Complete annealing?

What I have found with annealing is that unless you anneal after every firing and work your load up doing this, it takes one firing on each case to get back to where you were accuracy wise before annealing . I have used carbon lube in the neck and still had to get one firing on each case before I was back to where I was accuracy wise. JME
Thanks for sharing your experience. It gives me something more to think about. How many firings do you do in between annealing?
 
Thanks for sharing your experience. It gives me something more to think about. How many firings do you do in between annealing?
I had been doing appx 5 . But now I will decide if to do it at all or wait till I see problems or do it after every firing and work the loads that way.. I find the same takes place when I tumble but to a lesser degree. I guess before I come to final decision I will test more. Where I have seen this happen is in both my 6mm BR's and my PPC. Brass used is Laupa and Norma.
 
Listening to this it sounds like y'all think the only way to anneal is with the AMP or not at all!!?? I anneal after every firing using the EP machine and use the glow method. I've got brass on 15 reloads and many loads that run in very low single digit SDs. Is it perfect, no. Is anything in the reloading process perfect, no. We all have our processes and I'll stick with my proven method. Just be safe and do what works best for you. Using the EP machine allows me to control the flame in a couple of ways and allows me to control the timing exactly the same in each piece. I usually sacrifice 5 pieces of brass as testing/setup brass to get the timing right. Watch the tutorial videos on the EP site as he gives some great advice regardless of which flame machine or process you use. Anyways….. good luck and hope you find what works best for you. Happy Turkey day gents.
 
@JAYgs8163 "Should be around 750 as soon as the neck begins to glow if I remember correctly."
That sounds right, thank you for the reminder. Once it glows its annealed. Propane torch annealing works just fine. I use a hand drill with mine, 1in flame, dark room, 6 seconds rotating and it starts to glow and remove. I can tell the process works because my shoulder bumping stays accurate and consistent within a few thou. Without it was all over the place, even full length sizing unannealed.
 
Time depends on the brass maker and cartridge also. ADG and Lapua seem to take a little longer for me. Just depends.
These annealing conversations are almost funny. They almost all sound alike and almost every time I start doing my own internet homework. I found these following links that might add something to the conversation. I think if you copy and paste the text into your web browser, it should take you to the correct locations.



 
Same here. I use a EP Integrations machine. One of the best $230 I've spent in my shop.
I could be inclined to give one of these a try. They seem to be a little better in price than most of these type units that are available. I got to watch my money though. Been spending more than usual going to my shooting and reloading. Can anybody relate? I also been looking putting the money down for a K&M expanding mandrel kit. I may have to decide which I would rather have.
 
I could be inclined to give one of these a try. They seem to be a little better in price than most of these type units that are available. I got to watch my money though. Been spending more than usual going to my shooting and reloading. Can anybody relate? I also been looking putting the money down for a K&M expanding mandrel kit. I may have to decide which I would rather have.
Heck yeah I can relate. Seems like UPS is at the door every other day. The EP works like a champ and is so simple to setup. Anyways….
 
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