westcliffe01
Well-Known Member
You keep on doing what your doing and posting how you can't get your optics to line up....
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Cant get zero'd..?
- Thread starter Sully2
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Broz
Well-Known Member
Just trying to help you out by sharing factual info. I would hate to guess how many rifles I have set up for long range with canted rails of many brands.
My head might be in the sand, but even with it there I seem to hit my targets. Hate to say where your head must be.
Sorry I replied now, have a great day using your subpar equipment of choice. Enjoy that few dollars you save with your rails. Lets see, a quality rifle that cost $$, a quality scope that cost $$, lets marry them together with chewing gum. Yup, my head is in the sand. LMAO
bigngreen
Well-Known Member
Ya, their known for their poor quality but great price! I've had two rifles that were shooting poor in the last month and both had EGW rails crap out, fortunately the screws are of such poor quality that they don't mess up the actions and I can use quality screws and bed the rails carefully and save them for the customer but in the end he could have used a quality rail the first time and the gun would have never seen me.
westcliffe01
Well-Known Member
Broz, you missed the almighty disclaimer that the OP slipped in...
"If its a true 20 MOA rail as mine is supposed to me" (I assume he meant "be")
Now my dad taught me the value of "if" with the following line...
"If your aunty had balls, .... she would be your uncle."
EGW products are for the tacticool wannabees who have already spent all their cash on the AR-15 that they waited until Jan 2013 to buy. Who now can only afford $30 for a rail to mount their red dot sight. Usually, one can get a red dot at 1x sighted in on one of those rails, but for your long distance rifle, you should rather leave them be. Or else just entertain the rest of us...
"If its a true 20 MOA rail as mine is supposed to me" (I assume he meant "be")
Now my dad taught me the value of "if" with the following line...
"If your aunty had balls, .... she would be your uncle."
EGW products are for the tacticool wannabees who have already spent all their cash on the AR-15 that they waited until Jan 2013 to buy. Who now can only afford $30 for a rail to mount their red dot sight. Usually, one can get a red dot at 1x sighted in on one of those rails, but for your long distance rifle, you should rather leave them be. Or else just entertain the rest of us...
Sully2
Well-Known Member
Like many people I tried the shortest, easiest route and of course...it didnt work! Hence I finally ordered a new rail of ZERO MOA and no reason what it wont. Of course according to some I bought the cheapest *** on the market and will try and get by with it....
BTW...if you dont care for my procedure and posting about it...DONT READ IT!
Well, I must agree with Broz and others, I have used the EGW HD mounts with no issue in the past (2 rifles) but in going to this regular 15 MOA mount to try and shave a slight bit of weight it's trash. The mounts is way more than 15 MOA, more like 25-30. After mounting in a new Seekins 0 MOA base I was able to calculate roughly. I will say that Winchester actions have tended to need bedding of the scope mount for me in the past. I'm happy to report I like the quality and fit of the Seekins.
Sully2
Well-Known Member
You can all pile on and trash ME and the equipment I buy all ya want. I'll just keep my findings to myself and the hell with ya all.!
Broz
Well-Known Member
bigngreen
Well-Known Member
westcliffe01
Well-Known Member
Sully, the only consistent thing with EGW is that it does not meet the specification. Its an old story. The take away from your story is that your time must be worthless to keep messing with the same sub standard stuff.
I got an EGW rail on a used Rem 700 that I bought and it did not take me long before I figured out what a *** it was and I swore blind that I would never support a company that paid such lip service to quality again. It also happens to be the reason why I sold all the Remington rifles I had and will never buy one again until something has clearly changed. TC is another company on the list after the way they handled issues with the Icon that I bought.
To me, to spend between $90 and $120 for a one piece rail made out of steel, is probably more than it should be, but a fraction of the equipment that will mount to it. My time is worth something, so the product needs to do what it says it does. A 20 MOA rail needs to be 20MOA, not 10 and not 30 and certainly not +- 100% of the stated tilt. A company who routinely sells product with such wide deviation does not deserve our time or money and certainly not loyalty.
