Where to get a Mark V canted base?

[Autorotate]

I mounted an EGW 700 Long action base on a Mark V.

Did it "fit"...yep. Did the profile of mating surface of the base match the profile/curve of the action perfectly....nope.

I guess you could bed it with some Devcon to make it mate up perfectly.

It would be a shame to waste trips to the range, wasted components during load development, and your time, only to find out that a base that didn't match up to the action properly was one of the reasons for poor accuracy. Ask me how I know...

That EGW base now sits on top of a Sendero....and fits perfectly FWIW

 

[Tyler Kemp]

I may just bed a 700 base to the action then...if I put release formula on the action but not on the base all should be fine?

 

[JRu]

I measured my EGW rail for LA Vanguard. It matches the Rem700 LA measurements I found on the net perfectly. Starting from the rear, the hole spacing is as follows:

hole 1- hole 2: .600"
1-3: 5.085"
(3-4: .860" )
1-4: 5.945"

All my sources claim the "base to ring center" height for Rem700 to be shorter than on Vanguard / Mk V , and the gap can easily be bedded with epoxy, just tightening the front screw(s) and leaving the back floating. In fact it should always be done anyway IMO, I've bedded my Talleys and there's a considerable difference in shape versus factory new. When removed and reinstalled, the reticle ends up exactly where it was on the collimator grid, even when I just drop the scope into the (also lapped) rings.

I used release agent everywhere except the bottom of the Talleys. Add black dye, trim excess after 5-6 hours of drying, and they're pretty much perfect -- if it wasn't for the lack of taper.

I'm now contemplating ditching the Talleys for a Nightforce Rem700 Direct Mount ( 20 MOA ) as it should fit my Vanguard. There's just one thing I'd like someone with a Remington 700 to measure: The distance from the rearmost of the two front mounting holes, to the ejection port. The Direct Mount has a recoil lug there and I'm only worried it won't fit Vanguard:

If there's a gap on the Vanguard, I can bed it, but if I have to grind the lug away, I'll ruin any resale value in case it doesn't work out. So I'd appreciate if someone would check the measurement for me.

Hope this helps MkV owners as well.

 

[Tyler Kemp]

So if you screwed the front of the base down a bit harder into the epoxy and just lightly tightened up the rear screws, would you still have a canted base, albeit of unknown MOA specs?

 

[JRu]

When I bedded my two piece Talleys, I tightened them both all the way to stop and then backed off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I tried to avoid unnecessary stress but wanted all the contact they had when new, I was simply bedding them to fill in the voids.

If I put on a one piece base that was floating at the rear, I would only tighten the front screws and barely start the rear screws to keep threads open. If the front screws were tightened so the base had full contact at the front, it should align the base to hold the specified MOA taper.