. I contacted WipeOut, showed them the pictures and relayed all the stories and though it is easily recreated they continue to deny that this is possible. I returned what we had and they replaced it. The new stuff still did it. A few months later I was showing it to someone here in the shop and it was coming out of the can rusty. It was eating the can. Again WipeOut denied it. I can go on and on about WipeOut.

At the advice of Kirby Allen we switched to Bore Tech Eliminator products. No problems since. You can even cork the barrel and fill up and soak for a week with no troubles.

​

Those are good pictures; however, they bring a couple of questions to mind for me. 1) Where you using a bore guide, and if so what kind? and 2) What process did you use to clean the chamber out when you were done?

I have been using wipeout for as long as I can remember (10+ yrs) and have never seen anything like that, I'm not saying anyone else should use it by the way, I'm just trying to learn. I did see where the foam type from the aerosol cans would leak around the O-rings and drip down into the magazine and cause a nasty mess to clean up. I have never seen it rust anything even when left in for weeks at a time (hate to admit, but I've done that multiple times). I have since switched to its liquid type that you "jack" through to work it in. This type almost never leaks past the o-ring and is much easier to keep contained. I would recommend to anyone interested in wipe-out to use the liquid style, not the foaming type.

Just in case anyone is interested I have been using Sinclair o-ring style bore guides for longer that I have been using wipeout.

 

[Hired Gun]

I use the Pro Shot universal bore guide system with the solvent port. I have different ones for different actions. Bore Guide for .22 Centerfire - .30 Cal. Short and Long Action

The rest of the questions are all answered in my post.

 

[Predator 22]

I have been using wipe-out for probably ten years now. Never had any problems like in the previous posts.
My cleaning process starts with carb-out, soak for five minutes then a few dry patches. Then wipe-out with accelerator, let that soak for a few hours to overnight. A few dry patches then a patch of kroil followed by two dry patches and a large patch or mop with brake clean in the chamber. I'm going to have to try bore tech with all the good things I'm hearing. When I get home I'm going to do some experimenting with some carbon steel and wipe-out to see if I can replicate the rusting.

 

[Bullet bumper]

Look at the metalwork on the gun in the images it shows total lack of correct maintenance . I have a 100 year old action that looks better than that .
If you don't clean an oil properly it will rust .

 

[Hired Gun]

Wow, you are good. Yep, that's the real reason

lack of correct maintenance and incorrect cleaning operation.

In just a couple pictures you know me and the history of these guns. You must be some kind of psychic or something. Makes me wonder how I seem to have a never ending 2 year backlog.

 

[Boe]

Hired Gun,
Is that really necessary? There are some very experienced guys on this forum that help other shooters with less experience solve problems and pass along information. That is the purpose of this forum.
It seems that anyone that tries to help you resolve issues and you disagree with, you launch an attack. Your inexperience in this profession shows. You would be well versed to to start listening and stop putting others down on this forum.

Richard Hilts
Hilts Custom Rifles

 

[Hired Gun]

Richard, you got that completely backwards. He launched two attacks against me and it's all I can do to turn the other cheek. He really didn't deserve the dignity of a response. But he kept at it. Rather than retaliate it was a weak attempt to make light of it. Did not intend to put anyone down.

 

[DartonJager]

I didn't read every reply so forgive me if my advice is redundant
Based on my first hand experience if you need your bore cleaned ASAP I can recommend

Bore damage from solvent looks like a real light glass bead blasting. It removes the shine that is natural in a lapped bore. It causes the barrel to be more prone to fouling.

Wipe Out is a fine solvent but never leave it overnight. In a CM barrel it will have you chasing your tail with an endless pile of brown patches. That is rust. In blued actions is collects in the barrel threads and orange rust will appear. On stainless guns it just leaves pits like any other ammonia based solvent will. I have seen several Bat and Defiance actions with severely pitted bolt bodies. Best to neutralize it with a couple oily patches and wipe down anywhere it has touched.

Never seen any issue with Bore Tech Eliminator solvents. I frequently leave those in overnight for really dirty barrels.

HG, correct me if I'm wrong but am I to understand your above post you are claiming Wipe-Out is ammonia based and I'm quite certain it is Ammonia free, been using Wipe-Out and Wipe-Out accelerator for 10+ years and it has worked superbly for me better than Butches, Cr-10, or Bore-tech yes it's slower but after a soaking or 2 all I use is less than 15 patches total for 2 soakings and I'm done use it in both sst and cm barrels never a single issue with rust and yes in the case of 2 badly badly fouled cm rifles my 6.5×55 and my Marlin LAs in 35 Remingtons that my boys shoot high numbers of plinking reloads out of I have repeatedly let Wipe-OUT soak in their CM barrels for 6-8 hours and never had any rust issues.
Not trying to argue just my experience is directly opposite of yours.

 

[DartonJager]

I'm not saying Wipe-Out is the best bore cleaner in existence but for me I prefer it over all others because it is nearly effortless to use, requires no no bore scrubbing or use of bore brushes is extremely economical in I use 80-90% fewer patches has no horrible smells that permeates my home and PO's everyone and it works great and lastly I have learned that if I limit my soak time and control how much copper I remove as some of my rifles shoot better fouled than squeaky clean
How much better/simpler/effortless and economical can gun cleaning get than first I get my rifle level in its holder I use one patch to pre soak with WO/accelerator then fill with foam and plug both ends, let sit 2-6 hours depending on fouling then 6-10 patches and my barrel is cleaned and oiled ready for the range or long term storage
IMHO there are solvents that work faster and possibly better but none are cheaper or require less effort than Wipe-Out
I also strongly believe that the fewer times you have to push a cleaning rod down your barrel the better and 10x with Wipe-Out vs 100 with other traditional cleaners has to be be at least reasonable gain.
Just my .2C worth

 

[dmj]

As recommend by a gun smith that built a rifle for me several years ago, I use butches then after I'm done cleaning run a patch through it with a lite coat of hoppes no. 9 and leave it. Was advised that didn't need to run a patch through before shooting next time. I usually do run a patch through before firing. Don't have a bore scope. Any comments?