Why is it that you are defending the only product in that assembly which does not do the job it is supposed to ?
I got an EGW rail on a used Rem 700 that I bought and it did not take me long before I figured out what a *** it was and I swore blind that I would never support a company that paid such lip service to quality again. It also happens to be the reason why I sold all the Remington rifles I had and will never buy one again until something has clearly changed. TC is another company on the list after the way they handled issues with the Icon that I bought.
To me, to spend between $90 and $120 for a one piece rail made out of steel, is probably more than it should be, but a fraction of the equipment that will mount to it. My time is worth something, so the product needs to do what it says it does. A 20 MOA rail needs to be 20MOA, not 10 and not 30 and certainly not +- 100% of the stated tilt. A company who routinely sells product with such wide deviation does not deserve our time or money and certainly not loyalty.
Why is it that you are defending the only product in that assembly which does not do the job it is supposed to ?
MontanaMarine
Well-Known Member
Your problem is neither a mystery, nor unpredictable.
Basically you are bottomed-out on your erector and 4" high at 100 yards.
Your scope only has a total of 44 moa elevation travel, and you have it mounted on A 20 MOA base.
In a perfect world, you should be able to zero at 100 yards, and still have about 2 moa 'down' left in your erector, and about 42 moa 'up' available.
But, the world is far from perfect. Dimensional tolerances in your barrel/receiver mating, bore center, receiver bridge specs, rail specs, ring specs, and scope build specs, can all sometimes stack against you. This is most likely your situation.
Also, the total elevation travel in your erector, assumes mechanical zero for windage. If you had to apply windage to get horizontal zero, that robbed some of your elevation travel also.
EGW questionability aside, you simply don't have the right parts for a good melding. Right off the top, I'd look for a scope with 90+ moa, or equivalent mil, erector travel. More is even better. Then you will not be bottomed-out on a 20 moa rail. and you could probably got to a 30-45 moa rail and buy more useable erector travel, and still not be bottomed out.
Personally, I'm a fan of a SWFA 12X scope on a 45 moa base. It gives me more travel than I truly need, but the benefit is that even at the furthest distances I shoot, my erector is not even close to being topped out. That is a good thing, as many scopes get optically compromised at the very ends of the erector travel.
Sully2
Well-Known Member
Thanks much sir. Giving me proper input as compared to ruffling feathers telling me I buy and use junk equipment.
I know the Conquest has much less verticle travel than some...but the glass is SOOO good. Crystal clean. And since is has worked for me on Rem and Rem close actions I figured what the hell...
Ive got a zero MOA rail ordered and that should allow me to use my present scope on this model 70. Its a good scope with a good rifle and using a good caliber. I got my fingers crossed.
Thanks again.
westcliffe01
Well-Known Member
The alternative is adding a shim under the front of the one piece base to get zeroed with 5-10moa of down travel left. Then bed the front and rear of the rail to the action with gently snugged fasteners, and fully tighten after the bedding compound has set up.
That would be pretty close to the technique that Broz was referring to, considered "standard operating procedure" with some hardware. Keep an eye on those fasteners given it is a 300WM and try not to use a lead sled since it makes the loading of the scope mounting system that much more severe.
That would be pretty close to the technique that Broz was referring to, considered "standard operating procedure" with some hardware. Keep an eye on those fasteners given it is a 300WM and try not to use a lead sled since it makes the loading of the scope mounting system that much more severe.
MontanaMarine
Well-Known Member
With the zero moa rail, you should end up with 30-ish moa available. In reality that's probably enough to get you to 1000 yards. But if/when you want to push beyond the limits of your scope you will be looking for something with more travel.
Great glass is nice to have, but the elevation travel is a 'must have'. That's why I settle for 'serviceable' glass, but tons of elevation travel (43 mils/140 MOA), with the SWFA.
The beauty of the Nightforce is you have all the best of glass quality, travel, durable build, and other features. If it is in your budget, pretty tough to beat.
Shane
