Cast bullets in a 10mm auto

[alaska]

11.6 of AA9 with 200s that's a very light load !
350 CCI primers
You should be up around 13.8 of AA9

I think using uncoated lead bullets these days is kind of silly. You can buy the kits and do it yourself if you want to cast your own but at the prices they charge (Missouri Bullet Co, & Acme Bullets off hand, there are others) it's not worth my time to even fire up the lead pot these days!

I got some of the MBC coated 140 LSWC gr bullets to try in my Glocks 29 and 40 (10mm) and they worked just fine. 6.0 of WW231 barely worked the actions (I have heavier springs in both pistols) but 6.5 to 7.5 worked perfectly. MBC says these bullets can be fired at up to 1500 fps so you can use other powders to get higher velocities if desired. Both are stock barrels and have shown zero leading. I also use the coated bullets in .45 and 9mm, again with zero problems. I've shot a bunch of lead 115 gr 9mm bullets thru my Glock 26 without any problems as well... BUT! You have to stop shooting after the first 50 rounds and visually inspect the barrel for leading and every 50 or so rounds after that to be certain. If you have any leading at all, just fire 6 rounds of jacketed ammo to smooth it out! Shooting jacketed *does not "blow the lead" out of the barrel* but it just smoothes it out so it's not a problem, pressure wise. If you get any leading in the first 50 I recommend either not shooting lead at all or using a barrel smoothing kit such as the Nico kit before using any more lead. My Glock 26 barrel simply does not lead much at all and I've shot as many as 250 rounds in a session without problems. But remember, every barrel is unique and some simply won't tolerate lead bullets at all, period! Even hard cast can cause some leading. For these barrels you're stuck loading jacketed or at least plated bullets. Fortunately, these barrels are far and few between!
If shooting lead bullets out of your Glock, just check it often and it's perfectly safe. If you end up with lumps you didn't check often enough and need to stop and clean the barrel with a bronze brush (the only thing, other than abrasives such as JB Bore Cleaner) that will actually get the lead out of the barrel. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SHOOT LUMPS SMOOTH! That's where you're likely to blow your pistol into pieces... and maybe your hand! The only chemical cleaner that actually works is the Outers Foul Out electro plating kit. I have tried every other chemical that says it will remove lead and they all flat out lie! Mostly they rely on a layer of copper under the lead. If your barrel is clean, it's a waste of time and money!
Cheers,
crkckr

Bronze Wool around soft brush and lead remover works very well in removing lead from barrels.

 

[KyCarl]

If I really need my 10MM cost isn't an option! I carry mine full of 150 gr. Xtreme Hunter from Underwood!

10mm Auto 150gr. Xtreme Hunter Solid Monolithic Hunting & Self Defense Ammo

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[Old Rooster]

Vincemule told me about bronze wool trick.
I had a 300 weatherby that was so full of carbon the rifle would no longer shoot well.I tried wipe-out and no luck,all ammonia products and no luck.
Tried the bronze wool on a worn bristle brush and jb bore paste and gone in 10 minutes.I fully expect it will take out lead as well!
Thanks alaska for reminding me of that.

 

[41mag]

I have several molds for my 10's which run fro around 175gr up to around 220gr. I don't have to worry about bears so anything in the 180 - 200gr work just fine. I really like to run HP's for just about any occasion. Luckily when I was working up my alloy for my revolvers, the same alloy works just fine in the 10mm as it is in about the same general velocity range. IF I had to use it for a SD situation it would do just fine. I wouldn't want to touch one off in the house though, I have much better things there though.

I use AA-9 almost exclusively in my loads which range from 11.5 up through 13grs, usually lit off with a CCI primer. Sometimes I will run AA-7 for the lighter weight bullets but only on rare occasions. Mostly I use MP or NOE molds as they both produce a bullet design I like, and secondly they usually offer either a mold which has couple of HP and a Solid pin or just the solid version. Most if not all of mine are plain base as I haven't really found a great need for the GC with my handgun loads. I have molds which require them in other calibers just not in any of my auto feeders.

I shoot mostly conventional lubed bullets but do powder coat some on occasion. When I do I usually make up a batch of 3-500 so it all gets done in one sitting. As for the conventional lubed they get lubed and loaded as needed.

I also do not quench anything I pour. I went through several revolvers and while testing loads and bullets, I found it just wasn't needed. I'm running air cooled in everything up to 454 Casull which is a 300gr GC RNFP. Even with those though I started off just using the Lee alox and then went to White Label 45-45-10. Nowadays I just run them through the sizer and slather in a band of Carnuba Red and run with it.

My 10mm loads run mid 1300's out of the longer barrels for both the 180's and 200's. I don't shoot many of the 200's due to the above mentioned slide slamming, but the 180 and 195's run just fine. If it breaks well it's a Glock, I'll get another one. I mainly got it to ride the tractor with in case I just up a hog or two. It usually rides in a Kenai rig for ease of access and I also carry while bowhunting.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

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I also do not quench anything I pour. I went through several revolvers and while testing loads and bullets, I found it just wasn't needed. I'm running air cooled in everything up to 454 Casull which is a 300gr GC RNFP. Even with those though I started off just using the Lee alox and then went to White Label 45-45-10. Nowadays I just run them through the sizer and slather in a band of Carnuba Red and run with it.

The only reason I quench my bullets is I don't like egg shaped bullets and have found that quenching in cool water tends to make a rounder bullet. I do use wheelweight lead for the most part, so even a quenched bullet really isn't overly hard.

 

[Old Rooster]

I'm gonna try just air cool and see what happens.
I can control the roundness by running each bullet through a sizer.I still need to see 18-22 BH for hard cast but just shooting bullets I can go much lower.