Cant get zero'd..?

[Sully2]

With the zero moa rail, you should end up with 30-ish moa available. In reality that's probably enough to get you to 1000 yards. But if/when you want to push beyond the limits of your scope you will be looking for something with more travel.

Great glass is nice to have, but the elevation travel is a 'must have'. That's why I settle for 'serviceable' glass, but tons of elevation travel (43 mils/140 MOA), with the SWFA.

The beauty of the Nightforce is you have all the best of glass quality, travel, durable build, and other features. If it is in your budget, pretty tough to beat.


Shane

The $$ for one isnt any problem....but I have looked thru several Nightforce scopes ( and some other brands too) and all I can see is the "hash marks" for elevation and windage adjustents...etc. If they has for example a thick crosshair that when dialing in elevation would seperate and two thiner cross hairs would show the "zero" elevation and the moving cross hair the needed elevation impact point...Id have one in a minute. But none do as far as I have seen.

Im never going to try and hit something on the other side of the moon as some on this BB try and brag about but with my rifles and the scopes I have on them and the calibers....Im good to about 600 yards and thats a FUR PIECE down the road.

I cant find what Id like in a March or an S&B or a Swaro...etc.

 

[Barrelnut]

Im good to about 600 yards and thats a FUR PIECE down the road.

Was wondering what distances you needed to reach, Sully. Why not scrap the rail altogether and use some Talley lights? Might get the scope down lower that way for better cheek weld, etc. for 600 yards with a 300 WM, probably only need 10-11 MOA to get there.

I would also consider the Burris Signature rings, that way you can add as much MOA as you would like, 10 MOA for example, and have the scope almost centered at 600 yards. Plus, if there are any windage adjustment issues, they could be corrected as well.

 

[MontanaMarine]

....but I have looked thru several Nightforce scopes ( and some other brands too) and all I can see is the "hash marks" for elevation and windage adjustents...etc. If they has for example a thick crosshair that when dialing in elevation would seperate and two thiner cross hairs would show the "zero" elevation and the moving cross hair the needed elevation impact point...Id have one in a minute. But none do as far as I have seen...........

Well, I've never heard of a scope with a moving crosshair. Once you apply elevation to your erector, your crosshair intersection is your point of aim (plus wind hold or windage turret input).

What you describe sounds similar to the Burris Eliminator scope. It lights up a reticle holdoff point, based on lased range and BC/velocity inputs.

 

[BergerBoy]

EQUIPMENT:
Win model 70 in 300 Win Mag caliber
Zeiss 6.5-20 Conquest
EGW rail
Warne mounts in medium height

Now... Everything is installed and when I go to zero the scope out I get it down to the line that says 4" at 100 yds and not below that line? It starts out at about..??..20" below and comes up but in this case doesnt come up enough? What gives?

Right offhand I says its too tall of a rearbase...but its only a medium. I have used medium rings on previous 15 MOA and 20 MOA rails and they worked fin but this is my first Win model 70.

Anyone got any hints or clues??

Your base is too high. You need a 0 MOA. There is only 45 MOA with that scope and if you have a slight cant in the action it will be too much. That scope comes with some info about this subject.

 

[Sully2]

She zero's out now.!!!

Got my zero degree rail from EGW last night in the mail. Slapped it on the m70 and torqued the screws down...whipped that scope on with its Leupold DQ rings and sat back and looked. Darned if it aint in the right place!!

This weekend or early next week the range wont be so crowded and I'll get to it and nail her down right.

Thanks a heap fellas!

 

[Sully2]

FINALLY....I got time to stuff the bore sighter in the barrel and get the scope close enough. Im dead on vertical and "about" 1/2" left of center in the horizontal. Ive got to wait till I can get to the range and get on a solid bench and bagged down good and bring it finally into line....geeze!

Im glad you guys gave me lots of helpful hints and helped me get my head on straight.

Sully