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Completed AR10 Builds (6.5 Creedmoor)
- Thread starter C.O. Shooter
- Start date
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I notice a lot of wmd bcg comments. I have their bcg and they have never failed me. Also have a forged "BEAST" matching upper and lower (AR-15). Really like the nib-x on nib-x lubricity. chambered in 6mm arc. Barrel is an 18" oden works and shoots way better than I do. +2 gas system haven't quite got the gas block adjusted exactly yet. Only potential change would be one of those jp silent capture buffer spring setups. Have never used one and would like to try it out.
Other than not having the cheese grater sound they're not that special. I have 4 or 5 on 10's and 15's. Those beast uppers and lowers are heavy! I like the 2 I have.
cheese-grater sound is caused by 2 things (talking about carbine set-ups):
1. buffer spring rubbing against residual machining marks on inside of buffer tube
2. spring rubbing against the buffer-bumper roll-pin that's sticking out on one side (proud) of the buffer body.
if you use a quality buffer tube that is smooth as a baby's butt on the inside, and you apply a very light coat of wheel-bearing grease (or equiv) to the buffer spring and inside of buffer tube, that solves #1. I use the Aero enhanced buffer tube, the inside is very very smooth, mirror-smooth, with some synthetic grease.
for the roll pin that's sticking out, if possible, using a punch, make it flush. it it's slightly too long, then use a file to make it flush. Put a very light coat of wheel-bearing grease (or equiv) on the outside of the buffer body, reassemble.
I've been doing this for years for all my AR's (AR-10's, and AR-15's), no cheese-grater sound, no "sproing".
FWIW, JMHO, YMMV.
The sound doesn't bother me as more of a gimmick to sell more parts.
Which type of grease...moly or the red (forgot what it called) or maybe some lubraplate?
i'm using synthetic red wheel bearing grease from a grease-gun tube, because that's what I have laying around in the garage. I wouldn't use moly for this application, since it's not a high-pressure application.
Amzoil synthetic multi-purpose grease, NLGI#2. I don't think the brand makes any difference.
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Get you a bottle of this crap. $9 and great for buffers/springs, slides, bolts and similar interacting parts
- Joined
- May 15, 2012
- Messages
- 47
First I've seen of this recommendation.. pretty slick choice
You'll hate me at first, then when you figure out a little goes a long long way, you'll appreciate the product.
Reminds me of Brian Enos slide glide
As for machining inside the buffer tube I might run a bore hone (you know the dingleberry kind
). It'll get rid of the flatwire noise also.
As for machining inside the buffer tube I might run a bore hone (you know the dingleberry kind
Being deaf has its advantages
TRG65
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2017
- Messages
- 462
Have used a silent capture for years in 223. Then I got one when got an AR10i have used it for a couple years but have switched back to the traditional spring. Same thing with my 6ARC. I tried a silent capture but have gone to a traditional setup. I found it made both of those rifles very finicky for chambering and cycling. Going back to traditional springs have removed the problems.
Munch
Well-Known Member
Slide Glide was a bit too sticky and messy for me. Plus does not like <32F/0C temps.
I use Shell "ShellAero 22" grease due to its extreme temperature range. We used it down range where temps were at the extremes. It's very expensive and best to spread out amongst a lot of friends (if you don't have an airplane).
Umbrella Corp sells very small quantities of AeroShell 33. A $6 small container (or two) will last a very long time.
