Cleaning Primer Pockets

[Wado]

I adapted my Wilson Trimmer to run a uniforming tool, after using it I would say the Sinclair tool would be a better choice. I used a Hornady adjustable uniforming tool and getting the depth set wasn't easy. It does work but a brush or running your brass in the pins is way easier. I don't know if squaring the bottoms of the pockets is worth the risk of a low primer if you cut too much. I made the driver out of brass and to use it just turn the case holder backwards and let it float in the trimmer, I hold it down with my fingers. I tried locking it but if there is a slight misalignment you have to force the cutter into the pocket so I leave it loose and rotate the holder until the cutter enters the pocket and give it a couple of turns. I did a test on some small primer brass (.223) and in order to get the bottoms cleaned up and completely square I was hitting the max depth of .1230. I seated some primers and they sure looked short, like I said this set up is hard to adjust. I was doing my measuring with my calipers so it may not be all that accurate. If all your brass was trimmed EXACTLY the same you could set the cutter out and used the length of the case to gauge the depth by using the micrometer on the trimmer.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Surprised to hear that anyone has had a problem with the Sinclair pocket uniforming tool. I use the non-adjustable carbide tool and have never had a problem. I use it to clean the pockets every time until the brass is spent. The only loose pockets I've noticed are from repeated heavy loads in magnum rifles.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Surprised to hear that anyone has had a problem with the Sinclair pocket uniforming tool. I use the non-adjustable carbide tool and have never had a problem. I use it to clean the pockets every time until the brass is spent. The only loose pockets I've noticed are from repeated heavy loads in magnum rifles.

Same here.

 

[J E Custom]

The Sinclair tool I'm talking about has a fixed depth and no cutters in the sides. I don't see how it's possible to widen the pockets w it. Here:
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...r-kit-with-screwdriver-adaptor-prod36760.aspx

Width is not the only area that can be affected if a cutting type primer pocket tool is used improperly. proper depth is very important to get uniform ignition from the primer because differing depths can change the primers Brisance (Heat).

Any tool that can/does remove brass from the sides or bottom can do damage if used improperly.

This type of tool is very necessary when using brass with the crimp or when the pocket is not the correct depth (Hence the name "Uniformer" ) but it is not necessary to remove powder fouling and other less risky methods can be used to lengthen brass life.

Again: there is nothing wrong with using these tools for carbon removal as long as they are used correctly and care is taken not to remove any brass.

J E CUSTOM

 

[wv270wsm]

I use a stainless brush on a dremel tool it cleans them right out and have never had an issue

 

[huntxtrm]

I use a stainless brush on a dremel tool it cleans them right out and have never had an issue

That's what I use, sort of. I use plastic coated Stainless cable from home depot, cut into 1" pieces, then trim just the end of the plastic off. Works great.

 

[huntxtrm]

I find that the pocket cleaners don't get all of it and it builds up so I use the sonic cleaner which makes them nice and shiny.

I cant seem to get my sonic cleaner to cut the crud out of the pockets very well? That's why I brush. What type of cleaner do you use? I use a hornady, with Hornady juice. Is there something that works better?

 

[jrock]

I just use the vinegar, soap, hot water approach and run it for about 15 to 20 min. I have a larger cleaner from HF. Smaller batches clean faster and better. For short action cases, I stand them up on end and they clean much better. Most of the time, the primer pockets come out pretty clean (cleaner than with a typical primer pocket cleaner). For some stubborn cases, quick twist with a q-tip gets them spotless clean.

 

[huntxtrm]

I just use the vinegar, soap, hot water approach and run it for about 15 to 20 min. I have a larger cleaner from HF. Smaller batches clean faster and better. For short action cases, I stand them up on end and they clean much better. Most of the time, the primer pockets come out pretty clean (cleaner than with a typical primer pocket cleaner). For some stubborn cases, quick twist with a q-tip gets them spotless clean.

what kind of mix of vinegar/soap/water do you use. That sounds lots cheaper than hornady case cleaner. And, if it works better, I'm in.

 

[jrock]

I don't know if it works better as I've never bought any case cleaning solution off the shelf.

I use a 1:1 vinegar water solution with about 10 drops of Dawn soap. I have a heat setting on mine and I run that one cycle (5 min) to warm it up and then run it without heat for the rest of the time.

 

[wv270wsm]

There is a lot of different liquid brass cleaning solutions you can run across. Just be sure that you DO NOT use any ammonia or any product that's has it in it. Ammonia will cause the cases to weaken very rapidly

 

[excaliber]

I use an ultrasonic cleaner for my brass. Half or more of my primers pockets come out spotless but many of them need a paper towel edge pushed into them and turned to completely clean them out. Is it needed? I don't know but at least I feel good about my brass prep.

 

[jsthntn247]

Deprime it, anneal, throw it in corn cob overnight. You fellas are waisting family time. Has anybody ever run a test with clean and dirty pockets to see if one out shoots the other? I have.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Deprime it, anneal, throw it in corn cob overnight. You fellas are waisting family time. Has anybody ever run a test with clean and dirty pockets to see if one out shoots the other? I have.

What did you discover?